breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
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breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
i recently had my block built with 9:1 pistons and rods. and i was told to run the motor for 20 minutes with nonsynsatic oil then change the oil. my question is will my turbo be ok with this nonsynsatic oil running through it.
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
Ya it will be fine. The reason you run nonsynthetic oil is because it helps seat the rings to the walls. The turbo will not be affected at all.
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
you need to break the motor in not just run it 20 minutes with conventional motor oil and dump it. Motor should be started and heated up to ensure no overheating and/or leaks. take the car out and vary engine speed and load (not boosting) do this for 5-10 miles to properly seat the piston rings. after that your good to go. Personally i run rotella T5 which is a synthetic 10w30 with zinc addative and cheap. you can also run brad penn and motule oil. somethign with a zinc addative is good for wear protection so long as there is no catclytic converter on the car
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From: 29 palms
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
you need to break the motor in not just run it 20 minutes with conventional motor oil and dump it. Motor should be started and heated up to ensure no overheating and/or leaks. take the car out and vary engine speed and load (not boosting) do this for 5-10 miles to properly seat the piston rings. after that your good to go. Personally i run rotella T5 which is a synthetic 10w30 with zinc addative and cheap. you can also run brad penn and motule oil. somethign with a zinc addative is good for wear protection so long as there is no catclytic converter on the car
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
you need to break the motor in not just run it 20 minutes with conventional motor oil and dump it. Motor should be started and heated up to ensure no overheating and/or leaks. take the car out and vary engine speed and load (not boosting) do this for 5-10 miles to properly seat the piston rings. after that your good to go. Personally i run rotella T5 which is a synthetic 10w30 with zinc addative and cheap. you can also run brad penn and motule oil. somethign with a zinc addative is good for wear protection so long as there is no catclytic converter on the car
If you bottom end has been machined, I would also start it up and let it idle till it gets warm, shut it down, and then do an immediate oil change with the same conventional oil. This way, if you have any little metal shavings or debris floating around, you can get those out of the motor before you start breaking it in.
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From: TX
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
That Zinc oil sounds like a good idea. I do the first startup with regular oil and run for twenty minutes or so. Drain and change the filter to get any initial gunk out. Then refill with regular again for 500 miles or so. Then drain/refill with whatver you going to run. I'll try to find that zinc oil for the first two oil fills from now on.
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From: Ohio
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
Correct me if I am wrong, but didn't Rotella take all the Zinc addatives out of their oil recently? I used Torco break in Oil for my built GSR
As for proper break-in procedure you'll get 10k different answers, I personally went with this one:
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
As for proper break-in procedure you'll get 10k different answers, I personally went with this one:
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/breakin.htm
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From: 29 palms
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
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From: Indiana
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
I wouldnt run synthetic until after at least a thousand miles. Do an Oil change after you get it idling for 20-30 minutes. It will come out NASTY.
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
So whom can I blame for this mess? The blind machinist that honed my piston to wall clearance? That poor quality Brand X piston manufacturer? The idiot pro engine builder that assembled my block? My ex-friend that helped me put this all together? Those ignorant engineers that gave me a bad base map with my engine management system? The guy on the internet message board whose buddy knows that it takes at least 1000 miles of break in before you can tune an engine properly? All of the above? Probably none of the above. Go look in a mirror and ask…who started this engine and had no idea what the air fuel ratio was? Who just wanted to jump on it one time to see if it would haul? Who didn’t know that their injectors were at 100% duty cycle at 4000 rpm but they wanted to see how it would run at 6000 rpm? Why it was you. Get that thing tuned right away. You will notice that the more you drive a tuned motor, the stronger it will feel. This is just the rings seating in their final 5-10% as they thank you for tuning first.
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Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
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From: Ohio
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
It is very true as my built GSR (Laskey built) pulls like a son of a bitch. My vtec engagement is by far the loudest me or any of my friends have ever heard, and I am not just saying that because its my car, it really it that ridiculously loud. I would not listen to or have another person build a Honda motor outside of Mike Laskey.
Heres some info about different oils and break in stuff....it looks like I was right, Rotella doesn't have all the zinc it once did
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Heres some info about different oils and break in stuff....it looks like I was right, Rotella doesn't have all the zinc it once did
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
I siad to run conventional motor oil for breakin. read my post. if there is a conventional motor oil with a zinc addative then go for it. what i recoended that has zinc is a synthetic motor oil which is why I said to run conventional. I personally havent seen conventional with zinc addative but i dont know everything so if its out there then run it
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From: schooling kids in ny, usa
Re: breaking in new engine with nonsynsetic oil.
i always start mine up with sae30 for the first time. i unplug the injectors and take out the plugs and crank it over for a solid minute to build oil pressure, then re connect plugs/injectors and fire it up. let it idle for a quick min just to jump out and check for leaks, then i run it at between 2-2500 for about 10 minutes, until its up to temp and ive heard the fan cycle, watching the wideband and gauges all the while. shut it off, change the oil with usually 10w-40 castrol gtx nonsynth. after that its out with the laptop and wideband while i drive around continuing to increase heat by more load/rpm while engine braking in between. its never let me down, in fact my current 2.0l gsr pulls 210 psi compression on a 9.3:1 static with just a shade under 3000 miles on it.
Turbo-LS and anyone else, non honda situation here..my friend is about to fire up his 1949 chevy pickup with an aftermarket cam and forged pistons , i think its a 302 straight six in it for the first time. with that old stuff im pretty sure you need more zinc in the oil, but it is recommended/proper to use the zinc oil on initial startup....
Turbo-LS and anyone else, non honda situation here..my friend is about to fire up his 1949 chevy pickup with an aftermarket cam and forged pistons , i think its a 302 straight six in it for the first time. with that old stuff im pretty sure you need more zinc in the oil, but it is recommended/proper to use the zinc oil on initial startup....
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