don't get me wrong, i'm not going to boost the **** out of the new engine. my question concerns the fact that it will be inevitable that i will see some sort of boost during the break in procedure especially when i go up hills and see a load.

so, will it be bad if there is even a little boost? i'm going with the break in method as described by "the old one" and will have to "zing" it every once in a while. any help is appreciated. thanks

 

No boost.

 

Well if you are concirned about boost than just disconect your Intercooler piping, so you don't see boost...

 

I drove my car with the turbo on it for the breakin period.. just don't get insane with it.. common sense... wehn getting on the onramp.. dont wind out each gear, hammer it and rae everything in sight...

drive like a normal human being... no lead footing to the next light.. you should be fine...

some dont recommend it, but when i get my car back from the shop and it had all the turbo stuff on it.. i wasn't gonna take it off jsut for hte breakin period..

the shop i went to said "just use your head and think and you'll be fine"

 

Disconnecting intercooler piping will overrev the turbo. Why does everyone recommend this?

Dustin

 

Well I think that disconecting the piping would work as long as he drives normally and not like a maniak.

But I might be wrong. And if I am please let me know.......!!!!

 

I broke my new motor is with the turbo on the car. It's got 1300 mile now and my breather filter fell to pieces from dryrot. A week of driving with no breather filter, making 8-10 PSI, and NO blowby whatsoever. CLEAN intake manifold, no oil.


I think as long as you take it easy, don't rev to 4k for the first critical 200 miles, and then don't go past 4500 or 5k til after AT LEAST 800 miles, you should be ok...

I boosted at low RPM's after about 500 miles, but never about 8 PSI and NEVER for any length of time <highway sprints below 5k rpm> Longest I stayed inboost was 3- seconds just to feel a little tug of lag Very nice!

 

yeah, i stayed out of boost for like 100 miles...then it was off to the track....well it IS a race motor you know.

 

ROFL... mine's more race than street, being all build loose and ****, but y'know I'd like it to last 20k miles I PSSSSSSHHHT's!!

 

I broke my motor in built with turbo... Car use to smoke a **** lot... Now its down to where it stops after it warms to 100 degrees then its all play... I only have 912 miles on it... As long as you dont get all heavy foot at most times you should be good... Motor runs strong.., I did find out what was the real problem with it smoking.. Damn valve seals... Soon to be changed... Other than that just use common sense.

p out good luck

 

Hmmm valve seals smoking on a cool motor.... sounds like my issues too..... I might need to have a head built sooner than I thought

When the car's cold, like REALLY cold, it smokes all to hell and back til it warms up, and registers on the temp gauge, then it's fine to beat the hell out of.... weird.

 

no boost guarantees NO PROBLEM (at least from boost related issues)

ANY BOOST increases risk of damage to new engine

is it worth it?

 

cool I thought my car was stupid, guess not... I dont feel so bad since you and several others have the same prob...

p out

 

You are supposed to keep your new engine under 3k for the first 1,000 miles anyways i thought....so unless your turbo starts spooling before that then you'll never hit any boost....i just finished breaking in my engine and kept it under 3k...but also i have a big *** turbo with lots of lag that doesn't start spooling till almost 3500

 

what about taking the spring out of the wastegate? Will that cause any damage?

 

Thats what i was thinking. WG open = no boost with out overspooling the turbo. If you're closed loop, you'll be sitting pretty......i'm prolly stupid tho

 

extending the actuator arm aout to its far outward travel isa another option. if you do boost it would only be maybe 2psi.

There may be a better way of "disabling the turbo" with out major headache, Dustin?? Anyone? Whats the easy way to do that?

Also, with engine break in going over 3000rpms is not a problem, one of the main issues is not staying at a fixed rpm for prolonged periods of time, keep the rpms fluctuating so that they'r variable, ie; dont stay at 3500rpms for 30 minutes on the freeway, vary between 2500, 3000, 3500...but goping up to 4000 or 5000 rpms shouldnt damage anything....although i would avoid redline.


[Modified by greyzone, 4:13 PM 12/21/2001]