bottom end built for boost?
does anybody know where I could buy a pistons/rods built block for under 2k? I seen erl performance blocks and idk if I need a sleeved one. I'm lookin for 300whp b series.. preferably an ls or gsr.. anybody??
As everyone else has said, that's an easy goal on a healthy stock engine. My boosted stock block GSR put down 315whp/216wtq for 2 years before I decided to build it...the bottom end is still going strong in a friend's hatch (i didnt want to give the impression that it lasted for 2 years and blew up)
Your best bet for that hp goal would be to get a motor, tear it down and replace the bearings, get the rods, pistons, and cylinders cleaned up, run ARP head studs, boost, and tune tune tune
Check this link out.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/guide-answer-common-question-just-bought-civic-how-do-i-make-faster-2915974/
Check this link out.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/guide-answer-common-question-just-bought-civic-how-do-i-make-faster-2915974/
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As everyone else has said, that's an easy goal on a healthy stock engine. My boosted stock block GSR put down 315whp/216wtq for 2 years before I decided to build it...the bottom end is still going strong in a friend's hatch (i didnt want to give the impression that it lasted for 2 years and blew up)
I dont think the OP has the block yet..
So if 2k doesnt include the block, he's going to have a limited budget.
But ARP rod bolts are a must for the LS and a good idea for the gsr. Getting the rods sized for the bolts shouldnt be too much $$.
but the catch is, you cant just torque in the rod bolts, the big ends have to be resized. Which then, since your taking those out, you can change pistons,re-hone,re-ring, and basically build everything right since you have everything apart already.
So the choice is yours on what direction you want to go
So if 2k doesnt include the block, he's going to have a limited budget.
But ARP rod bolts are a must for the LS and a good idea for the gsr. Getting the rods sized for the bolts shouldnt be too much $$.
but the catch is, you cant just torque in the rod bolts, the big ends have to be resized. Which then, since your taking those out, you can change pistons,re-hone,re-ring, and basically build everything right since you have everything apart already.
So the choice is yours on what direction you want to go
It's actually never overlooked on here. If you look in almost every thread that some one is asking about turbocharging or a boost build, it is stated multiple times that tuning is key and a must.
I thought the same thing before I blew up my gsr. The rod bolts in my motor were stock along with everything else other than a HG and head studs. When the motor finally let go, it literaly broke the rod almost at the half way point between the wrist pin and crank. I had over 124,xxx miles on the bottom end and I beat on it every time I drove it!
I guess thats why they say to shot peen the rods while theyre out..
i know its hard to find a shop that still does this around my area, guess its a lost art since people just buy new rods
i know its hard to find a shop that still does this around my area, guess its a lost art since people just buy new rods
the assembled erl blocks are 2400 bux and theyre sleeved. I was just wondering if somebody else sells an assembled block with stock sleeves for cheaper. I'm eventually gonna up my boost and go well over 300 whp.. perhaps somebody has one for sale on here?? I'll jus have to look. Ideally I'd like to buy one from a company..
if u have a gsr just bolt on a turbo and tune for 300 i have a bone stock gsr making 300 at 10psi. u can also replace rods and pistons without even taking the motor out of the car if u want to. if u have enough mechanical know how to install our own turbo kit u can totally do the rods and pistons later if u want. i think u should try 300 alot of ppl are pretty happy with this number, ita alot of fun and the cheapest way to go.
Yep, I would NEVER buy somebody's "built" motor unless it was a reputable company who will stand behind their work or a person I knew really well and they would have to know their sh*t with engine assembly, break in, and I'd have to know that the machine shop that did the machine work knew their sh*t too plus exactly what the shop did lol! Otherwise, you can tell me it's benson golden eagle endyn sleeved with laskey *** shot assembly lube matrixed by crower inc blah... and I'm still only offering you one doll hair.
Op, boost the stock B18 if it's healthy. Stock head bolts, mmm, I'd probably only push for 250whp. That's a fun little street car and quick enough to get you in some trouble especially if you're not used to a boosted car on the streets. Think of it as a baby step in learning how to drive your car all over again. With ARP head studs and rod bolts, I'd push it to 350whp max.
Op, boost the stock B18 if it's healthy. Stock head bolts, mmm, I'd probably only push for 250whp. That's a fun little street car and quick enough to get you in some trouble especially if you're not used to a boosted car on the streets. Think of it as a baby step in learning how to drive your car all over again. With ARP head studs and rod bolts, I'd push it to 350whp max.
this is exactly what my original question was and the closest answer I've got is 'craigslist'. nobody has really answered my ? yet.. is there a company with professionally built, pistons & rods, bottom ends? yes or no? not tryin to sound like an *** but geez..
In direct answer to your question, NO.
Laskeyracing does..
you buy the core from them and they build it to your specs..
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/raceengines.htm
you buy the core from them and they build it to your specs..
http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/raceengines.htm
well ive looked into a couple companys who will build me a block and it aint cheap. you guys are prolly gonna shoot me but im thinking i may just buy a low mileage ls block, do arp rod bolts and head studs, and tune it good on s300. get it close to 300 whp.. has anybody pushed a stock bottom end past 300? curious as to how strong a stock bottom really is..





