OK, I put this turbo on my 91 CRX, with the stock d16a6, about a month ago. I'm running a vortech FMU, I know its not the best but its what I got. just recently it started having this really bad miss. When it starts missing below 3500 it just bucks and doesn't want to go anywhere until you get to about 4000 then it takes off. 4000 and up you can still feel it, but the cars moves, you just feel it miss slightly. I thought maybe the coil, so I put on and MSD cap and external coil. it still does it, so I got colder plugs(thinking the plugs maybe fouled) helped a very little bit, but still does it. I know the car is running lean. I used a 5 gas analyzer at school and the A/F was high, about 23.7, and all other gasses indicated a lean condition. the plugs I took out where tan on the electrode, but the rest of the plug(that goes in the combustion chamber) was black. could the lean condition cause this problem? Is there anyway to test my FMU to see if its working? if I get my ECU chipped what should I get exactly? I don't plan on running this motor for ever, I'm building a GSR for turbo, and I'm going to use hondata. Is there any way I can use the same hondata system on this motor that I can use on the GSR in the future? I know I need to convert it to OBD1, but I'm not sure what parts I need for my d16 to do it. thank you for any help, this is driving me crazy.

 

you can run a d16y7 dizzy on an a6, and convert to obd1 (wiring coversion harness, usually around 100 buck), and then run hondata. your going to have to pay for a tune though.

turboedit is your easiest answer, but you need to learn how to tune it.

sounds like it simply needs to be tuned and sorted out.

 

sweet. I didn't even think about that. I was wondering what obd1 parts I could use on the a6 and didn't even think about a y7. is that a 92-95 dx? also like i said its breaking up real bad below 3500, thats not even near boost. would the turbo be causing that? it didn't do it before, but it started a couple weeks after the turbo install.

 

d16y7 = 96-00 sohc non-vtec

The only oddball distributor that doesn't bolt up to the a6 head is the d16z6. The 92-95 1.5L non-vtec distributors bolt up fine and all d-series obd2 distributors work too (wiring is a little different for obd2 distributors but they'll work in place of an obd1).

As far as hondata, just chip your ecu and run crome/uberdata for now (if you go obd1). If you want to stay obd0 go with turboedit.

Um.. i forgot your other questions, those are the main ones though.

 

sweet thanks. but if I did change to obd1 I could use the hondata on the d16 then gsr when it goes in, right? I would just have to change maps? My other question was, would the turbo make it run like this even when I'm not boosting, just cruising, or even taking off slowly?

 

you have a bad fmu my buddy has one on his b18 and it does the same problem after 4500rpms it kicks in before 4500rpms it doesnt want to go anywhere ...take it apart and put it back together and check the vac lines to make sure there is no leak. plus lower your gap on the spark plugs

 

A/F is 23.7 geezus!

 

I was wondering if the fmu was working properly. It just didn't seem to be doing its job. and up higher in the rpms it just feels like it runs out of fuel and falls on its face. I was thinking either the stock fpr was bad or the fmu. I'll try cleaning it. hope it works. thanks. And I'll check the gab in the plugs too.



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveb91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A/F is 23.7 geezus!</TD></TR></TABLE> I know right. its crazy. all the numbers were WAY lean. it scares me

 

If you value the at all stop driving it.