Boost Creep or Solenoid Issue?
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Boost Creep or Solenoid Issue?
What would be a more effective method of trying to alleviate boost creep with my Ramhorn. I was creeping from 15 to 20psi last winter on the dyno off the wastegate spring, come to find out I had a 38mm hole in my manifold with a 44mm flange welded over it, so I bored it out to 43-44mm and all summer long I was holding a nice steady 15.5-16.0psi using a 13lb spring with the PWM on but not used, fast forward 4 months later its once again winter and once again I am creeping again, this time from 16psi @ 6500rpm to 22psi by 8500rpm with my PWM turned off completely. Only difference is I now have a 4" tube 90'd of my turbo that runs out behind my bumper and draws air from out there.
So this brings me to my question, I would like to just cut off my existing WG flange (just 90'd off the manifold, no tear drop shape to the WG exit, hard for gases to escape) and get a Tial 60mm and be done with it, but when I took a 60mm pipe and placed it over my Ex flange it looks like I am going to be hacking up my collector pretty good to fit the 60, do any of you see an issue with this? I really like the look and simplicity of one 60mm, but if it is a better idea to run an additional 44m gate instead of the single 60mm I will do that too. I have seen people like Joe Simpson add a second WG to the side of ramhorns, would this be a better choice?
Both methods will roughly cost within $50 of each other (60mm is like $575, I would sell my ex. 44mm for $250 and have to invest $325) or just buy an additional 44mm gate ($375 or so)
Or do I sell this manifold and buy one that doesnt creep? That option will cost me 2x options 1 and 2, so that is not one I would really like to look into right now.......
I have not checked yet to see if my PWM Solenoid is to blame for this, maybe it was possibly leaking or stuck partially open? I have it un activated in the software. One odd thing to mention is I have a very odd Solenoid, for some reason it acts oppositie of how it should, if I select type as normally closed in the software it acts normally open and vice versa, that is another issue entirely. I would like the ability to run 13psi in my lower gears and I see no other way to make that happen than to do some pretty drastic wastegate modifications.
So this brings me to my question, I would like to just cut off my existing WG flange (just 90'd off the manifold, no tear drop shape to the WG exit, hard for gases to escape) and get a Tial 60mm and be done with it, but when I took a 60mm pipe and placed it over my Ex flange it looks like I am going to be hacking up my collector pretty good to fit the 60, do any of you see an issue with this? I really like the look and simplicity of one 60mm, but if it is a better idea to run an additional 44m gate instead of the single 60mm I will do that too. I have seen people like Joe Simpson add a second WG to the side of ramhorns, would this be a better choice?
Both methods will roughly cost within $50 of each other (60mm is like $575, I would sell my ex. 44mm for $250 and have to invest $325) or just buy an additional 44mm gate ($375 or so)
Or do I sell this manifold and buy one that doesnt creep? That option will cost me 2x options 1 and 2, so that is not one I would really like to look into right now.......
I have not checked yet to see if my PWM Solenoid is to blame for this, maybe it was possibly leaking or stuck partially open? I have it un activated in the software. One odd thing to mention is I have a very odd Solenoid, for some reason it acts oppositie of how it should, if I select type as normally closed in the software it acts normally open and vice versa, that is another issue entirely. I would like the ability to run 13psi in my lower gears and I see no other way to make that happen than to do some pretty drastic wastegate modifications.
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i think it would be easier if you just went and brought a new manifold with the provisions you want and have them under warrenty just in case. some companies are cool and will let you switch manis to try a different however it depends on the company if they charge you a difference.
i think you should just tune in the extra 5-7psi.
i think you should just tune in the extra 5-7psi.
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have you tried just running off the wastegate alone? straight off the intake mani?
if that doesnt work im sure twin 38's or 44's would work fine.
some argue that wasgtegate placement on the turbo mani is to blame for creep as well.
if that doesnt work im sure twin 38's or 44's would work fine.
some argue that wasgtegate placement on the turbo mani is to blame for creep as well.
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I also stated I have poor WG placement currently......... My topic title is a little skewed, but if you read the thread I was asking about using one 60mm gate or adding an additional 44mm gate.
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i think it would be easier if you just went and brought a new manifold with the provisions you want and have them under warrenty just in case. some companies are cool and will let you switch manis to try a different however it depends on the company if they charge you a difference.
i think you should just tune in the extra 5-7psi.
i think you should just tune in the extra 5-7psi.
Not really, then I need to do downpipe modifications, oil return mods etc etc..... I had the opportunity in the summer to swap manifolds, but if you didnt notice the Neuking threads lately, I doubt that offer is still on the table............ I turned the offer down due to he fact that I though I alleviated the issue by boring out the hole in my manifold, I do not creep in hot air and the PWM turned ON just in cold air running off the wastegate.........
The extra 5-7 psi is tuned, but running 22psi (550whp) in 1st and 2nd gear isnt doing **** for traction for me, not to mention at 21-22psi my Duty is 100%
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in for answers
but than again every turbo car ive had always crept in cold weather, i just got used to it and took it as something that happens
but than again every turbo car ive had always crept in cold weather, i just got used to it and took it as something that happens
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I should use the term "creep" lightly in this thread, going from 16 to 22psi is a little bit more than creeping IMO, I went through the traps at 8500 and I hit 22psi right when I got out of the gas, I have a feeling it would keep rising if I kept reving it...........
My old old setup was a rev-hard manifold with a HKS 40mm WG, and it would only creep when it got cold, but we are talking about 2-3psi instantly, not rising steady with rpm.
My old old setup was a rev-hard manifold with a HKS 40mm WG, and it would only creep when it got cold, but we are talking about 2-3psi instantly, not rising steady with rpm.
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#8
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my wg spring is .5bar and i see as much as 13psi on a Cold night.... and it definetly goes up stedy with the RPM... on a normal night when its like 60-70 out i see about 10psi.. now i noticed you have that 4" mini ram intake correct?? youd be supprised what that can do....i know i picked up 2mph with one i made for my car...i never got to check the boost to see if it went up...there is a possibilty that its contributing to your creep... im no expert tho :p .... where are you getting your WG vacuume from? IM or directly from the turbo?
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Boost reference for the WG is on my cold side charge pipe right next to the endtank, not tee'd or anything. Boost reference for the Solenoid is from the IM........
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