Kelly.

ok, here is a quick run down:
stock sleeved d16z6
std bore srp
eagle rod
ACL std bearings.

this motor has seen 3 different turbo kits.
ive made power from ~225 whp to my current 441 whp
all dyno tuned by servion.

i was getting alot of blowby (after replaceing a HG) so i decided that i was time to freshen the motor up

the motor has ~9000 miles on it.
tons (and i mean tons) of street passes.
3 yrs worth of test and tunes / local events

i think i got my money out of these parts.

im interested to see how people think my internals look.

main bearings:





sleeves:
all the sleeves looks similar, and i can catch my nail on the scratches. but the machinist said that .5mm over will clear it up.



rod bearings:





pistons:
im not sure how long i have had the chuck missing on cly1 (i think it has been since ~mid 2004 i just didnt notice it at the time. )
the pistons that were messed up were #s 1, 3 and 4 .
all the chips were on the exhaust side of the piston.




it was so bad it was smoking visibly out of the catchcan , and i could feel a steady stream coming out of the dipstick hole.
after looking at the internals, i am wondering how/why i was getting some much blowby.
i didnt crack any ringlands, and i didnt think the scratches were bad enough to cause that much blowby.

i have already sent the block to the machine shop and plan on running some 75.5mm wiseco's as well as reusing the eagle rods.

just would like to see what people think.
i think the bearings look good, (i was revving to 8k, for a sohc that high)
the pistons, they are srp and lasted alot longer then i thought they would. and "way longer" then servion thought they would
rods seem fine, and i spoke to arp, the guy suggested i just reuse the rod bolts.
the sleeves should be cleaned up by goin .5 mm overbore.

thanks in advance

Finland

you are right the bearings don't look 'too' bad, although I'd definitely replace them. I think your blowby is caused by the scratches on the cylinder bores, the rings aren't going to seal very well on that. I think you have some oil contamination issues that caused the scratches.

Kelly.

i meant to post it before,
i will be using NEW acl bearings.
basically a new bottom end, execpt the rods.

i was more worried about revving a sohc motor to 8k (which is high for a d16). i wasnt doin it for all 3 yrs, but have been for the last 6months ish.

also waht would cause those scratches?
it first i wanted to blame it on the high side loading due to the d series rod-to-stroke ratio.
is that possible?

or is it more likely that the pieces of the pistons were caught in between the piston and the cylinder wall?

i dunno,
i just thought i post it up and see what people thought.

most time you dont get to see a motors internals until they blow.
hoping to shed light on anything i can do better this next build.

Unsivil_audio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kelly. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also waht would cause those scratches?
it first i wanted to blame it on the high side loading due to the d series rod-to-stroke ratio.
is that possible?

or is it more likely that the pieces of the pistons were caught in between the piston and the cylinder wall?</TD></TR></TABLE>

All possibilities. But really, notice that they're in the same spot on the piston as they are on the cylinder wall. 2 possible reasons for this, either overexpansion from heat (long pulls), or running lean, also creating alot of heat. My guess is the first, SRP's need more clearance because they expand more, which is why your exhaust valve reliefs broke (probably weakest part of the piston). Also your bearings and the rest of the motor look great. Servion obviously rocks at what he does.

IRONlung201

cool thread
you dont get too see too many motor apart shots with 3k of hard miles on boost without it being shot...

id bet that unsivil is right about the SRPs, with alot of hard boost miles on them the expansion from heat was probably just too much at one time or another.

Id say its looking good for the rest of the motor tho. Is that a crack in the last pic in the skirt/pin area? prob just a scratch.

I find it odd that arp told you to reuse the bolts, they are measured in stretch and theyve already been stretched, sounds odd to me.

If you go with the weiscos and new bearings like you said, and replace the rod bolts/head studs your new build should work just as good if not better then the last.

cuz its pointless to cheap out and ruin ur new parts because of old used bolts, IMO.
Good luck

IRONlung201

O and did you happen to get any compression/leak down numbers before you pulled it apart. Id just be interested to see what they were.

99B16Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsivil_audio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My guess is the first, SRP's need more clearance because they expand more, which is why your exhaust valve reliefs broke (probably weakest part of the piston).</TD></TR></TABLE>

SRP's expand less than most forged pistons due to the high silicone content

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

SRP's expand less than most forged pistons due to the high silicone content</TD></TR></TABLE>



i dont think the motor looks bad at all for 3 years. i had some similar scratches on my cyl walls after only a few thousand miles (im still running the motor and for the most part the compression is still fine in those cyls.

i had it narrowed down to my tune being slightly off during break in the first few times idrove the car.

now that i think about it. it might have to do with piston expansion. it seems the scratches are on the side to side sections of the sleeves and not front to back. perhaps the pistons are getting some sideways movement along the wrist pin, providing the room is there in the first place

Kelly.

Unsivil_audio-- the last race on the current motor was against a new c6 vette.
i had a leaking WG and didnt realize it.
in the video i couted 20+ secs in boost (from 60- 150mph)
after that the HG was blown and the blowby was massive.

i didnt think about the expansion and long boost pulls

IRONlung201-
i did a leakdown a few weeks before the final race. it was ~170psi accross the board. i really wanted to do a leakdown but the shop has been super busy, and i needed to get the motor done, so we never got around to it.
fwiw, the car still pulled~17hg vacuum, and had good compersion until the day the mootr was pulled.
i told both the arp guy and the eagle guy that i wanted to buy new bolts, but they both suggested i just reuse them (plus eagle doesnt have any rod bolts in stock anyway, and eagle doesnt seel them, they only make them for eagle)


edit:
im pretty sure that is only a scratch in the pistons, not a crack.

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

SRP's expand less than most forged pistons due to the high silicone content</TD></TR></TABLE>



Those scratches on the side are pretty normal for aluminum pistons

hybrid_KJ

Bearings look real good for three years on boost. I've seen alot of pistons burn out how yours have. It is a result of the piston manufacturers trying to make a shelf piston that can accomodate oversized valves and they just take too much meat out of them. Intake reliefs on 81mm cp pistons are about the worst I've seen. Wiseco or Arias pistons seem to work out alot better in my experience.

Kelly.

thanks for the input guys,

anyone else have any comments / suggestions?

anyone wanna suggest a ring gap on my new pistons?

Unsivil_audio

Just go with manufacturer spec again.

Curious, what kind of compression were you running before? I think you should bump it up, 9.5:1 or so.

Kelly.

i was 9.0-1
i have had the head miled a few times and the block has been decked too. not that it makes that bigga deal.

i am already having to run 100 octane all the time, which isnt a huge deal becasue it is available at the pump here in vegas. but to have to step it up to 103 or 107 octane would really break my wallet (i drive the car alot)

i am gonna try to wore up map switching via neptune, maybe have a street map, and a strip map.

also, on the ring gap, i thought that the gap depended on your motor setup/power goals.

Mykizism

those bearings look really good for the amount of miles.. and abuse.. really good.. proof that ACLs are good stuff

Buzzbomb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kelly. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that piston cracked?

Kelly.

no, its just a scratch , either from removal or when i was staking stuff on my workbench.

Buzzbomb

I didn't think so, but sometimes pictures make things look different than they really are.

ExVtec

Good post...

RZFD

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kelly. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, its just a scratch , either from removal or when i was staking stuff on my workbench.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahah I thought it was a crack too.

ringgold

I plan on doing a rebuild like you are doing. Your engine lasted 3 years which is not bad under alot of boosting. Mine has survived so far, and it hasnt been a year yet but I have put about 6k miles on it so far. I have beat on it alot on the streets. Thank God I dont drive it daily. Anyways I had planned on rebuilding my engine again at around 10k miles or so, and planned on reusing my Eagle rods. Just like you I was going to put in some new rod bolts as well. Its odd that it was recommended to you to use the old rod bolts. I was even going to reuse my ARP headstuds as well.

Syke Fu

Nice. No piston slap i guess.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Do your self a favor and run a better piston next time

HNLV

when is it gonna start running

Kelly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do your self a favor and run a better piston next time </TD></TR></TABLE>

i put this motor together 3 yrs ago.

back then i wanted 250 whp, 275 whp MAX ..... lol

i think they held up pretty good, especially be being considered a "shitty version of the JE pistons"

if i had to do it all over again, i probably would have went with real JE (which were hot at the time) . not that i wouldnt have been in the same spot im in today, but atleast i would have wasted another $75