I am going to put je 9:1 pistons with eagle rods in my 2000 gsr. My car is mainly driven on weekends I am just looking to boost 15 psi and maybe 18 on race gas I just want to know when I install pistons and rods should I throw a block guard in there or should I just leave it be. I have heard alot of stories about BG and I just want to know if they are true?

 

i would...most the stories and rumors you hear about them are just that, rumors...ive never heard of anyone personally messing up their car installing a block guard....no overheating issues either on my friends gsr hatch that was daily driven for over a year

 

ive heard both good and bad. there are a lot of people on this board that use them successfully as well as those who dont. if you do decide to blockg., make sure they weld it in and then bore/hone. many people end up with egg shaped cylinders from not installing them correctly.

 

I don't usually believe what people tell me but I was reading this on the sport compact car website and this is what they said "The block guard is highly regarded by some people and sworn at by others. I tend to be in the swearing category. For one, there are a lot of misconceptions of how to install a block guard, due to some misleading articles in the enthusiast press. One article showed a block guard being installed in a completely assembled, still-in-the-car engine merely by tapping it in place with a hammer. This sort of installation greatly distorts the upper part of the cylinder bore by up to several thousands of an inch, causing poor ring seal at best and seizing at worst. One very well known Quick Class competitor had his block and cylinders crack right at the point where the block guard was installed, probably because of the cylinder distortion and the huge stress riser the block guard created. There were also signs of seizure on both the piston and the cylinder wall in the area of the block guard.

If a block guard is to be used, the best way to install it would be the way JG and other engine builders do it. They hand fit the block guard to the block for a close fit before any other machining operations are done to the block. The block guard is then TIG welded in place. Skip welding is used to minimize distortion to the rest of the block. After welding, the builder machines the deck of the block flat, then the final bore machining is done. In my opinion, this is the correct way for a block guard to be used. At the very minimum, the block's bores need to be machined after the block guard is installed. Again, in my opinion, a block guard should never be installed in an assembled engine that is sitting in a car with its head off; instead, it should only be installed when building a new engine and the bore honing can be done after the block
they said the correct way to install them is to weld them in which if I were to go through that much trouble I would just resleeve the block.Here the link where I got this info http://www.sportcompactcarweb....art7/

 

if you're gonna spend the money for pistons n rods, might as well get a block guard but make sure it's installed right, or installed by a professional.

 

Here's one of my customer's LS motor in civic coupe. He has around 5k miles on it and have no problem whatsoever.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....3D%3D

 

i went the blockg. route. but truthfully, if i could do it all over again, i would just sleeve it. may cost several hundreds more, but it makes you feel that much more trustworthy that you could boost the 15 psi that you want without any worries at all if you have it tuned correctly.

 

I have a BG in my motor setup and boost 15 psi daily isn't even a sweat. although people tend to install BG's at the top of the block, it's my .02 for you or anyone else to install it a tad bit lower in order to utilize all the cooling hole effeciently. i had my BG welded 1/2" lower to avoid cooling problems. and if you get it welded in, make sure they only weld it to the block, not the sleeves.

 

I had a motor sent to me for Benson sleeves. The block guard was still in place. The sleeves were split. I wish I would have taken a picture of it. I think they are useless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reaction360 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're gonna spend the money for pistons n rods, might as well get a block guard but make sure it's installed right, or installed by a professional.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If your going to spend the money for pistons/rods, you might as well do it right the first time and sleeve the block. Last time I checked GSR are motors weren't cheap.

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I don't have any experiances with blockguards and I never will. I am sure many people have used them with no problems, but I have heard too many bad things about them even when they have been installed properly. If your on a tight budget and don't want to sleeve the block then think about posting the block.

 

I have a golden eagle block gaurd in my car and it runs cold as ice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If your going to spend the money for pistons/rods, you might as well do it right the first time and sleeve the block. Last time I checked GSR are motors weren't cheap.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree, after going the blockguard route,, even though i havent run into any problems YET, i would rather spend an extra 600 to get sleeves.
(

if your spending $100 on bg, and just say an ESTIMATED $100-200 for machining,

thats $300, you can get benson sleeving for around 900 including labor, which is only like 600 more. and after thinking about how much you have already spend paying for everything in your motor and the turbo parts themselves, 600 more is not much at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alternativeGSR1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't usually believe what people tell me but I was reading this on the sport compact car website and this is what they said "The block guard is highly regarded by some people and sworn at by others. I tend to be in the swearing category. For one, there are a lot of misconceptions of how to install a block guard, due to some misleading articles in the enthusiast press. One article showed a block guard being installed in a completely assembled, still-in-the-car engine merely by tapping it in place with a hammer. This sort of installation greatly distorts the upper part of the cylinder bore by up to several thousands of an inch, causing poor ring seal at best and seizing at worst. One very well known Quick Class competitor had his block and cylinders crack right at the point where the block guard was installed, probably because of the cylinder distortion and the huge stress riser the block guard created. There were also signs of seizure on both the piston and the cylinder wall in the area of the block guard.

If a block guard is to be used, the best way to install it would be the way JG and other engine builders do it. They hand fit the block guard to the block for a close fit before any other machining operations are done to the block. The block guard is then TIG welded in place. Skip welding is used to minimize distortion to the rest of the block. After welding, the builder machines the deck of the block flat, then the final bore machining is done. In my opinion, this is the correct way for a block guard to be used. At the very minimum, the block's bores need to be machined after the block guard is installed. Again, in my opinion, a block guard should never be installed in an assembled engine that is sitting in a car with its head off; instead, it should only be installed when building a new engine and the bore honing can be done after the block
they said the correct way to install them is to weld them in which if I were to go through that much trouble I would just resleeve the block.Here the link where I got this info http://www.sportcompactcarweb....art7/ </TD></TR></TABLE>

You have a misconception too. By carefully tapping a light ALUMINUM blockguard into place there is NO way that you are going to distort a stronger sleeve that is partially made out of STEEL.

 

I've been running a block guard for 3 years. Tapped it in and let it settle naturally. Performed a compression test last week and blew 170 across the board.

 

Thank your tuner for a great job, not the blockgard.