which is the best spark plug and gap?
#2
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Re: which is the best spark plug and gap? (mike93boost)
no way for us to tell you. Only you can decide while tuning.
Check for heat range on the plug after pulls to see if you need a hotter/colder plug. Also start at like 25 and work your way down as you need it. On 110oct. 26psi of boost my motor wanted only 20 as the gap.
check this page out:
http://maxracesoftware.com/spark_plugs.htm
goodluck
Check for heat range on the plug after pulls to see if you need a hotter/colder plug. Also start at like 25 and work your way down as you need it. On 110oct. 26psi of boost my motor wanted only 20 as the gap.
check this page out:
http://maxracesoftware.com/spark_plugs.htm
goodluck
#3
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20 gap is pretty damn small..
but which plugs should i start out with. i will have to get this thing ready for a tuner so when i have it tuned we dont have to do all this ****.
but which plugs should i start out with. i will have to get this thing ready for a tuner so when i have it tuned we dont have to do all this ****.
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Re: (mike93boost)
Bring to the tuning session a pair of 8's and 7's. Start with the 8's and the tuner will see if the heat range needs to be changed after that. depending on boost and power the tuner will decide where to start the plug gapping. 20 is pretty small but that's how some engines like it .
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Re: (adseguy)
yeah foreal.
Mine was a 84mm LSvtec 10:1compression @ 26psi of boost. 110oct and stock ignition. Turbo was a 62-1 turbonetics and heat 8 ngk's were good. 20 is where mine liked it
But yeah, bring a set of 7's and 8's and let the tunner gap them as he needs to.
Mine was a 84mm LSvtec 10:1compression @ 26psi of boost. 110oct and stock ignition. Turbo was a 62-1 turbonetics and heat 8 ngk's were good. 20 is where mine liked it
But yeah, bring a set of 7's and 8's and let the tunner gap them as he needs to.
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Re: (mike93boost)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93boost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so ngk zfr7f and zfr8f?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no such thing.
BRK7E-11 aka NGK stock# 1283
R5672A-8 aka NGK stock# 7173
And, frankly, there's no telling what temperature plugs you actually need. 7/8 with racegas is probably going to be the ticket, BUT. It's crazy what some engines want when the "exact same" setup the week before wanted something different.
There is no such thing.
BRK7E-11 aka NGK stock# 1283
R5672A-8 aka NGK stock# 7173
And, frankly, there's no telling what temperature plugs you actually need. 7/8 with racegas is probably going to be the ticket, BUT. It's crazy what some engines want when the "exact same" setup the week before wanted something different.
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Re: (J. Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is no such thing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
uh yea there is. stock d16z6 plugs are zrf5f-11. and they make 6, 7, and 8
</TD></TR></TABLE>
uh yea there is. stock d16z6 plugs are zrf5f-11. and they make 6, 7, and 8
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Re: (mike93boost)
The ZFR7F-11 must be a new number - it is showing up on http://www.ngk.com, but is not listed in my 2004 NGK catalog. ZFR8F-11 is not in my catalog, nor does it show up on http://www.ngk.com - can you advise?
edit: nice to know you can get CDI-compatible inductive resistor plug in something colder than a 6, in something other than ****** iridium... time to pester NGK for heat ranges up to 10 or so...
edit: nice to know you can get CDI-compatible inductive resistor plug in something colder than a 6, in something other than ****** iridium... time to pester NGK for heat ranges up to 10 or so...
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Re: (J. Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ZFR7F-11 must be a new number - it is showing up on http://www.ngk.com, but is not listed in my 2004 NGK catalog. ZFR8F-11 is not in my catalog, nor does it show up on http://www.ngk.com - can you advise?
edit: nice to know you can get CDI-compatible inductive resistor plug in something colder than a 6, in something other than ****** iridium... time to pester NGK for heat ranges up to 10 or so...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought they made them in 8...maybe not..
but what plugs should i get ZFR7F-11 or BRK7E-11?
edit: nice to know you can get CDI-compatible inductive resistor plug in something colder than a 6, in something other than ****** iridium... time to pester NGK for heat ranges up to 10 or so...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i thought they made them in 8...maybe not..
but what plugs should i get ZFR7F-11 or BRK7E-11?
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Re: (mike93boost)
If not CDI, irrelevant.
Well, hrm. BRK7E should have a hair more ceramic around the center electrode if my understanding of the "E" is correct. ZFR5F-11 vs ZFR5J-11 shows one with much more ceramic than the other... which is going to have a very very minimal effect on plug misfiring/glazing in an abuse environment where the plug isn't going to last long anyway.
How is that for splitting hairs?
Well, hrm. BRK7E should have a hair more ceramic around the center electrode if my understanding of the "E" is correct. ZFR5F-11 vs ZFR5J-11 shows one with much more ceramic than the other... which is going to have a very very minimal effect on plug misfiring/glazing in an abuse environment where the plug isn't going to last long anyway.
How is that for splitting hairs?
#18
Re: (J. Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BRK7E-11 aka NGK stock# 1283
R5672A-8 aka NGK stock# 7173
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm assuming the second one is the heat range 8 plug for B-series engines? So why don't they just make a BKR8E? Unless I guess the R5672A-8 is made for some other car primarily.
BRK7E-11 aka NGK stock# 1283
R5672A-8 aka NGK stock# 7173
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm assuming the second one is the heat range 8 plug for B-series engines? So why don't they just make a BKR8E? Unless I guess the R5672A-8 is made for some other car primarily.
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expletive it, ill just get some ZFR7F-11
and i dont know for sure if ill be running race gas or not.. if its not good for the engine and components then i wont. i want this setup to last forever with minimal problems. this is my 3rd setup.
and i dont know for sure if ill be running race gas or not.. if its not good for the engine and components then i wont. i want this setup to last forever with minimal problems. this is my 3rd setup.
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Re: (mike93boost)
Difference between what Mike shows and what J. Davis shows is the tip. The ZFR7F is an extended tip.
http://www.sparkplugs.com/resu...&y=20
http://www.sparkplugs.com/resu...0&y=0
I would think the extended tip is NOT what you want but I could be wrong. At least for those power levels.
http://www.sparkplugs.com/resu...&y=20
http://www.sparkplugs.com/resu...0&y=0
I would think the extended tip is NOT what you want but I could be wrong. At least for those power levels.
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Re: (mike93boost)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93boost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want this setup to last forever with minimal problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>
In a 400 whp D-series? Good luck with that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Difference between what Mike shows and what J. Davis shows is the tip. The ZFR7F is an extended tip.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thing is, the tip isn't any more extended than the J's. The ceramic just comes up higher, and leaves less center elecrode exposed.
In a 400 whp D-series? Good luck with that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Difference between what Mike shows and what J. Davis shows is the tip. The ZFR7F is an extended tip.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thing is, the tip isn't any more extended than the J's. The ceramic just comes up higher, and leaves less center elecrode exposed.
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Re: (J. Davis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In a 400 whp D-series? Good luck with that.
Thing is, the tip isn't any more extended than the J's. The ceramic just comes up higher, and leaves less center elecrode exposed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
people with 400whp b series do it all the time. granted a dseries needs more parts and money to make it equal a b..
btw, just went and bought some BKR7E's from oreily's
Thing is, the tip isn't any more extended than the J's. The ceramic just comes up higher, and leaves less center elecrode exposed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
people with 400whp b series do it all the time. granted a dseries needs more parts and money to make it equal a b..
btw, just went and bought some BKR7E's from oreily's
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Re: (mike93boost)
D-series require a lot more chamber pressure to create "the same" force pressing piston downward as B-series does. A 75mm piston has less surface area to press against than an 81-84mm piston, simple math. NOW we all know why Bisi went F-series w/ 87mm bore... it's just like the domestic guys have been saying for 50 years, although we know they are too stupid to be listened to, "big bore makes big power."
Uh, </rant>, sorry about that. I like the D-series lots, but the higher you push them the less reliable they are due to bore size.
Uh, </rant>, sorry about that. I like the D-series lots, but the higher you push them the less reliable they are due to bore size.