hey everyone i am writing in this forum because it is a turboed car and the second issue might be directly related to this

1. the car has a lightened flywheel (4.2 kg) the engine does sometimes stall when the clutch is put in from a high rpm and put into neutral. is this a common problem and how could this be fixed???

2. the car is a low milage gsr on 8psi from an intercooled greddy kit, the check engine light sometimes comes on, and the code is for a misfire. could an ignition system solve this problem or is there an underlying issue??

thanks a lot FI guys

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey everyone i am writing in this forum because it is a turboed car and the second issue might be directly related to this

1. the car has a lightened flywheel (4.2 kg) the engine does sometimes stall when the clutch is put in from a high rpm and put into neutral. is this a common problem and how could this be fixed???

2. the car is a low milage gsr on 8psi from an intercooled greddy kit, the check engine light sometimes comes on, and the code is for a misfire. could an ignition system solve this problem or is there an underlying issue??

thanks a lot FI guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like your problems are from the greddy blue box. Get a real standalone to solve these issues. I have a 7lb flywheel and never have a problem as you describe.

 

I was wondering the same thing (I have the same problem once in awhile)....every now and then when putting the car into neutral from high rpm's, it stalls out.

 

what kind of stand alone should i get? and how much will everything (install, tuning if nessecary) cost me?

 

Ever looked into Uberdata?

 

i have the same issues, so any answers would be helpful me too

 

i briefly looked at hondata s100 with boost control

with this be sufficient?? or

 

The stalling problem could be a dirty IAC(bottom of the throttle body). Remove it and clean the screen, that was the problem with mine. There is also another unit on the back of the IM that you should remove and clean also. I can't remember the name of it, having a serious brain fart right now.

 

the car barely has 15k miles so i hope its not dirty in the throttle body

is the hondata s100 with boost control a good enough system - i dont plan on getting extreme with the boost either 10psi max maybe

 

It is not the flywheel, tuning and ignition and the IACV would be a solid start.

 

so you think ignition would help the problem?

could explain the IACV and point me in the right direction of one?

thanks

 

see i got a 6 lb flywheel and my car does the same, but its also on blue box (for a couple more weeks). but its built, and a lot of upgrades including msd sci 6al, msd cap, and msd coil. and i still get misfire codes even though my car runs just fine and i have no issues with its performance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodohcsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see i got a 6 lb flywheel and my car does the same, but its also on blue box (for a couple more weeks). but its built, and a lot of upgrades including msd sci 6al, msd cap, and msd coil. and i still get misfire codes even though my car runs just fine and i have no issues with its performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds like we have very similar problems - help us out!!

 

the sensor underneath the tb is not the iac, its the fitv, the iacv is on the back side of the intake manifold.

keep on adjusting the idle to corect this problem, its gonna take a couple of tries

for the misfire part, try changing out the plugs and wires and cap and rotor first, and then go from there

 

Lightweight flywheels CAN cause you to stall out...

When a stock engine is decelerating,it is at a rate that the ECU can react to in time and add fuel at the right moment to keep it from stalling and to idle...

When a lightened flywheel equipped engine decelerates, it can do so at a faster rate...The ECU cannot always catch it in time...Its reaction time is not good enough...Then the engine will stall.

You can fix this with any standalone...You may be able to help it by manually raising the idle on your TB's...

 

Oh yeah and that misfiring code is NOT good...I would immediately turn the boost down until you have it tuned perfectly...If not,you will eventually blow the engine...

Keep your foot out of it too until you figure why its misfiring...

 

right, thats what i was thinking, but if this other guy is anything like me, we are more worried about the misfire codes. i have brand new plugs in there, and the rest is new msd components. i heard that haveing the msd ignition setup will make you throw a misfire code because the factory coil is not in there, and some sensor reads a different voltage comeing from the msd coil then the factory coil and throws the misfire code.

 

I dont see why a MSD would cause it to misfire...The coil only sends voltage to the spark plugs.There is no sensor that reads coil voltage...This is why having a bad coil or even NO coil wont cause a CEL...

This misfiring code is being thrown because the ECU sees that during a combustion event,insufficient power was produced via the crank fluctuation sensor...
When does the code come on..Light throttle? WOT? What do your plugs look like? White? Tan? Dark?

 

almost brand new still, but a lil tan. and it pretty much comes on at idle, or very light throttle maybe.

 

bump for me and dude

 

1. get a heavier flywheel?

2. did you change your spark plugs to colder ones?

 

Ok, if you clear the codes and it only comes on at idle then something is not right under idle conditions...

Fuel pressure set ok? If it was spark related, I would think it would happen at higher rpms and under heavy load when the ignition system is most stressed...

Compression ok? Im not sure how the blue box operates but this may cause it also...good luck!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car barely has 15k miles so i hope its not dirty in the throttle body

is the hondata s100 with boost control a good enough system - i dont plan on getting extreme with the boost either 10psi max maybe</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should check out Uberdata...here are some price comparisons for UD vs Hondata.

UBERDATA
$55-$85 Willem burner on http://www.ebay.com or BURN1 burner http://www.moates.net
$15 http://www.moates.net UBER1 ecu chipping kit (everything you need to chip your ECU)
$25 send your ECU to moates and they'll install the UBER1 kit for you
$2-$15 Cell phone data cable--solder it into your ECU to make allow it to datalog moates might do it for you too
$330 PLX 300 wideband O2 kit--you can use any WB setup, this is the one I'm getting


HONDATA
$495 - Hondata S200 with boost option
$25-$85 to pay somebody to chip your ECU
$330 PLX 300 WB O2 kit


That's a rundown of how much it would cost to get each system. In both cases you'll probably want to get bigger injectors, a better ignition system and also some dyno tuning. If you want more info on Uberdata check out the links in my sig.

 

thanks for everyones help - i am really new to the FI part of tuning so all the help is greatly appriciated

the gsr in question is not mine - but i am looking to buy it

are the problems mentioned too severe or would hondata or something similar make the car run safe with tuning?

 

bump