X-Mazda 3 Racer

Listen everyone, there are a few things I want to vent about. First of all, when you turbo charge a Honda/Acura, there are a few things that you are going to have to do that go against what the " Book " says. That is just part of it. Think about it, you are turbo charging a car that was designed to get great gas milage and have low emissions. Turbo charging a Honda is NOT by the book!!! There are going to be a few hurdles that you have to jump in order to get everything the way you want them to be. When installing something as simple as a headgasket, talk to people with experience in the area in which you are working. Don't go to a Honda technician and ask him how to install a headgasket. Unless he has major experience with a turbo engine, he will tell you how to do it as the Honda manual specifies. Guess what, that gets thrown out the window with a turbo. Also, think about this for a minute, a typical B18C engine is 1.8L or 110 cubic inches. The ARP headstuds that you people buy are rated to only handle about 3.4 H.P. per cubic inch, that means that at 374 H.P., you have already maxed out you ARP's!!!

Some of you may not make that much H.P., but none the less, you must bend the rules a little. If you are using a sleeved block, things need to change about the install process. If you are using high comp. pistons, things need to change. If you are shooting NOS, things need to change.

All I am trying to say is please, don't be to arrogant to ask questions about your set-up. We all have had to learn this stuff by trial and error, but use someone's knowledge that has been there, done that. In the long run, it will help everyone out, including you!

Thanks for your time!
Vince Tiaga


[Modified by V8KILR, 12:25 AM 10/5/2002]


[Modified by V8KILR, 12:27 AM 10/5/2002]

technine

So true. People need to stop telling other people to do a search when the topic was not even discussed. I see to much "do a search idiot" kind of replies and even got some myself.

Just keep it coming with the help, and if you can't help, don't reply or say anything discouraging.



[Modified by technine, 11:48 PM 10/4/2002]

ekb18c

errrrr ok! right on Vince.

X-Mazda 3 Racer

ttt

SilverLudeSi

So what do you suggest we do for head studs?

TheSwift1

weld the head to the block..

shadowdawn

lmao, or oem

*Boostwerks*

......what in the hell provoked you bitch about that?

not a flame or ne thing.....just wondering.


(to tell you the truth I really don't know what your trying to get accross)

rjardy

i second that


Rob

SiRkid

maybe he is frustrated with a lot of mis information that floats around.

Boost2NA

Either that or hes just tired of getting called everyday and getting asked the same exact questions.

Boostfed

Prolly all the MISINFORMATION being put on boards. I spoke to Vince last week with some concerns him and his dad Ted are GREAT guys very professional and friendly. He said If I had ANY concerns or problems to please call. Golden Eagle

SiRkid

there is a shitload of wrong info people have..sometimes i wonder where they get it from cause even when i first began to learn.i didnt have some of the stupid info these people have....
there needs to be a faq for turbo honda's that someone needs to do.

kidkutz

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

im just wondering the same thing.

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

I guess it's tme to drill out the holes for the head studs and use larger studs...

boomslang

Please show us the calculations that you used to come to this conclusion.

X-Mazda 3 Racer

Sorry if it sounded like bitching! It is that I get about 6 calls a day answering questions that sound like " I asked this friend and he said.... " or " The Honda dealer told me that what you suggest is wrong! " so on and so forth. I am just trying to let people know that there must be a new thought process when you are working with a turbo car that is really built up.l I am just venting and trying to spread some new info.

Also, if you really want to get the specs on the ARP's, take five minutes and call them and talk to a tech. They will tell you all you need to know!

Boostfed

True true about ARP, me and some friends called all with GE blocks and ARP head studs, they advise to torque the studs to 70lb-ft then go through 10 yes 10 heat cycles of starting the motor and getting it up to operating temps then letting it cool down for 30 minutes then again. After the heat cycles retorque each stud by loosening one at a time then retoquing with 5 ft-lbs more 75 lb-ft total. This is the latest. I've talked to you Vince and can only imagine the calls you get I called last week and talked to you. Thanks for coming on the board and actually backing your product and providing tech assistance after the sale. Sorry if I've bugged you. me then.

Boost2NA

Can someone please verify this (such as Viren or vaportrail). Ive got about 1100 miles on my GE block with ARP studs and they are torqued at 70. I never went back and re torqued them after 10 warm up periods. This is the first I have ever heard of this. So please some of the really experienced honda techs on here please post your opinions.

Boostfed

My local shop called ARP directly soooo. Call em yourself and ask them hopefully they're not like some companies where you get different answers every time you call. This is what I've been instructed to do from a very reliable source. Any other input is appreciated though. I don't want to be one to spread misinformation either so. Vince told me directly it's not a bad idea after 1k miles to retorque and torque to 82 ft-lbs with the ARP moly lube, I asked OIL or ARP MOLY lube he confirmed Moly lube. I asked again like a retard to be extra extra safe. He said this works for their race cars on the torque specs. Vince confirm this publicly for me. Thanks.

boomslang

So, what are other options for head studs if ARP studs aren't up to the task?

boomslang

Just a suggestion for GE:

Since there is a decent amount of misinformation about turbo hondas out there, you should have a large FAQ section on your site. You could start off with just a few sections, covering things like head gaskets, head studs, oil pumps, proper motor break-in, piston to wall clearances, ring gaps, etc.

I'd bet many of your current and future customers would find the information very helpful, and it would keep you from having to repeat yourself over and over and over.

BoOsTeD_eK

Does this apply to OEM head bolts? I just finished an Ls/vtec with a resurfaced head, new OEM head gasket and the ls block that was already in the car. Do I have to retorque after a heat cycle when using OEM bolts? If so any tips recommendations, or how to's? Please I cant afford a messed up engine right now.

Boostfed

I don't think this would apply to stock head bolts but GE recommends ARP headstuds in their warranty and instructions. I was told something about the metal contenet and that's why the heat cycles were needed. Now if this is wrong someone please correct me.