Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Rich

I see. Im hoping to have no problems with them. I don't really have a choice but to run them now

hondad6

Any reputable company will not say, "yes use our parts," if they are known to fail in the setup you describe. Word of mouth ,or internet, can kill a company's sales. Ferrea is a good reputable company they wont steer ya wrong.
Good looking start. You gonna run stock sleeves? If so i recommend water methanol injection.

rich7777

Exactly... that's what went through my head to.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Yes stock sleeves and 91 oct. I wanted to start looking into water meth injection cause I know it will be better then pump gas and there's no where with e85 around me so that's not really an option

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

This not about Ferrea per say, I run their 6000 series valves. But if you speak to people who build engines for a living or race, they don't recommend those 5000 series valves. They are good for the 190 whp NA guys.

I'm not going to take this off track, but the op posted a question and rather than high five and backslap, I thought it would be more constructive to at least mention he was running a so-so part. As for calling the manufacturer, that is how you conduct your business. I have a difference in opinion.

rich7777

I see your point and they may well be no good for him. I don't disagree with that.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

As I said I wanted ALL input anyone had on my build and I appreciate it. I have sent ferrea an email just to see what they will say.

Anyone else have any input on the valves for my build? As I said before though I don't gave any more money to throw into this build especially after I just paid for the valve job on those on those valves. I know I don't want to drop a valve and have my while build ruined, but does anyone else believe those valves will fail?

Also I'd like to get some good info/input/pros/cons if someone can please help on water meth injection for my setup, or hopefully soon when I decide to upgrade turbo and injectors. I searched but can't really find any good info especially on turbo Honda set ups. Like I said e85s not really an option because the closest pump to me is like 50 miles away.

Thanks again everyone

rich7777

Scroll down

http://www.ferrea.com/Ferrea_SCC_Catalog.pdf

a flat face design.


Now we need to find out what exactly do they mean by "direct replacement" as stock valves have proven to hold up well.

HatchVX

Looking like a killer build, cant wait to see the numbers

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Thanks. Me either lol

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

See link below specifically post 13.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/ferrea-valve-springs-skunk2-pro-1-cams-3028192/

See 4piston's page.

http://team4piston.com/valvesB.html

rich7777

How he drives the car will play a massive part in if there OK or not. The problem we have is heat with the ex valves. Short bursts he should be fine, long continuous pulls arent a good idea. Those bronze guides will help lower the valve temps a bit. I recommend runnig some kind of octane raiser for sure so the ignition timing can be run at MBT safely i.e. Meth/water. The more retarded the ignition timing the hotter the exhaust side of the chamber is.

rich7777

Damn, i do admit i got caught out by there series at first DC4LSTEG. I thought the 5000 was the middle series for some reason.

Just be carefull man and play it safe if you can. Good things come to those who wait

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

The 6000 series are the way to go. When I needed new valves, I spoke with 2 of the best head porters in the country and told me to get the 6000 series valves. Also, one of my best friends who is a engine builder, tuner, and fabricator told me not to use 5000 series valves as they tend to hold heat and were not good for 9K+ rpms.

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

For sure.

OP, check with some engine builder.

hondad6

You can talk to these guys about water methanol. I have never had a problem with them. I have ordered a few parts from them.
http://thmotorsports.com/aem/aem_wat...t/g-52938.aspx

Idk what kind of controller it needs

This thread has a lot of info too

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/my-b18c1-engine-build-assembly-2951496/

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The AEM meth / water kit has its own controller, that the tuner uses in conjunction with tuning the engine management. It is a progressive system (meaning the amount of meth water changes as boost pressure changes,

While companies like Devil's own, and Aquamist use more of an "on-off" approach.

Calidad's thread has an entire introduction of the use of Meth/water

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Shodan ill take a look at calidads thread

hondad6

Good luck it is about 90 pages now lol

Whiterice-gsr

u could get away with just reading the last 30 or so but the whole thing is a good read.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Read through some of it last night will read though more of it today.

Finally got my dial bore gauge and can start doing my bearing clearances today

Anyone have any input on using aluminum retainers on my build vs titanium? Aluminum ones are stronger?

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Anyone know what I should set my main and rod bearing clearances to? Looser side of OEM specs?

rich7777

What oil do you plan to use? 5w 30 ?

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Most likely 10w 30

rich7777

I'd run the clearances at the loose end but I'd step up to a 40 weight oil. It will offer you better protection if things get a little hot. I'm not a fan of 30 weight oil in a boosted engine but each to there own i guess. I've found a lot of people over here don't even run 30 weight oil in stock - lightly modded engines. It's normally 5w 40 NA and either 5w 40 or 10w 50 in a boosted engine (depending on oil temperature) .

You Americans seem to pretty much stick to 5w 30. This is from my experience anyway..

See what a few of the others recommend to.