to bore or not to bore?
that is the question.... b18c jdm gsr. Going to run turbo. going to get JE pistons, and Crower rods. Can i just slap in the pistons and rods? How do i determine if i need to overbore or not?
Ran the turbo on the stock gsr for like 300 miles and the piston rings were gone.... should i be worried about the cylinder walls?
Ran the turbo on the stock gsr for like 300 miles and the piston rings were gone.... should i be worried about the cylinder walls?
Its better to do the job right one time than to do it wrong over and over. Pull it and take it to a respectable machine shop. If you wasted the internals there is a good chance you mushroom shaped the cylinder walls.
what's your definition of wasting the internals? because physically the pistons and rods were fine, it was just the pisont rings that went bad. Does that count as wasting the internals?
How many miles on the motor? What is your setup? If it's a low mileage motor for a very mild setup, maybe you can get away with re-ring the motor. Remember, the most expensive part of the build up is the labour. So I won't cheap out on parts. Get it overbored if I were you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB16ACRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what's your definition of wasting the internals? because physically the pistons and rods were fine, it was just the pisont rings that went bad. Does that count as wasting the internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If the ring were shot to begin with than no. But if the turbo is what caused the failure then it is quite possible to damage the block also. Without a bore gauge you will never know. That is unitl your new motor you just built begins to smoke.
If the ring were shot to begin with than no. But if the turbo is what caused the failure then it is quite possible to damage the block also. Without a bore gauge you will never know. That is unitl your new motor you just built begins to smoke.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green_GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many miles on the motor? What is your setup? If it's a low mileage motor for a very mild setup, maybe you can get away with re-ring the motor. Remember, the most expensive part of the build up is the labour. So I won't cheap out on parts. Get it overbored if I were you.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the motor has about 40k, but basically we're going to go with aftermarket pistons and rods... labor is no biggy cuz i've done a dozen of these, the only thing that i don't understand is whether to bore or not, and if i do...how much? etc. etc.
Usually when we do this, we've never had to bore, but this motor is gonna see at least 15lbs of boost on a regular basis, not daily, but regularly.
Setup...hm... t3/t4 turbo with all the goodies involved, going towards je pistons & crower rods (don't know CR yet), leaning toward a block guard ( i know how some of u feel about it), 450cc inj. 255lp fuel pump, aem rail, b&m regulator, fluidyne radiator & fal fan, heading towards hondata, but yea...
Fullthrottle: so basically i need to have a machine shop look at it?
the motor has about 40k, but basically we're going to go with aftermarket pistons and rods... labor is no biggy cuz i've done a dozen of these, the only thing that i don't understand is whether to bore or not, and if i do...how much? etc. etc.
Usually when we do this, we've never had to bore, but this motor is gonna see at least 15lbs of boost on a regular basis, not daily, but regularly.
Setup...hm... t3/t4 turbo with all the goodies involved, going towards je pistons & crower rods (don't know CR yet), leaning toward a block guard ( i know how some of u feel about it), 450cc inj. 255lp fuel pump, aem rail, b&m regulator, fluidyne radiator & fal fan, heading towards hondata, but yea...
Fullthrottle: so basically i need to have a machine shop look at it?
If you are going through all the work of building it up its not much more of a hassle to have the block looked at. Its worth it to know that its right on the inside.
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