dsturch1

I just picked up a boosted d series del sol today and I want to throw a fresh set of plugs in it but i'm not sure what gap to put the plugs at??

Swipe'd

depending on how much boost bkre7xi or bkre8xi

NGK irridium onlys!

SOHC_MShue

Screw irridiums. Copper is the way to go. BKR7E's work fine for lower power.

HiProfile

Irridiums are long-milage plugs. The irridiums on the IS300's my friends and sister have are spec'd for a 60,000 mile service life. Plain copper electrodes give the least additional resistance, obviously at the expense of service life.

Nobody puts a turbo on a Honda (or any other car) in order to make it last 4 times as lone.

PrecisionH23a

bcpr7es ngk 3330

Swipe'd

well when i call'd NGK myself thats wut the rep told me.. but ok, call them urself n find out..

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swipe’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well when i call'd NGK myself thats wut the rep told me.. but ok, call them urself n find out..</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'd tell you that too in order to push some plugs that were 5 times as expensive as the coppers

Swipe'd

so wut, u get wut u pay for, end of story!

u pay 2 play... these plugs u wont hafta replace.. end of story...

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swipe’d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so wut, u get wut u pay for, end of story!

u pay 2 play... these plugs u wont hafta replace.. end of story...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll take better performance and buy a cheap set of plugs every once and a while over a poorer performing iridium plug that lasts longer.

Here is a good quote from Joseph Davis explaining why they suck

"Alright, *** nog, I gave you a two word answer before rushing out to work. There's a bunch of things going on here. Ignoring a LOT of things... inductive resistance plugs meant for CDIs, heat range, desireable electrode material (short of coil on plug it's a nonsense argument), etc etc. I'm just scratching the surface here. Put on your waders:

1) Center electrode design.

To help with max coil charging, you want the hardest to jump air gap possible. From an electrical side of things, sharp edges or points help electricity arc over, and keeps the coil from building power for that extra instant. This is the #1 reason why you do not want a pointy dot center electrode, and why you want a broad faced center electrode.

Also. To help with heat dissipation, and to prevent your plug from turning into a big fat hotspot that induces pre-ignition, you want a broad faced center electrode. None of that pointy ****.

Here:

Gay.

Merely effeminant.

Grizzled and manly.

Common rule of thumb is that platinum or iridium is useless, and leaves men with fast cars questioning if you aren't a closet homo based on your plug selection. There are platinum coated real electrode plugs out there, but they are not common. Copper, steel, silver-nickel; these are the center electrode choice of manly men.

NGK V-power causes spark to start at the outside edges of the center electrode, allowing the flame kernel to be exposed to much more air-fuel than otherwise possible. They also maintain a larger center electrode to help with heat dissipation and to avoid the hotspot and extreme conductivity problems associated with pinprick electrodes.


"

1992Si

Run NGK BKR7E's for low power they come gap'ed at .028.

As you increase boost close the gap.

Cheap plug that does the job. It's real that simple. Besides it's not like it's difficult to replace them.

Swipe'd

bump this learn something new,

sry i was mis-informed from ngk themselves..

so wut plugs should be used?

Turbo-charged

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Run NGK BKR7E's for low power they come gap'ed at .028.

As you increase boost close the gap.

Cheap plug that does the job. It's real that simple. Besides it's not like it's difficult to replace them.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha there is a honda performance shop around here that charged one of their customers an hour labor to change spark plugs. he is now our customer lol

1992Si

An hour labor.

It took two hours to change the plugs on my 05 Legacy GT. Boxer engine, lower in the frame.

Any pro that takes longer then 10 minutes to change plugs on a Honda 4 cylinder is milking the job.

Good Luck at the track tonight Joe, if you got a truck...

platinum00

BKR7E's

great cheap plug to support 450+whp

platinum.

mike93eh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BKR7E's

great cheap plug to support 450+whp

platinum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

7's were too hot for me..

so which is it?

irridium resistor 8's

or

copper non-resistor 8's ?

platinum00

Heat range is a totally different discussion. That depends on your setup and the amount of power your making.

It's not a question of "so which is it". It's whatever works for you. If spending 3-4 times as much on a plug gives you peace of mind then by all means do it.

The cheaper NGK's have been proven and work for most.

-platinum.

1992Si

Mike.... don't you have your own thread/post here somewhere where we disscussed this.

maxxd97

iTrader: (1)

BKR7Es gapped at .028 for me.

TunerShark

BKR7E's FTW

bought a 10 pack for like 20 bucks =D

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

7's were too hot for me..

so which is it?

irridium resistor 8's

or

copper non-resistor 8's ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've been running ngk r5672a-9 plugs in the little bastard.

mike93eh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've been running ngk r5672a-9 plugs in the little bastard.</TD></TR></TABLE>

crome or s300?

turbocivic1

ok i hade a d16z6 engine built 9 to 1 compression for my turbo i am going to run 20 to 24 lbs of boost what should i run for spark plugs

Rtboy10

cheap ngk's are the way to go just change them more frequently. Whip factory a shop near me actually recommends changing your plugs ever oil change

arc_55

ngk coppers v-power in my opinion are a very good plug. Also you have to remeber when tuning checking plugs consitently is all apart of it and a set of new plugs is alot easier to read. So keeping that in mind replacing with high dollar plugs can really add up. I would only put them in to possibly help the quality of idle.

I just did a stock sohc zc non-vtec that made 240whp @ 212ft.lbs and based on the setup it accepted 7's .... in terms of selecting them for you setup you might only know where to start but you might also be jumping heat ranges one direction or the other. Your tuner should be able to aid you in selecting the proper plusg for your setup.

accord_raffi

ya i'm doing a low boost setup for my accord. about to start the build now that i'm out of college. it's a low boost setup about 6-8psi. any suggestions on the right plugs or should i just talk to my tuner when i go down to the dyno?