Budget LSV build- input welcome
I am building my car back up, I need input on what to do.
Im starting with a stock 96+ ls bottom end. b16 head. 70 trim t3/t4 goautoworks topmount.
Already turbo, but I blew either a ring or ringland. I obviously dont want this to happen again.
Plans:
Stock bore. No Sleeves
Wiseco or Arias low comp pistons. Whatever I find cheaper
Stock rods, shot peened,ARP rod bolts (are eagles worth the extra 250)
ARP head studs
Cometic or Honda head gasket (opinions wanted here)
New Oil pump ?
Any other suggestion while everything is apart? Like head wise or?
Goals
250-300 hp with decent drivability mileage and reliability. It made close to 400 on this setup, but it didnt hold so I am going for a more reasonable goal since I might DD this.
Im starting with a stock 96+ ls bottom end. b16 head. 70 trim t3/t4 goautoworks topmount.
Already turbo, but I blew either a ring or ringland. I obviously dont want this to happen again.
Plans:
Stock bore. No Sleeves
Wiseco or Arias low comp pistons. Whatever I find cheaper
Stock rods, shot peened,ARP rod bolts (are eagles worth the extra 250)
ARP head studs
Cometic or Honda head gasket (opinions wanted here)
New Oil pump ?
Any other suggestion while everything is apart? Like head wise or?
Goals
250-300 hp with decent drivability mileage and reliability. It made close to 400 on this setup, but it didnt hold so I am going for a more reasonable goal since I might DD this.
I am building my car back up, I need input on what to do.
Im starting with a stock 96+ ls bottom end. b16 head. 70 trim t3/t4 goautoworks topmount.
Already turbo, but I blew either a ring or ringland. I obviously dont want this to happen again.
Plans:
Stock bore. No Sleeves
Wiseco or Arias low comp pistons. Whatever I find cheaper
Stock rods, shot peened,ARP rod bolts (are eagles worth the extra 250)
ARP head studs
Cometic or Honda head gasket (opinions wanted here)
New Oil pump ?
Any other suggestion while everything is apart? Like head wise or?
Goals
250-300 hp with decent drivability mileage and reliability. It made close to 400 on this setup, but it didnt hold so I am going for a more reasonable goal since I might DD this.
Im starting with a stock 96+ ls bottom end. b16 head. 70 trim t3/t4 goautoworks topmount.
Already turbo, but I blew either a ring or ringland. I obviously dont want this to happen again.
Plans:
Stock bore. No Sleeves
Wiseco or Arias low comp pistons. Whatever I find cheaper
Stock rods, shot peened,ARP rod bolts (are eagles worth the extra 250)
ARP head studs
Cometic or Honda head gasket (opinions wanted here)
New Oil pump ?
Any other suggestion while everything is apart? Like head wise or?
Goals
250-300 hp with decent drivability mileage and reliability. It made close to 400 on this setup, but it didnt hold so I am going for a more reasonable goal since I might DD this.
If you broke a ringland I would suggest a new tuner.
New OEM oil pump (P72/P73)
Headstuds
Pistons AND rods
OEM bearings
OEM headgasket
350-400hp all day long for years with that block
New OEM oil pump (P72/P73)
Headstuds
Pistons AND rods
OEM bearings
OEM headgasket
350-400hp all day long for years with that block
Go talk to circuit form engine works speak to jimmy tell them Dave with the copper ek9 sent u, this guy is sick in building motors and has one of the best machine shops around. He is in SB off the 215 and the 10 fwy.
It use to be a type r pump, but they are the same number now.
I would do rods if building a motor. It will fart 350-400hp with no worries.
If you're only going to make 250hp why even rebuild the motor? Just buy a used longblock and make sure to tune it this time.
I would do rods if building a motor. It will fart 350-400hp with no worries.
If you're only going to make 250hp why even rebuild the motor? Just buy a used longblock and make sure to tune it this time.
Trending Topics
It use to be a type r pump, but they are the same number now.
I would do rods if building a motor. It will fart 350-400hp with no worries.
If you're only going to make 250hp why even rebuild the motor? Just buy a used longblock and make sure to tune it this time.
I would do rods if building a motor. It will fart 350-400hp with no worries.
If you're only going to make 250hp why even rebuild the motor? Just buy a used longblock and make sure to tune it this time.
I want it to be reliable.
Everyone I've talked to seem to agree the ringlands were blown due to stock pistons, and no crankcase ventilation. It was tuned by a reputeable shop.
I ended up with wiseco pistons. I will look for rods
It use to be a type r pump, but they are the same number now.
I would do rods if building a motor. It will fart 350-400hp with no worries.
If you're only going to make 250hp why even rebuild the motor? Just buy a used longblock and make sure to tune it this time.
I would do rods if building a motor. It will fart 350-400hp with no worries.
If you're only going to make 250hp why even rebuild the motor? Just buy a used longblock and make sure to tune it this time.
Is that true?
Make sure u get a water pump and yeah for the little price I would pay for the rods Cuase they will charge to remove and install the piston and you have to machine the rods it all adds up plus you hqve to buy the Arp rod bolts price difference is not to much Cuase if u do need a need rod in the end u will end up spending more money
here's our budget lsv build...
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/track-...car-build.html
http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/track-...car-build.html
If you want to boost over 20 psi. Sleeve it @ 84mm
Eagle H beam rods
Arias Racing pistons 9.5:1
ACL STD Bearings
G.E. OEM Head gasket 84mm
Balance the rotating assembly, micro polish crank and check piston wrist pin fit.
''Break in and tuning are key''
Eagle H beam rods
Arias Racing pistons 9.5:1
ACL STD Bearings
G.E. OEM Head gasket 84mm
Balance the rotating assembly, micro polish crank and check piston wrist pin fit.
''Break in and tuning are key''
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CRX MASE
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
9
Jun 19, 2006 01:22 AM





