breaking in a turbo
#2
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Re: breaking in a turbo (SpoolnByYou)
Installation and pre-oiling of turbochargers.
1. Remove old gasket form exhaust manifold mounting flange, inspect flange for erosion and flatness and install a new gasket.. if used.
2. Inspect oil dran and supply lines for kinking, clogging, restrctions and other signs of deterioration.
3. Install turbocharger on engine using all new gaskets and O rings (when needed) but do not connect the compressor inlet and oil supply line. Tighten the nuts or bolts attaching the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold to to the toqrue values given in the shop manual. Use of a high temperature lubricant on these threads is recommeneded.
4. Fill the oil inlet hole with clean engine oil and spin the compressor wheel several times to coat the bearings with oil. Refill the oil inlet hole and connect the oil supply line.
5. If the compressor wheel cannot be supn freely by hand or if there is any indication of rubbing, scraping, determine the reason before starting the engine. One cause of wheel rubbing is a cocked compressor or turbine housing. T04 and T04B turbochargers may have a slight drag before running in, which is a normal condition. Connect the pipe or hose from the outlet of the air filter to the compressor inlet.
6. Check lubricant level in engine crankcase
7. Primer the oil filter if it was charged.
Starting the engine.
1. before attempting to start the engine, crank the engine with the fuel shut off for 10 to 15 seconds or until the instruments show an oil pressure buildup.
2. Start the engine and allow it to run at idle speed for 3 to 4 minutes before accelearating.
3. CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS
1. Remove old gasket form exhaust manifold mounting flange, inspect flange for erosion and flatness and install a new gasket.. if used.
2. Inspect oil dran and supply lines for kinking, clogging, restrctions and other signs of deterioration.
3. Install turbocharger on engine using all new gaskets and O rings (when needed) but do not connect the compressor inlet and oil supply line. Tighten the nuts or bolts attaching the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold to to the toqrue values given in the shop manual. Use of a high temperature lubricant on these threads is recommeneded.
4. Fill the oil inlet hole with clean engine oil and spin the compressor wheel several times to coat the bearings with oil. Refill the oil inlet hole and connect the oil supply line.
5. If the compressor wheel cannot be supn freely by hand or if there is any indication of rubbing, scraping, determine the reason before starting the engine. One cause of wheel rubbing is a cocked compressor or turbine housing. T04 and T04B turbochargers may have a slight drag before running in, which is a normal condition. Connect the pipe or hose from the outlet of the air filter to the compressor inlet.
6. Check lubricant level in engine crankcase
7. Primer the oil filter if it was charged.
Starting the engine.
1. before attempting to start the engine, crank the engine with the fuel shut off for 10 to 15 seconds or until the instruments show an oil pressure buildup.
2. Start the engine and allow it to run at idle speed for 3 to 4 minutes before accelearating.
3. CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS
#3
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There is no point in cranking the engine to build up pressure. It will never happen and even if it does it will not be significant. Just start it up and it should be at 75 in 3-5 seconds
#5
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Re: (SOHCD16y8)
if i just crank my motor over and over
i can make about 10psi of pressure
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no point in cranking the engine to build up pressure. It will never happen and even if it does it will not be significant. Just start it up and it should be at 75 in 3-5 seconds</TD></TR></TABLE>
i can make about 10psi of pressure
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no point in cranking the engine to build up pressure. It will never happen and even if it does it will not be significant. Just start it up and it should be at 75 in 3-5 seconds</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (SOHCD16y8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no point in cranking the engine to build up pressure. It will never happen and even if it does it will not be significant. Just start it up and it should be at 75 in 3-5 seconds</TD></TR></TABLE>
1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure
1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure
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#8
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Re: (D@nnY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
At cold idle my engine builds 60-80 psi with no "problems".
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
At cold idle my engine builds 60-80 psi with no "problems".
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Re: (D@nnY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
1,000+ posts and a 600hp car, but you still don't know at cold idle you're going to get 75-80psi of oil pressure?
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
1,000+ posts and a 600hp car, but you still don't know at cold idle you're going to get 75-80psi of oil pressure?
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1,000+ posts and a 600hp car, but you still don't know at cold idle you're going to get 75-80psi of oil pressure? </TD></TR></TABLE>
it depends on bearing clearences, if the oil pump is shimmed , start up rpm type of oil ect.... so try not to be a smart ***
Modified by D@nnY at 10:05 PM 11/24/2005
1,000+ posts and a 600hp car, but you still don't know at cold idle you're going to get 75-80psi of oil pressure? </TD></TR></TABLE>
it depends on bearing clearences, if the oil pump is shimmed , start up rpm type of oil ect.... so try not to be a smart ***
Modified by D@nnY at 10:05 PM 11/24/2005
#11
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1,000+ posts and a 600hp car, but you still don't know at cold idle you're going to get 75-80psi of oil pressure? </TD></TR></TABLE>
ive seen many cars not even come close to 80 psi at idle.
not to forget most cars dont idle at 900 rpms when its cold....
and to answer the question of the thread....
id try to put some miles on the turbo before you start boosting...
1,000+ posts and a 600hp car, but you still don't know at cold idle you're going to get 75-80psi of oil pressure? </TD></TR></TABLE>
ive seen many cars not even come close to 80 psi at idle.
not to forget most cars dont idle at 900 rpms when its cold....
and to answer the question of the thread....
id try to put some miles on the turbo before you start boosting...
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most cars don't see 80psi period, every Honda i've owned and every person i've talked to with one says they get about 80psi at idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats strange considering the specs in the helms are about 10 psi at idle and 50 psi at 3 grand...i believe these are the lower limits but still....80 psi at idle seems extreme
thats strange considering the specs in the helms are about 10 psi at idle and 50 psi at 3 grand...i believe these are the lower limits but still....80 psi at idle seems extreme
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We're discussing cold idle.
10psi is normal for fully warmed, doesn't your 600+hp car have an oil pressure gauge?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no YOUR discussing cold idle ...if you look agian this thread is about BREAKING IN A TURBO and the reason this started is someone said "you cant build oil pressure cranking the motor" which is not correct.....
10psi is normal for fully warmed, doesn't your 600+hp car have an oil pressure gauge?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no YOUR discussing cold idle ...if you look agian this thread is about BREAKING IN A TURBO and the reason this started is someone said "you cant build oil pressure cranking the motor" which is not correct.....
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Re: (D@nnY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the car should not idle at 75-80 psi of oil pressure and I never said cold idle ...the cold idle is higher but still not 80 psi....
so save the stupid comments
1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure
</TD></TR></TABLE>
the car should not idle at 75-80 psi of oil pressure and I never said cold idle ...the cold idle is higher but still not 80 psi....
so save the stupid comments
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Re: (D@nnY)
You sparked the debate, no reason to **** an attitude with me.
In your reply to
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will never happen and even if it does it will not be significant. Just start it up and it should be at 75 in 3-5 seconds</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
75-80psi is what it's supposed to be at cold start up, end of discussion, just admit you're wrong.
And yes, you can build quite a bit of oil pressure cranking the motor, i've built as much as 30psi cold cranking trying to get the car to start after i rebuilt the motor. I had the timing off and injectors wired wrong, heh.
In your reply to
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will never happen and even if it does it will not be significant. Just start it up and it should be at 75 in 3-5 seconds</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.if your engine gives you 75 psi of oil pressure at idle you have problems...
2.you should crank the motor to build oil pressure...remove the spark plugs so the motor spins freely and it will build pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
75-80psi is what it's supposed to be at cold start up, end of discussion, just admit you're wrong.
And yes, you can build quite a bit of oil pressure cranking the motor, i've built as much as 30psi cold cranking trying to get the car to start after i rebuilt the motor. I had the timing off and injectors wired wrong, heh.
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sparked the debate, no reason to **** an attitude with me.
And yes, you can build quite a bit of oil pressure cranking the motor, i've built as much as 30psi cold cranking trying to get the car to start after i rebuilt the motor. I had the timing off and injectors wired wrong, heh.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so why do you keep making sarcastic comments about my car which has nothing to do with this?? especially if you cant put a car on timing or wire injectors
there was no reason for the stupid comments .... if you would like to state you disagree with me about the oil pressure just say it without the immature moronic comments
And yes, you can build quite a bit of oil pressure cranking the motor, i've built as much as 30psi cold cranking trying to get the car to start after i rebuilt the motor. I had the timing off and injectors wired wrong, heh.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so why do you keep making sarcastic comments about my car which has nothing to do with this?? especially if you cant put a car on timing or wire injectors
there was no reason for the stupid comments .... if you would like to state you disagree with me about the oil pressure just say it without the immature moronic comments
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Re: (D@nnY)
I screwed up a few things putting an engine back into a car, big deal, bugs happen. I discovered my problem after checking those two things, i brought my injector harness in from the left insted of right, i'm not sure if i did this, or a friend that was helping me do wiring, i also had the firing order wrong, i looked in my Haynes for the order and it said "1, 2, 3, 4" in the picture and starting at the bottom. I was like "Uh, how does that work?", after trying to start it, i kept reading and discovered "Firing order: 1 3 4 2" written afterwards.
You have a 600hp car, you should have an oil pressure gauge in it, if you watch your gauge, it will hit 70-80psi on cold start-up.
You have a 600hp car, you should have an oil pressure gauge in it, if you watch your gauge, it will hit 70-80psi on cold start-up.
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Re: (SOHCD16y8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHCD16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no point in cranking the engine to build up pressure. It will never happen and even if it does it will not be significant. Just start it up and it should be at 75 in 3-5 seconds</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont know.. I guess you must be some sort of engineer or something? Maybe you should call up the guys at garrett and tell them a thing or two since there the ones who WROTE THAT!!
To garrett for detailed instructions
To false info found on HT
Gooday
I dont know.. I guess you must be some sort of engineer or something? Maybe you should call up the guys at garrett and tell them a thing or two since there the ones who WROTE THAT!!
To garrett for detailed instructions
To false info found on HT
Gooday
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have a 600hp car, you should have an oil pressure gauge in it, if you watch your gauge, it will hit 70-80psi on cold start-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
very few cars have oil pressure gauges. and ive never seen one fail because they didnt have an oil pressure gauge...
and most dont come close to 80 psi of oil pressure at idle. cold or not here in florida...and trust me, ive been in a lot of turbo hondas
You have a 600hp car, you should have an oil pressure gauge in it, if you watch your gauge, it will hit 70-80psi on cold start-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
very few cars have oil pressure gauges. and ive never seen one fail because they didnt have an oil pressure gauge...
and most dont come close to 80 psi of oil pressure at idle. cold or not here in florida...and trust me, ive been in a lot of turbo hondas
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Re: (Mase)
Not having a gauge for oil is stupid in my opinion, especially on a heavily modified car. I've had a my oil run low and it saved me, my oil pan gasket split when my car warmed up, this caused oil to pour out, had i not had a gauge, i wouldn't have known and drove the car, i noticed a dramatic decrease in oil pressure, i took it easy home.
Why do people argue with me when i state facts?
Most cars cold start about 2,000-2,500rpms, mine cold starts to 3,000, my oil pressure is at 80psi until the car has fully warmed and it slowly drops to about 20psi. Shoot, the car cold started to 75psi on a crank with all the main bearings worn way out of spec before i rebuilt it.
Why do people argue with me when i state facts?
Most cars cold start about 2,000-2,500rpms, mine cold starts to 3,000, my oil pressure is at 80psi until the car has fully warmed and it slowly drops to about 20psi. Shoot, the car cold started to 75psi on a crank with all the main bearings worn way out of spec before i rebuilt it.
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why do people argue with me when i state facts?
Most cars cold start about 2,500rpms, mine cold starts to 3,000, my oil pressure is at 80psi until the car has fully warmed and it slowly drops to about 20psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude, come on, ive tuned way over 100 cars, none of them come close to idling at 2500 when completely cold.
they are around 1400-1600.
if your car starts at 3000 rpms when its cold, that is def not normal.
Why do people argue with me when i state facts?
Most cars cold start about 2,500rpms, mine cold starts to 3,000, my oil pressure is at 80psi until the car has fully warmed and it slowly drops to about 20psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude, come on, ive tuned way over 100 cars, none of them come close to idling at 2500 when completely cold.
they are around 1400-1600.
if your car starts at 3000 rpms when its cold, that is def not normal.
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Re: (O16581724 5 2 5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by O16581724 5 2 5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why do people argue with me when i state facts?
Most cars cold start about 2,000-2,500rpms, mine cold starts to 3,000, my oil pressure is at 80psi until the car has fully warmed and it slowly drops to about 20psi. Shoot, the car cold started to 75psi on a crank with all the main bearings worn way out of spec before i rebuilt it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your car idles at 3 grand when you start it??? you should stop stating facts already .....
Why do people argue with me when i state facts?
Most cars cold start about 2,000-2,500rpms, mine cold starts to 3,000, my oil pressure is at 80psi until the car has fully warmed and it slowly drops to about 20psi. Shoot, the car cold started to 75psi on a crank with all the main bearings worn way out of spec before i rebuilt it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your car idles at 3 grand when you start it??? you should stop stating facts already .....