I'm getting a bare b18a block sleeved by golden eagle, I'm also putting in oil squirters and a girdle, along with je pistons, crower rods, gsr oil and water pump what else can I do to make this a rev happy 20+psi of boost motor.

 

anyone

 

ditch the oil squirter idea and you should be fine

 

and 3/8" Rod bolts. better head of course

 

i'm thinking ARP rod bolts and headstuds. i'll be using a pr3 portflow head

 

Are you getting the GE deckplate as well to support a longer rod for better piston speeds and r/s ratio?

 

too complicated. I've quelled my former search for combinations to produce the perfect R/S ratio. Its a good Idea-deck plate and all for good torque/hp balance.
But too much involved.
get the fatter Arp's. Girdle helps. the head'll flow from Portflow, Type R IN, maybe GSR EX.
It'll ride up high

 

I'm just worried that the bottomend won't get enough oil for some high reving passes. With the rod bolts and the girdle what else would be a weak point?

 

I am doing a ls/vtec as of today.

Almost done really just waiting on block and rods
Golden Eagle sleeves/deckplate
arias 83mm pistons
crower rods
gsr head
ferrea valve terrain
str camgears
camshafts stock for now
running a t4 60-1 as of now maybe move up to a 62-1.
goin in my crx.

hit me up on pm for more information.

 

what are your thoughts on knife edging the crank?

 

You wanna keep the motor as strong as possible...

No need in weakening it for mild gains. With a boost setup, more power is made from air\fuel. You dont need to scavange the power thats already there...like an all-motor setup.

Suprdave

 

I think that the regular LS block with no deck plate is good. 84 MM.

Very strong. The problem is not in the sleeves. All the aftermarket sleeves are strong. Notice the sleeves never fail, its always a bearing to spin, or a piston to melt.

Tuning your car to a perfect 12:1 Air/Fuel ratio will make your motor last the longest.

You don't need to spend a fortune on rods too, eagle rods or Probe rods will do the job to well over 700 WHP.

The LS/VTEC is proven. We hit almost 500 WHP at 17 PSI with one, and several others over 400 WHP easily. R/S ratio of 1.54.

You get a deck plate, its arguable your going to make it MORE UNRELIABLE.

Because the crank determines pistons speed like 99%+ not rod length. Longer rods means the crank has to push more mass...and longer rods means the powerband is going to get raised higher...

So at your peak HP, your actually going to have a HIGHER piston speed than with the stock block.

Not good. LS cranks vibrate at high RPM's. And thats how you blow up, they vibrate and you spin bearings...bye bye motor. And you paid all that extra money for all that deck plate stuff when you really did not need it.

Use stock deck, use GSR cams, set rev limiter at like 8200 and youll peak around 7700. Thats all you need. And then, my friend, youll have a reliable motor.

Deck plate = high RPM vibrating, high piston speed motor.

Its simple math. Nobody can argue mathmatics. Piston speed is VERY important, WAY more important than R/S ratio.

Jeff

 

My motor was not intended for the steet at firsts. but then it switched up 1/2 way through the build up. Does Probe sell rods for the deckplate?? I think eagle and crower are the only ones.

I still haven't got the crower rods, just decided between eagle and crower, better be safe and done right the 1st time.