20yrsToMidnight

Looking to do a mild build and mostly just the bottom end.. I've done plenty of research on the different companies and their prices. I just want something that i can run about 300 hp for many years to come. Ive also been in the game long enough to know whatever can go wrong most likely will as my stock b18b is begging for a rebuild after 6 months of low boost. Anyways what would be the most cost efficient combo of parts for my bottom end rebuild.. Of course the tuning aspect will not be skimped on since its the most important "part" you can buy. Thanks ladies and gents

zexxbo

eagle rods, cp or wiseco pistons

EARLdaSQUIRREL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eagle rods, cp or wiseco pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto both are cheap and should do great for 300whp

just make sure you have a good machinist and go .20 over and you will be set

0morgan@synapse motorsport

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coptzer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ditto both are cheap and should do great for 300whp

just make sure you have a good machinist and go .20 over and you will be set</TD></TR></TABLE>

everything else go oem, oem bearings, gaskets, oil pump, water pump, timing belt.

20yrsToMidnight

thanks for the responses guys.. really oem bearings?

0morgan@synapse motorsport

oem or acl

VtecCarHauler

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20yrsToMidnight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looking to do a mild build and mostly just the bottom end.. I've done plenty of research on the different companies and their prices. I just want something that i can run about 300 hp for many years to come. Ive also been in the game long enough to know whatever can go wrong most likely will as my stock b18b is begging for a rebuild after 6 months of low boost. Anyways what would be the most cost efficient combo of parts for my bottom end rebuild.. Of course the tuning aspect will not be skimped on since its the most important "part" you can buy. Thanks ladies and gents</TD></TR></TABLE>


bottom-end

-Camp 1320 was selling CP's and Eagles for about $800 or less shipped
-Oem bearings are like $10 each bearing plus thrust washers
-new oil pump OEM
-oil pan gasket
-ARP head studs? if you are going to put pistons&rods go for more than 300whp
-balance crank
-plasti gauge all bearings
-oil catch can
-cometic head gasket
-go 81.5mm bore
-there's some other things I forgot

top

-valve springs & retainers
-good valve job (make sure deck is flat)

If you do all that running only 300whp would be a crime to your engine. Sorry that's how I feel. You could probably do a stock rebuild with a valve springs & retainers, head gasket and headstuds and be fine for a longtime on a conservative tune. Everything else like turbo set-up, ecu program, and whatever is in the air.

BLK JDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zeimbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eagle rods, cp or wiseco pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>

What he said, just add some ARP headstuds and you're good to go!!

zexxbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLK JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What he said, just add some ARP headstuds and you're good to go!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
aebs headstuds ftw. people have been having problems with the arp headstuds backing out or turning. pretty much the same price

tony1

There's nothing wrong with ARP head studs...

zexxbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's nothing wrong with ARP head studs...</TD></TR></TABLE>

o rly?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1857562

ive had a couple issues with them too. but either way, theres nothing wrong with aebs headstuds either, so why not use them instead?

turbociviccoupe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's nothing wrong with ARP head studs...</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

zexxbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbociviccoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">x2</TD></TR></TABLE>

x3.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1804795

so why not use the aebs studs? people havent had any problems with them and they are both equally good. aebs ftw

tony1

I could care less what problems people like to blame on their studs. I've personally built a lot of honda motors and i'd say a good 95% of them have ARP head studs with no problems. When **** goes wrong, people always have to point the finger at something. Studs don't just loosen up for no reason.

90dxhmt

iTrader: (1)

Just becuase you read something on Hondatech dont take it as truth.Tens of thousands of people have been using ARP studs for years and they work great.

20yrsToMidnight

Yeah well damn i've had the arp's sitting in my room for a good 3 months now, i hope they will be ok, and i also have a honda oem head gasket. With a 81.5mm bore the gasket would need to be modified correct? Thanks for all the replies guys; exactly what i was looking for.

0morgan@synapse motorsport

gasket should work perfect, so will the arps

onepuff

Check out this site for a rod piston combo. best price i found when i got them. Definitely get oversized pistons. your stock sleeves will probably be out of round and need bored out anyway. Happened to me and i had to ebay the set of 81mm pistons i bought. Eagle rod/wiseco piston combo just survived a split cylinder at around 17 psi. Wish i had the money for some good sleeves.

http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

20yrsToMidnight

wow that site has wiesco 81.5's and eagle h beams with rings for 699... sound good to anyone else?

eg crunkmonster

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20yrsToMidnight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow that site has wiesco 81.5's and eagle h beams with rings for 699... sound good to anyone else?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

699 is a good price but do u really trust them, check out the sponsors classified forum on here, i got mine from the late and great Earl. and as far as the headgasket, u just need a regular OEM headgasket for a 81.5mm bore, I remember reading the OEM 81mm HGs are really 81.5mm

and ive also used ARP headstuds for years now with no problems, user error is probably the reason to blame

onepuff

I have gotten quite a few things from them. The website does look kind of outdated but I had no problems with them at all. Parts arrived pretty quick too.

ExospeedAMcrx

for 300hp. Pistons and rods are sufficient for a long term use. Proper machining and measurement of bearing clearances using OEM bearings also would be a good idea.

concentrate on the tuning aspect of the setup to make this a long lasting engine for everyday use.

ninesecrx

I will stick up for ARP head bolts as well. Like Tony said, a lot of the time it is the way the end user installed them. As for their main studs, they work ok, but you definitely can not go off their tq. specs because from what I have seen, it either messes up the clearance or freezes the crank but that is a whole new issue. ACL bearings work real good and will save you some cash. 2 things to point out with those. Do not just go by stock works great because the rest of the motor is not stock at that point. Also remember ACL is a quality manufacture that DOES make OEM bearings for manufactures like Subaru. Good luck with the build. Sorry if I got off topic.

HiProfile

I stuck a complete set of ACL's in my d16 yesterday after micropolishing the crank & using eagle rods, everything was w/in the Helm's service limit, albeit a bit loose (as I wanted). Only #3 main was .0021, were the limit was .0020. I'm going to get OEM's for that one if I can.

All I'd say about arp's coming loose, it would probably be from dirty/oily threads below, not going in sequence, or not removing the head to put arp's in. There's also the fact that certain harmonics (as in detonation) could in theory unsrcew them.

ninesecrx

#3 is supposed to be a little more loose then the rest.