As of now I have no engine management

The swap will be put in next weekend, the JE piston rings were filed to turbo applications so the tolerances are a bit looser

will I not get a good seal if I break it in with the wastegate spring out?

OR should I get a uberdata base map and break it in with mild boost 6psi

this would be on a 10psi basemap with the same d16z6 and turbo as me

 

Turtbo's don't break in, if they had to be broken in, they would breal within seconds....but crank the car for 15 seconds without it starting so it gets oil in it.

 

sorry for the confusion but the turbo is fine

should I break in a rebuilt motor with the turbo on if the rings were filed for turbo applications

 

bump

 

up

wanna make sure my rings seat right

 

I would like to know others opinions as well. Ill be breaking my built D series in NA to save time while I round a few more turbo parts for my project car and all the clearances are for big boost. I was thinking staying NA would be better to break in with because I can beat the crap out of it with a stock ecu and injectors and not have to worry about tuning unlike other projects where it needed to be dynoed and tuned before we could get on it. I know boost helps set the rings but if you have to baby the motor and stay out of boost because its untuned that defeats the purpose.

 

well I would be running an Uberdata base map for a 10psi setup more than likely

 

just an idea from a noob


change the spring to the lowest one possible, and run a 12:1 FMU and take it easy on the throttle

 

If you are going to be breaking in the motor... dont install the turbo and then break the motor in.

Break the motor in NA form as omaha is doing and then install the turbo afterwards. You seriously dont want to be breaking in your motor with a turbo. Just my $0.02 take it or leave it.

 

i agree with that

But what about the fact that the piston rings were filled at a looser tolerance, wont they not see enough heat to seat properly

anyways the turbo is already installed, I can just remove the wastegate spring and call it a day if I wanna do a NA break in

 

I beat the s*** out of my cars as soon as I find it holds oil pressure ha ha ha.

 

I would highly recommend an NA break in. No personal experience, just from what I've read.

 

i did NA break in too(wait im still doing it, )

yeah the tolerances are different but for the beginning it will be fine...there not to far off

get it so it stays together, work out all the little kinks, then boost it.. its easier that way

 

I always heard the first 20 minutes is your window for seating the rings properly.

I am going to do the Haynes method....after intiall warm up, do 12-15 of the 20-50 mph runs with in gear throttle let off on the deceleration.

 

i broke my motor in with boost. for the first 500 miles i babied the motor without really boosting and then after 500 miles i started boosting a little at a time lik3 3 psi then 5 psi and so forth over the course of like 300 more miles and each time i pressed the gas pedal when i let off i didnt use the brakes i let the motor rev itself down. ( that helps seat the rings from the bottom with vacuum) after 1000 miles i did a compression test and they were 180 180 185 180 and i was happy with that. going to get tuned tommorrow at 3:00 so we will see what kind of power i will get.

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I beat the s*** out of my cars as soon as I find it holds oil pressure ha ha ha.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's sad is that you're the only one here that does it right.

 

hey Nextelbuddy

IF I was to do the same method breakin as you did but with my wastegate spring removed, would the rings seat properlly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd_styles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's sad is that you're the only one here that does it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I may have went overboard on the last one. I did some burnouts in front of my house followed by snow drifting (repeated exposure to the rev limiter ha ha ha) in an unplowed parking lot minutes after firing it the first time.

The verdict is in on that motor............. 205 psi compression across the board. It uses no oil at all on its way to a 5000 mile oil change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd_styles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's sad is that you're the only one here that does it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats how i break my motors in

dont forget, when breaking it in, go from 20-50moh at WOT, that pus the max load on the rings helping them seat. and left the motor beak (slow down) itself.


as for with a turbo? i say throw a stock header on and break it in na with stock ecu and injectors.
unless this is gonna be a race only motor.. i hear some of them break them in with boost, but they also rebuild them alot more frequently then a street or street/strip motor.

hope this helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nd_styles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's sad is that you're the only one here that does it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

my engine had oil pressure and held it when i started it the first time....but im not going to go out and beat it to bad till the rings were seated...

saying to go beat your motor before the rings are seated is good INFO

but im not saying to baby the crap out of the motor either....a resonable time is fine...

couple oil changes with normal oil no synthetic....drive it threw those steps listed above.... then if it feels good holds oil pressure...get on it

 

this 20-50....should it be in 2nd gear only or third aswell

why would I have to put a stock header on it, I already have stock ecu and injectors just the turbo with the downpipe connected and no wastegate spring, there will be no difference right???

 

i know of a few people that broek their motor in on the dyno ( they trailered the car straight to the dyno) and netted about 480 to the wheels easy.

i broek mine in with a combo of hard method and easy method...

you dont hae to take the wastegate spring out just leave it in. if you dont want to boost dont floor it. i know its scary when you start the motor up for the first time but if you assembled the motor together correctly and measured clearances accordingly then dont be scaed break that motor in however you want ... but i say do it with boost. your rings are gapped looser for boost im assuming so they are made to handle it. so dont treat them like a baby then when you start boosting later they wont like the boost and wont be seated correctly.

eveyrone breaks their motor in a million different ways and they all work. pick one and do it

 

Should be fine with-out the wastegate spring. If you see a little boost don't be worried until it gets up to like 5psi. If it even spools.

 

Warrior engines who builds my motors tells me 50 miles 5grand max, change oil. Then drive it like ya stole it. If its going to break it will during these 50 miles. But dont go to crazy during this. the first 50 miles at regular tachs is to just seat the rings after that see whats it made of.

 

ok sounds good and all, but what about the 20-50 should I do a 3rd gear shift (I know I am ****) my car would be around 6,500 rpms if I left it in 2nd