Hi

What do you guys think of the block guards, are they worth the money? I am putting this in an B18B block.

I have also heard of overheating, can someone that's using an block guard prove it wrong?

Thanks

 

Used one for 2 years. No heating problems. No hiccups.

 

my sohc liked to overheat with the block guard. I dont think its so much of a problem with the b-series motors. But the d-series have over heating problems when you sleeve or block gaurd them (from my experience).

Also i dont think its a great idea just to swap in the block gaurd and call it a day. The block gaurd can put stress (if its not a perfect fit) on one side of the cyl. This pressure can be worse then not having the block guard there in the first place.

The best way to have them installed is to weld the block guard into place and then hone the cyl walls and use .25 over pistons. This assures a good fit and no piston problems.

There was an artical in Sport Compact Car about this a few months ago which said what i said above but with much better detail.

liam

 

Some stuff taken from the Endyn board:
In order to answer your question you need to understand what is happening in the combustin chamber. You will reach max cylinder pressure at TDC, where the block guard is to give added support to the top of the cylinder. But there are some things to think about.
Lets take a look at the H22 that came with a closed deck block. Now ask yourself, why did honda revert back to the open deck? The reason they did that is because with the closed deck they had to run really low timing with extra fuel just to avoid detonation.
Also, even tho people will say "I never had overheating" which they probably wont see because if you were to look at a graph in real time of the temp sensor, it takes some time to react so by the time you let off the throttle the temps in the cylinder will have already returned to normal. So the temp gauge never really had time to react fast enough for you to see. Now, this heat at TDC will invite detonation while doing a WOT run.

Things to consider, when Mopar rentered NASCAR they used an open deck with a high compression ratio. Also, the new engines Nissan is coming out with like the new series 2.5L in the base Altima, and Sentra Se-R/VSpec, is open deck now. Why is it that now everyone is using open deck now?

Well, now you must be thinking "Well, these cars dont run boost." True, but the better option is to get your block resleaved(golden eagle). But to answer your question, I am totally against anything that restricts cooling at the top of the cylinder.

art

 

i totally agree 100%! I wont use another block gaurd in my engine. If i want stronger cyl walls just get the block sleeved.

liam

 

...standard off the shelf blockguards... don't do it... even if you "get away with it"... It seems to limit your tuning "window", or so I'm "told"...

 

Arturbo: you must hang out at the ENDYN boards.

 

Yup, I see you do to. I copied almost word for word.

 

Do a search over at superhonda.org, there was a huge debate over this a month or so ago!!

 

I've got the block sleeved and put the block guard in nonetheless. However it sits about .75 inch down and not flush with the deck. I put in a manual fan switch to keep things flowing around the turbo and can't see any rising temp. However with the above statement I'll have to rethink things.

 

Did you say you have your block sleeved and you have a block guard?

 

 

Here's mine... no problems after 3 weeks of driving... No overheating or anything...
We tapped it in, and overbored to .10 over, using endyne pistons... Everything is straight as an arrow, said the machinist.

 

where did you guys buy your bg..and how much

 

pinning the block is a good alternative.

 

block guards are good investments in the long run....you'll thank yourself!!!!

 

I got mine through a local shop... Any place that carries STR can get them... I got mine for $60

Look to spend $75-$100.

I've HEARD that the NUFORMZ guard is better than STR... dunno why.


[Modified by SiR Kid, 2:07 PM 12/2/2001]

 

...your .75" below the deck will probably take care of the "cylinder top cooling issue"... just make sure that the cylinders are not "in a bind" and the bores are true after installing it... It will tune out much better the way you have it and be less detination prone... I believe Golden Eagles sleaves have about the same clearance from the deck...

 

i had a Nuforms block guard and recently when I pulled my engine apart the block guard was all scarred up from gettting banged around. Also the pistons were so scarred that I just threw them out. On top of that my cylinder walls were scarred beyond all belief. I boosted the hell out of it but it goes to show that the block guard is not a fix, it is only a band-aid.

 

how much were you boosting??

 

6psi on the street and 20psi at the track and keep in mind I only had 7K on the motor. Think what might of happened if I kept it in for more miles and it was a daily driver. Luckily I pulled the head and saw the problems and the block is currnetly getting sleeved at GE.

 

What would have happened? Seems like it happened anyway if you are sleeving you rblock and junked the pistons.. Could something else have happend? Also how much is it to get the block sleeved??? I am planning on 12psi daily and 18psi track.. I am thinking I will get the same results as you..

 

After seeing how ineffective the block guard is at high boost levels Id get it sleeved. It only cost me 797 shipped all the way to PA. Plus you can bore it as large as 87mm. For a price that low I cant seem why everyone that runs a turbo dont have this done. They also will warrantee the block so that tells me there is quality there.

 

i bet thats why everyone doesnt have it done. I was really hoping you were gonna say $400-$500.. wow..

 

i see that you are located in lancaster pa. who will you take your block to, to get your sleeves installed?? and do you have a number of where you got your sleeves from? thanx