Well here it is... i come out of work at like 2:00 am last night.. (im a waiter at a local restaurant) and i see a civic hatch and an srt-neon parked next to my car. (i have a turbo gsr. Well as im walking over the hatch revs his engine and i hear his turbo spoolin and then it blows off while he is parked...

im confused as to how he did this... im running hondata s200b now...but how do you build boost from a stop like that... is that one of the hondata options.... thanks for any help..

oh yea... i didnt race the hatch bc i had my girlfriend in the car with me and had to drive her home oh well next time ill race them....

thanks for any help

 

big motor, small turbo.

 

isn't the 2 step deal how you build boost before a launch (or not moving)? I think the S200 has that option...

 

I know a guy with a gt28r on a ls that blows off with no load on the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isn't the 2 step deal how you build boost before a launch (or not moving)? I think the S200 has that option...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup... Uberdata has the same option.

 

i have been doing some reading and it is the 2 step option on the Hondata.. does nayone know how it works tho...

it allows you to bulid boost before you launch.... with a momontary switch mounted somewhere.... anyone using this option can throw some insight here?

 

My setup builds boost in neutral. My bov goes off if I release the throttle after revving past 5500rpm.

 

Building boost in a dry rev has more to do with turbo size than a 2-step, etc. etc. Most T25 style snails with blow off on a dry rev, but a little 1.6 doesn't have the lungs to make a t3/t4 blow off at idle. The smaller the turbo the easier it is to do. Turbos are load dependent.

 

building boost at idle has NOTHING to do with your EMS. the "2-step" that uberdata and honfuckshit has is not boost making friendly; it cuts fuel not spark. If you wanted to use an EMS to build boost at idle or on launch you'd need some sort of antilag system (not even possible w/ stock honda ignition). I know the autronic w/ DIS can do antilag but not honfucknut or uberdata; unless in the future u can use DIS systems w/ the stock computer.

The way to build boost at idle is to use a small turbo or a ball-bearing ceramic larger turbo; rev and PSHEW goes your bypass valve. my greddy kit'd d16a6 would blow off hard reving the motor; my new setup (built d16z6; big t3/t04e) probably won't blow off at all at idle.

 

....."honfuckshit"..... laughing my *** off hhahah

 

small turbo like a 15g

My old kit blow off at idel, big time and loud with my hks
i bet the hatch had a d16 turbo with a hks
t25 or 15g a very small t3
most can do that at idel

 

so your saying the 2 step funtion on hondata or uberdata is NOT a true antilag function? as in ""does not work" or "not a good idea"??

 

Is anyone using the hondata 2-step function???? how do you like it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so your saying the 2 step funtion on hondata or uberdata is NOT a true antilag function? as in ""does not work" or "not a good idea"?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

they arent meant to function like antilag systems. they are meant to work as launch control, and that's what they do. i have the hondata 3step and it works just fine on my launches.

 

I build a good amount of boost when I launch by doing this....

I do this with a MSD 2 step

Basically have the button to release the two step where your e-brake button is...get rid of your ebrake button so it just drops down and does not stay up. I will go full throttle with the ebrake pulled up and finger on the two step button then slowlly start to let out the clutch while holding hard on the ebrake. As soon as you start to feel the clutch grab a little too much you can find the sweet spot...this will put load on the engine and build boost while at a stand still. then as soon as the light turns green drop the ebrake and release the button.

This isn't great for the clutch but it gives a a great hole shot...if you ahve traction.

Also you can brake boost on the highway or while driving useing the same principal go full throttle and step on the brake the extra load will build boost crazy fast, then let go of the brake and hold on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCarp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I build a good amount of boost when I launch by doing this....

I do this with a MSD 2 step

Basically have the button to release the two step where your e-brake button is...get rid of your ebrake button so it just drops down and does not stay up. I will go full throttle with the ebrake pulled up and finger on the two step button then slowlly start to let out the clutch while holding hard on the ebrake. As soon as you start to feel the clutch grab a little too much you can find the sweet spot...this will put load on the engine and build boost while at a stand still. then as soon as the light turns green drop the ebrake and release the button.

This isn't great for the clutch but it gives a a great hole shot...if you ahve traction.

Also you can brake boost on the highway or while driving useing the same principal go full throttle and step on the brake the extra load will build boost crazy fast, then let go of the brake and hold on.</TD></TR></TABLE>


excellent information.. exactly what i was looking for....

the same principle should work with the haondata option right?

So bascially you wire the momentary swtch to be where your ebrake switch is?

 

also has a lot to do with how soft your BOV spring is...

 

HONDATA two step is CRAP!!!

If your lazy on the clutch pedal the hondata will think your trying to two step while your shifting through the gears and cut your rev limit, very shitty in a race situation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xtremeness101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


excellent information.. exactly what i was looking for....

the same principle should work with the haondata option right?

So bascially you wire the momentary swtch to be where your ebrake switch is?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes if you wire in the hondata with a monetary switch you can do the same thing. Or you can wire it in to the clutch switch and hadjust the switch to be at the very very top.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCarp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes if you wire in the hondata with a monetary switch you can do the same thing. Or you can wire it in to the clutch switch and hadjust the switch to be at the very very top.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so instead of using the clutch setup which i have heard people say can not be good because of a "lazy" foot, you can just use a momentary switch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCarp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also you can brake boost on the highway or while driving useing the same principal go full throttle and step on the brake the extra load will build boost crazy fast, then let go of the brake and hold on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hahaha, I think I'm going to try this

 

Yes you can wire it up to a monetary switch.

 

MSD 2-step plugged into your 6AL w/correct rpm plug to get boost off the line..Anti lag........

 

Bump to read later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HONDATA two step is CRAP!!!

If your lazy on the clutch pedal the hondata will think your trying to two step while your shifting through the gears and cut your rev limit, very shitty in a race situation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's more then likely the full throttle working.