ok so when i am finally ready to start my built h22 for the first time i have a couple questions. the person whos gonna be tunning it told my to just throw everything on including the injectors and break it in and tune it on the dyno. now the people building the motor told me i have to drive it around for a bit with stock injectors or the rings will go bad or something. so im confused? also what kind of oil should be in the motor the first start up? main problem being thoe, i wana get my car tunned on ectune and i wouldnt even be able to get a base map for the stock injectors. so im at a stop. my original plan was to throw everything on, start the car to make sure there are no leaks or anything. and just have it towd to the tuner. but then another problem comes into play. my previous tune was for a stock block with dsm 450 injectors so im thinking if i try to start the car with the 1000's on the tune for 450 it would flood. ok any advice or help is very appriciated. thanks!

 

if you have the capacity to break it in on stock stuff do it.

i didnt so i broke mine in with 1200's. 2 heat/fan cycles then put it on the dyno.

the base i had was juth that. i had to actually add fuel to keep it running. but kept an eye on the afr. no oil consumption. all good.

 

once the clearances are set they are just that SET.. no break in needed.. get it started set the dizzy timing... take it str8 to the dyno to tune it...

 

clearances aside, i think he is worried about ring wash. as was i. f.w.i.w. i break my engines in on straight 30 weight. then just run 10w30.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clearances aside, i think he is worried about ring wash. as was i. f.w.i.w. i break my engines in on straight 30 weight. then just run 10w30.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i understand that.... as long as it isnt a long period of time with the larger injectors he will be ok...

just get it started, timing set, no leaks get it tuned asap and you'll be good to go!

 

i just started my built h22a motor this weekend, 1000cc injectors, NA at the moment, made my own base map, idled at like 14.0 when i started it, should be ok as long as the AFR's arent way way out of wack... ive just been driving mine around as i street tune it screw the dyno...

 

where do i get strait 30 oil? any specific brand?

 

any auto parts.. get the cheap stuff and run the motor for 5-20mins... then change out the oil and filter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any auto parts.. get the cheap stuff and run the motor for 5-20mins... then change out the oil and filter </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup......
my shop supplier is just over a dollar a qt. it is the federated brand.

 

so i run this 30 weight oil with the turbo installed correct? thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any auto parts.. get the cheap stuff and run the motor for 5-20mins... then change out the oil and filter </TD></TR></TABLE>

on a fresh built motor it is "ideal" to have the motor start up in front of the tuner. he can dial in all the idle air fuel and get everything safe. after running change the oil and filter, and put it on the dyno, hit it with a ton of boost.

 

yeah but the tunner is about 40 mins from me. and i dont want to tow it there not knowing if the car even starts or not? my dilema.

so if i just start the car and let it run to make sure everything is ok. then shut it down change the oil and then tow it to the tunner and just throw it on the dyno?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerdbygarrett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if i just start the car and let it run to make sure everything is ok. then shut it down change the oil and then tow it to the tunner and just throw it on the dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes start it up.. set your timing etc.. air out out the system, idling ok.... after 10-20mins.. change out your oil... check out your plugs etc... tow it to your tuner

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes start it up.. set your timing etc.. air out out the system, idling ok.... after 10-20mins.. change out your oil... check out your plugs etc... tow it to your tuner</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i did.

 

what do u mean by set the timing and air out the system. sorry for sounding such a noob but im just new to the build engine part.thanks

 

You set the ignition timing with it idling using a timing gun and make sure all the air is bled out of the coolant system.You cna do this by running it with the cap off and watch it bubble the air pockets out and keep topping it up until its hot.I fired mine up on walmart oil let it idle while a tweaked the air fuel and then after it got hot about 15 minutes shut it down and changed the oil and filter.I like to cut the filter open and look to see if there is any big ugly pieces.Then re fill the oil add new filter and drove it up and down the road for 10-15 minutes cylcing the rpm up and letting off coasting it down in vacum.We then pulled back in changed the oil and filter again and raped it for all it was worth on 10psi.Motor has perfect compression

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90dxhmt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You set the ignition timing with it idling using a timing gun and make sure all the air is bled out of the coolant system.You cna do this by running it with the cap off and watch it bubble the air pockets out and keep topping it up until its hot.I fired mine up on walmart oil let it idle while a tweaked the air fuel and then after it got hot about 15 minutes shut it down and changed the oil and filter.I like to cut the filter open and look to see if there is any big ugly pieces.Then re fill the oil add new filter and drove it up and down the road for 10-15 minutes cylcing the rpm up and letting off coasting it down in vacum.We then pulled back in changed the oil and filter again and raped it for all it was worth on 10psi.Motor has perfect compression </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats when u get the biggest

 

should i use natural or synthetic strait 30 oil for the first start up?

 

that is up to the builder etc...

personally when i build a fresh motor i run it on Castrol GTX .... i like FULL syn oils for long term use like a motor that u know will see 100K etc...

 

we put our race engines through a heat cycle, change the oil, and proceed to make 800 + hp ..... NO break in !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaveF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we put our race engines through a heat cycle, change the oil, and proceed to make 800 + hp ..... NO break in ! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly...once all the initial crude from honing/building and dirt gets washed into the oil, change it and rape it. The cylinder pressures will force the rings to push against the hone to create the seal. A hone is there for that EXACT reason, so it can scrape the rings to fit exactly to the bore (cause we all know even a thousands of an inch isn't exact).