Boosted D16A1
07-29-2007, 08:24 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN, United States
Posts: 2,905
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Boosted D16A1
D16A1 from (and going back into) 89 Integra
75.5mm bore
86/87 rods
88/89 Nippon P29 pistons
Line bore crank journals
Balance crank, rods, etc
P&P head and intake manifold
272 intake, 260 exhaust cams from Delta
CT26 turbo at 6 PSI
Tuned by myself with Turboedit
What do you think? Pulling the motor tomorrow to get started. I need to know what injectors to use, and pick up an HF manifold. Also, what oil weight would you recommend?
75.5mm bore
86/87 rods
88/89 Nippon P29 pistons
Line bore crank journals
Balance crank, rods, etc
P&P head and intake manifold
272 intake, 260 exhaust cams from Delta
CT26 turbo at 6 PSI
Tuned by myself with Turboedit
What do you think? Pulling the motor tomorrow to get started. I need to know what injectors to use, and pick up an HF manifold. Also, what oil weight would you recommend?
07-29-2007, 08:49 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA, USA
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Boosted D16A1 (InvaderTrax)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D16A1 from (and going back into) 89 Integra
75.5mm bore
86/87 rods
88/89 Nippon P29 pistons
Line bore crank journals
Balance crank, rods, etc
P&P head and intake manifold
272 intake, 260 exhaust cams from Delta
CT26 turbo at 6 PSI
Tuned by myself with Turboedit
What do you think? Pulling the motor tomorrow to get started. I need to know what injectors to use, and pick up an HF manifold. Also, what oil weight would you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're using a CT26, which is prob. beat up to hell and back then DSM 450s is your equally ghetto answer. Also you'd need a toyota adaptor plate for the HF, that is if it fit on the d16a1, which iirc it wont.
75.5mm bore
86/87 rods
88/89 Nippon P29 pistons
Line bore crank journals
Balance crank, rods, etc
P&P head and intake manifold
272 intake, 260 exhaust cams from Delta
CT26 turbo at 6 PSI
Tuned by myself with Turboedit
What do you think? Pulling the motor tomorrow to get started. I need to know what injectors to use, and pick up an HF manifold. Also, what oil weight would you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you're using a CT26, which is prob. beat up to hell and back then DSM 450s is your equally ghetto answer. Also you'd need a toyota adaptor plate for the HF, that is if it fit on the d16a1, which iirc it wont.
07-29-2007, 09:24 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Knoxville, TN, United States
Posts: 2,905
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
It'll bolt to an A1, and I just have to gasket match it to make it completely line up. I was going to make my own adapter plate for the turbo. I wasn't sure if 450 would be too much or not
07-30-2007, 06:19 AM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ashEVILle, NC, USSR
Posts: 4,417
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Boosted D16A1 (InvaderTrax)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D16A1 from (and going back into) 89 Integra
75.5mm bore
86/87 rods
88/89 Nippon P29 pistons
Line bore crank journals
Balance crank, rods, etc
P&P head and intake manifold
272 intake, 260 exhaust cams from Delta
CT26 turbo at 6 PSI
Tuned by myself with Turboedit
What do you think? Pulling the motor tomorrow to get started. I need to know what injectors to use, and pick up an HF manifold. Also, what oil weight would you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Intentionally selecting 86-87 rods is useless. They "look" beefier... they also "look" cruder and of lower quality. No one has ever made any better reliable power off of them than with 88+ rods. Run 'em if it's what is in your engine, don't waste your time seeking them out.
Why line bore the crank journals? Better off finding a block that hasn't been abused.
Why balance the crank and the rods? They are generally excellent pieces that don't need balancing.
Why port and polish your head? They are generally excellent from the factory, and with a 6 psi target... heh. You could turn up the boost to 7 psi, make more power than off porting and polishing, accrue zero loss in reliability, and save yourself a whole lot of time and effort.
Cams may/may not be a decent idea, D16A1 isn't as strangles by the factory cam as it's big brother the LS is. Deltas are inexpensive and work well for what they are, though. It's up to you.
Frankly, I'd do without every last bit of crap I criticised (including the cams) and save a few bucks on Eagles and Vitaras. Your CR will be a hair on the low side with the bigger A1 combustion chamber, but that won't affect your spool time and it will make your setup much more resilient and detonation-proof. Get a bigger MAP sensor and turn the boost up and enjoy the car - if built/tuned right it won't be any less reliable than the build you have planned.
75.5mm bore
86/87 rods
88/89 Nippon P29 pistons
Line bore crank journals
Balance crank, rods, etc
P&P head and intake manifold
272 intake, 260 exhaust cams from Delta
CT26 turbo at 6 PSI
Tuned by myself with Turboedit
What do you think? Pulling the motor tomorrow to get started. I need to know what injectors to use, and pick up an HF manifold. Also, what oil weight would you recommend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Intentionally selecting 86-87 rods is useless. They "look" beefier... they also "look" cruder and of lower quality. No one has ever made any better reliable power off of them than with 88+ rods. Run 'em if it's what is in your engine, don't waste your time seeking them out.
Why line bore the crank journals? Better off finding a block that hasn't been abused.
Why balance the crank and the rods? They are generally excellent pieces that don't need balancing.
Why port and polish your head? They are generally excellent from the factory, and with a 6 psi target... heh. You could turn up the boost to 7 psi, make more power than off porting and polishing, accrue zero loss in reliability, and save yourself a whole lot of time and effort.
Cams may/may not be a decent idea, D16A1 isn't as strangles by the factory cam as it's big brother the LS is. Deltas are inexpensive and work well for what they are, though. It's up to you.
Frankly, I'd do without every last bit of crap I criticised (including the cams) and save a few bucks on Eagles and Vitaras. Your CR will be a hair on the low side with the bigger A1 combustion chamber, but that won't affect your spool time and it will make your setup much more resilient and detonation-proof. Get a bigger MAP sensor and turn the boost up and enjoy the car - if built/tuned right it won't be any less reliable than the build you have planned.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hatchinprogress
Forced Induction
5
12-23-2005 11:13 AM
