Ok its like this. I have a gsr block and head. What would you concider to be the best way to full these up to make a bullet proof engine ? Lets say money is not an issue but have to work off of the b18c1 block and head. oh yeah and i have the 18g greddy kit.

 

there's no way you can build a 100% bullet proof engine.

best thing to do IMO is to sleeve the block, and get a good piton/rod package. dont forget to tune tune tune! good luck

 

does anyone have any information on the crower head setup where you can run 11,000 rpms?

 

Why do you want to rev to 11k? Do you like the noise?
If your gonna rev that high I hope you like rebuilding motors

 

Well #1 go buy pistons and rods and get the block sleeved, and if money is not a issue go buy a Portflow head or some type of head. #2 get rid of your greddy turbo kit and buy something bigger. But you will not be able to build a bulletproof motor it's impossible. I would say your biggest factor is gonna be tuning so I would go buy some type of engine management.

 

put a vest on it
take pictures

you now have a bulletproof block.

EVERYTHING mecahnical at some point or another will break. wear and tear ads up, and it can only take so much. HOW much is what we try to make a bigger part of a build up. for example, forged pistons- they generally take heat better, and don't retain it for as long, resulting in hopefully not melting. It's a fine line that doesn't exist.

 

If you want to build a "bullet proof" block, why skimp it with a pu$$y greddy kit? A greddy kit is to a pimple as a drag 3 kit is to a hemmroid. Sorry if I offend any greddy users out there, but I just see no point in even bothering with a little internally wastegated snail.

and of course, thats IMO.

Oh yea, and for the block building. Heres what I would do if your wallet agrees:

Closed deck darton sleeves
CP race pistons or JE(not SRP's), 9.5:1 compression
Crower or Manley Rods
Portflow or Alaniz head
ARP headstuds
New OEM waterpump, oil pump, timing belt, tensioner, headgakset, and oil pan gasket.

and bam, your set....

 

Why would u want to rev to 11k when u lose power a lot early bro......and ur in the forced induction section reving to 11k on turbo or nitrous would not be the best idea.......... remember simply is better......... just my two cents

 

you can make power that high, you just have to do lots of things to get it reliably....

exvitermini is revving his stroker rb26dett conservitavely to 11,500 rpms.......

it's just a matter of cost, in which it gets very expensive...

 

yeah, but thats almost a 3.0 litter V6 in that Exvitermini car, putting out over 1250 wheel horsepower, theres a difference, hehe

 

11.5k is not necessary for a street car. Im guessing the thread creator is not building a race car with the greddy kit in mind. Will a greddy turbo even make power past 10k? And of course, like you said, its all about how deep your pocket is.

 

Ok money wise we are talking $5000

What companies make differant heads??? i have never even heard of this.

Greddy kit? whats wrong with Greddy. Like with facts and information not just greddy sucks plz.

And turbos stop making power at high rpms? i never new this.

im looking at the crower turbo crank setup comes with crank rods and pistons. i have je pistons now but im just going to replace the whole works. I also have the crower double spring valve springs and titanium retainers but im going to be replacing the valves as well and some cams. But crower makes rockers which allow you to run to 11k no prob but i guess if turbos dont make power at higher rmps then i guess not.

I have ability to rebuild no prob i just need to know what to stick in the motor.

And im probably going to go with moroso's external oil pump instead of stock.

Do water pumps go bad? a gear with some a metal spinner?

Just looking for some information to add to my database thx for all your helpful advise guys.

 

greddy turbo isn't good for high boost levels because #1. Its inefficeint at higher boost levels(12psi). #2. the internal wastegate won't hold higher boost levels.

Greddy kit is fine for adding some extra power, but I wouldn't use it for a 300whp+ car.

 

Different heads? I have a JG Pro Series Head. But I really dont think you should be focusing on the head when building a turbo setup. First focus on the bottom end, which is the most crucial for a turbo. First things to do is resleeve it(GEM or Darton). Dont worry about the Crower crank setup. Just get some crower rods and keep the JE pistons. What compression are they?

A greddy turbo will run out of breath up top. Look at some dynos. They are not capable of flowing that much air. All your going to be doing is blowing hot air. Get a bigger turbo if you want to raise the redline that high(not reccommended). You want to know why people dont like the greddy kit?

-Tiny turbo
-Internal wastegate
-EXPENSIVE (plus it doenst come with blow off valve, or intercooler which is crucial for a reliable good setup)
-SHITTY SHITTY SHITTY fuel management. The blue box is just ***.
-Tiny downpipe and small charge and turbo piping.
-No power made. GSR will push under 200 whp with the kit stock. LS pathetic numbers, civics push 140whp with the kit. Do the math.

You look like you want a hardcore setup by building the motor. The greddy will not offer this. It was designed for a "street legal kit" in california only hence the "carb" status. That tells you a lot right there concerning the output of the kit.

Water pumps go bad all the time.

Do more research on a drag 3 kit or revhard. They are just as simple to install as a greddy, look better, and actually make power up top depending on certain factors.

 

That greddy turbo is a waste of time..... it's small and runs out of breath fast which means less hp. I'd either go with a t3/t4 60-1 or look into those new hybrid turbos from turbonetics... supposedly they spool up much faster and compress just as much air as the t3/t4. Sleeve the block, block saver, JE pistons(9:1) and crower rods. I have that set up in my civic now but with a ls engine (not sleeved) and t3/t4 and I'm getting 300 or close to 300hp on 10psi. Next thing is to get a set of 440cc or bigger injectors and some kind of stand alone to be programmed for them.... stock comp can't supprt em

 

Hell..... if you want I'll sell you my car

 

If you want a reliable turbo motor, buy a car that comes stock out of the factory with a turbo.

 

Sleeve block, (Bensons, GE, or Darton)
Crower rods
JE pistons (9.0:1 C/R)
ARP head studs
Stand alone engine management system

CUSTOM turbo setup! This is a MUST if you plan to push big numbers to go along with your hardcore built block. My turbo of choice, Precision SC61, T3 .63AR Stage 5 wheel, T04E .60AR compressor housing.

 

if you can build it, you can break it.

 

Personally for that amount of cash I'd ditch the B18C block and get a DART... it's going to be able to handle whatever boost you throw at it (tuning granted) and you won't need to worry about it, or have downtime while your block's at the machinist's...

 

i would not recommend buying a prefab kit like a drag kit. I would say go with a custom kit. It is less Expensive and you get the parts you want.

 

AEBS T-Sleeves (50 PSI Tested)
Ross Racing Custom Pistons (Life-time warrenty)
Crower Titanium Rods
ARP Fasteners
Completely Balanced and Blueprinted
Built Head w/ Angled Valve Job
AEBS Custom Cams
Feria Valves (Used in AEBS' Focus)
Toda Springs & Retainers
---STAND ALONE FUEL SYSTEM---I'd go with Hondata(2B) w/data logging

You then, in my opinion, have the closest thing to a bulletproof motor. You are also out of pocket an unthinkable amount of money. Somewhere near the 15G's mark.... As for the Greddy kit, you now know it weaknesses however it really is very reliable, at low boost. If I were you, I would use a Rev Hard Setup.

Just my $0.02



Modified by 2BAR4ME at 12:54 AM 6/18/2003

 

NO REV HARD, NO DRAG ONLY FULL RACE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Only way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intekragsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> greddy kit is to a pimple as a drag 3 kit is to a hemmroid. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL...nice imagery

 

Why do you say no Rev Hard? I have known many people with problems on teh Drag Kits, but usually not the Rev systems. I prefer the custom setups myself, but still ahave never known of anyone with bad experiences with Rev Hard. Let me know why you think that...Im curious.