Building an LS Head for boost

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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:24 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: (Nors)

yes, because the plentum and runners play a big roll in power and useable power band. I went from a Obd1 LS intake mani (WAY better then the Obd0 mani) to a STR intake mani and I picked up 4 mph with just mani change. PR4 Vs P75 was 2mph and after porting the P75 I picked up another 2 mph.

The intake mani is deffinaly something I would change and porting a P75 head would be just a bonus. But both are just as important, deffinaly if you are gonna take the time to port the head. if your trying for only 300whp max then that'll be very easy to reach. Unless you have a "goal" of hitting 300whp at like at 10-12psi then I can see where all this added work would be nessary, but for your goals you really dont need all this extra stuff.

The main goal should be being most cost effective as possible.

Get a P75 head, Obd1 (or2) intake manifold and TB, springs/retainors and be done.

Getting 404 cams would be something if you wanna make A LOT of power but w/ a 300hp goal its a waste of money.

Valves are a waste of money unless you are looking to upsize them because factory honda valves are already stainless and work just fine.

Basicaly its like spending $400 to wine and dine a $50 hooker.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:33 PM
  #27  
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Default Re: Building an LS Head for boost (Nors)

I'm having good results with the following setup. No. No dyno numbers as of yet. Taking it to the track on the 18th.

* Crower 62404 camshafts
* Super Tech dual valve springs
* Super Tech titanium retainers
* Super Tech valve seats
* OEM valve guide seals
* OEM cryotreated valves
* Skunk2 intake manifold
* Hondata intake manifold gasket

Car pulls hard to 8,500RPM on 9lbs - 9.5lbs . As soon as the ENDYN catch can comes in, I hope tomorrow, turning up the boost to 20lbs or so
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:34 PM
  #28  
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I like that analogy haha.

Well I need a project for school, so thats why I am doing p&p. I am looking for a bare head also, so thats where the questions about valves came in. I am just looking for a relaible build to about 300hp.
You are saying I should stick to all oem parts (besides intake manifold). Like oem springs and retainers or would you reccomend a company for them?

Thanks for all the help, didn't expect this many posts so quickly, also sorry for some of the redundancy in my questions.

I am working on getting any head I can find for under 100 dollars preferably, also preferably bare.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:37 PM
  #29  
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Default Re: (Nors)

well i have a complete LS head valves,springs, cams the whole 9 yards... if u want it
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 01:47 PM
  #30  
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Default Re: (Nors)

basicaly all OEM will work, just use "upgraded" springs and retainors. Example :Crower or Supertech.

A Blox intake manifold costs liek $150 and is well worth the price. If you dont plan on buying one then make sure you use a Obd1 or Obd2 intake manifold. Also use a Obd1+ TB because they are 60mm vs 58mm. Also if you can, get a P75 (96+) head.

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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 02:16 PM
  #31  
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Fr-MOB thanks but I am looking local.


Can I still do a p&p on the blox manifold? I was actually looking for a mnifold first becuase of cash, but I guess I will save more. I think I already found a p75 head so that should be cool.


So you think OEM cams will be fine, or should I upgrade? Maybe some type r cams or something?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 02:34 PM
  #32  
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Default Re: (Nors)

lol, no vtec cams wont work in a LS head.

But factory P75 cams are fine, no need to spend a couple bones on stuff you really dont need.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 02:48 PM
  #33  
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Default Re: (JDMs1eeper)

oh yeah duh, wasn't thinking when I wrote that.

How about the p&p on the blox manifold, worth it?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 03:11 PM
  #34  
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Default Re: (Nors)

You really can have a completely stock head to do your 300whp goal. I got 328 out of mine with no trouble. Nothing wrong with working on a head, but I'd rather save the money for a goal like that
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 04:09 PM
  #35  
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Default Re: (adseguy)

Hm, I see. And for the block what should I look at doing? Lower compression pistons, arp bolts, the crank is fine.


I'm not really looking for anymore the 10lbs in the beginning, but I can always add more if it is built right.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 04:17 PM
  #36  
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block? just rebuild the block and add arp rod bolts n head studs.
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 04:19 PM
  #37  
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Default Re: (drchulo)

hm sounds good, can't wait to get all of it to start building.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:00 AM
  #38  
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Default Re: (Nors)

Anyone know how much lbs of boost I will be looking at to get to 300whp?

I see peoples signatures with numbers from 7-12lbs, sometimes the 7lbs is more horsepower then the 12lbs. I plan on building a turbo kit on importparts, but I don't even want to look at it yet until I have eveyrthing else. I would love to run about 9-10lbs but will that hinder me in making 300whp?
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 10:16 AM
  #39  
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Default Re: (Nors)

everyone is gonna tell u this but it would be better to just spend the money of vtec head. or u could, cams, port and polish, bigger exhaust valves and valve train.
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 08:44 PM
  #40  
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Actually no one really said that and all were helpful. Did you happen to miss the 200 page ls turbo thread?
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Old Jun 5, 2006 | 11:01 PM
  #41  
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Default Re: (Nors)

sorry, didn't read it all just throwing my .02 cents in
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 03:50 PM
  #42  
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For 250-300hp just port match the intake ports to the intake manifold your gonna use and do the same for the exhaust side but also polish the exhaust side. Then clean up the ports don't have to get all crazy for your hp goals.
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