By the book......
Just a suggestion for GE:
Since there is a decent amount of misinformation about turbo hondas out there, you should have a large FAQ section on your site. You could start off with just a few sections, covering things like head gaskets, head studs, oil pumps, proper motor break-in, piston to wall clearances, ring gaps, etc.
I'd bet many of your current and future customers would find the information very helpful, and it would keep you from having to repeat yourself over and over and over.
Since there is a decent amount of misinformation about turbo hondas out there, you should have a large FAQ section on your site. You could start off with just a few sections, covering things like head gaskets, head studs, oil pumps, proper motor break-in, piston to wall clearances, ring gaps, etc.
I'd bet many of your current and future customers would find the information very helpful, and it would keep you from having to repeat yourself over and over and over.
I suggest every turbo honda owner to get rid of AC
hahahaha
Don't flame me for this, but somehow, everyone that everyone who wants a turbo kit for their honda wants 450whp with very cold AC to drive back and forth from alaska to mexico
hahahahaDon't flame me for this, but somehow, everyone that everyone who wants a turbo kit for their honda wants 450whp with very cold AC to drive back and forth from alaska to mexico
so, are we confirm on 82 ft/lbs of torque ? I am sensing a lil headgasket leak due to mis-torque on the studs...Coincidentaly, I am planningon doing it tmw....
True true about ARP, me and some friends called all with GE blocks and ARP head studs, they advise to torque the studs to 70lb-ft then go through 10 yes 10 heat cycles of starting the motor and getting it up to operating temps then letting it cool down for 30 minutes then again. After the heat cycles retorque each stud by loosening one at a time then retoquing with 5 ft-lbs more 75 lb-ft total. This is the latest. I've talked to you Vince and can only imagine the calls you get I called last week and talked to you. Thanks for coming on the board and actually backing your product and providing tech assistance after the sale.
Sorry if I've bugged you.
me then.
Can someone please verify this (such as Viren or vaportrail). Ive got about 1100 miles on my GE block with ARP studs and they are torqued at 70. I never went back and re torqued them after 10 warm up periods. This is the first I have ever heard of this. So please some of the really experienced honda techs on here please post your opinions.
Sorry if I've bugged you.
me then.
Can someone please verify this (such as Viren or vaportrail). Ive got about 1100 miles on my GE block with ARP studs and they are torqued at 70. I never went back and re torqued them after 10 warm up periods. This is the first I have ever heard of this. So please some of the really experienced honda techs on here please post your opinions.
If Vince says ARP studs only hold 340~ hp, why would they recommend ARP studs with their blocks when obviously a lot of folks that get GE sleeved blocks is to have way more than 340hp...just curious...
Do you know of any other stud company that makes headstuds for Honda? I know of one and they are working with a competitor of mine. I am currently working with ARP to try to get some new materials in some headstuds that I can provide to you the consumers. Although the ARP's are only rated at about 350 - 400 HP, they are still better than stock!!! P.S., loose the sarcasm!!
No, no sarcasm...just making sure that was the case.
So pretty much ARP is all we can rely on for now and hope they hold...hmm...and what about the torqing mentioned by someone here that you recommend 82lbs? Is that true? Just making sure you confirm that.
Thanks for the info!
So pretty much ARP is all we can rely on for now and hope they hold...hmm...and what about the torqing mentioned by someone here that you recommend 82lbs? Is that true? Just making sure you confirm that.Thanks for the info!
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GQ Cowboy
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jun 27, 2002 03:21 PM



