JDM B20 EH2

I was goin down the freeway today. When I got off i had a real bad miss. Stopped by advanced and got a new set f plugs they were fouled. After new plugs still missing. I removed all the plug wires while it was running. #2 wire dont make a difference plugged or unplugged.

I am running a 93 delsol d16z6, t25, edelbrock mani, wally 190lph, dsm 510cc with honda resistor box, p28 tuned with crome.

Dont have a compression tester going to borrow one tomorrow. Oil dont smell like fuel and dont smoke when running, no knock. Only sign when drivin is not full power. Any idea what it could be? I will get some pics of the plugs i took out and post them shortly.

skuded

well find out if you are getting spark out of the coil just unplug the wire from the coil on # 2 and see if your getting spark, check the distributor cap, if your getting spark, then swap fuel injectors from cylinder 3 and cylinder 2 and pull the plug wires again and see if the miss goes away on cylinder 2 and goes to 3

JDM B20 EH2

I do have spark havent moved the injectors around yet. Pinkin up a set of 450cc tomorrow anyways figured i would just swap them out and see what happens.

Natural Aspirations

Good advise skuded

Pick up a compression tester, they are about $20

DO NOT DRIVE the car until you do a compression check. My "guess" is you burnt a valve but best to rule out everything you can before you tear it apart. Could simply be a bad plug wire or injector wire.

K7-1Ktrevor

burnt valve unless you were railing on it then it could be a cracked ring land.

blackeg

which is why a leakdown test is also in order. what does the spark plug look like?

JDM B20 EH2

The #2 plug was black and looked like it was covered in burnt oil. I have no choice but to drive the car the other car is down at the moment.

#1,#3, & #4 all looked like this.


Here is #2

JDM B20 EH2

I have the flu or something and wasnt able to do anything to the car today. I didnt even go to work.

skuded

that looks like oil burnt on the plug, you may have had a ring let go, try and pour at small amount of trans fluid down into the spark plug hole and let it sit for a while then put fresh plugs in and see if it runs better, it probly wont, but if it does for a little while then you know your rings on that cylinder are done

JDM B20 EH2

There is only one time I can even think that may have caused the prob. I dropped to 4th and passed someone. Boost never went over 10psi and i prob wasn't in it more than half to 3/4 throttle. Prob closer to half. When I shifted to 5th heard a small sound. Sounded like a coupler or something popped loose on the intercooler pipe. Seemed to be runnin fine. Revved fine and still had power so didn't think anymore of it. Also I had alot of extra weight in the trunk. I had a complete Eclipse 420a motor back there.

I found a local kid with a BNIB set of eagle rods w/ bearings, srp pistons w/ rings, top line gasket set. I'm goin to pick this up this weekend and rip the motor apart for a rebuild. I have a few questions.

1. If I have no damage on my mains can i just get a std set and replace them all without any work to the crank?

2. If I have a burnt valve is it as simple as droppin the one valve out and the new one in? I do have a valve spring compressor and will have the head off anyways.

3. Copper gasket spay good to use on Honda head gaskets? I know DSM guys swear by it.

E85B18

1) I bet you're fine with good mains. You could have someone look at the crank for piece of mind but odds are you're good.
2) Get someone to help you if you're unsure how to replace valves
3) I use copper spray every time

90sedan

Was it a stock motor? Or has the bottom end been recently rebuilt? Before tearing it apart, i would perform a leakdown test, that way you know exactly what the problem is. If you decide to tear it down for a rebuild, you'll be fine using the eagle/srp combo. Although i would only buy it if it's a good deal.

1) Definitely send the motor out to get bored/honed for the new pistons and check the clearances on every bearing, don't just slap the new ones in. Since you will be using the same crank/block using the original main bearings is fine, just inspect for any wear/clearance issues. You won't need any work to the crank, although it's recommended to get a micropolish done to ensure a perfect surface for the bearings.

2) Once you remove the head it should be obvious if any of the valves are burnt, replacing valves is pretty easy, if you have the tools, just grab a service manual. You will need the valve seat cleaned and recut for the new valve.

3) If the head and block mating surfaces are true and the head is properly installed, then there is absolutely no need to use copper spray.

JDM B20 EH2

I can and have replaced many valves, but i didnt know if it burnt the valve if it would also hurt the sealing surface of the head.

Stock motor. never been redone, 250,000miles

I can mic out the crank to check for roundess and make sure its in specs

Im gettin the whole setup: BNIB Eagle rods w/ bearings, BNIB SRP turbo pistons w/rings, and a complete Top Line engine gasket set all for $500

I can and have honed quite a few cylinders in the past with no probs.

K7-1Ktrevor

every time Iv had a motor with a burnt valve I had a machine shop replace the valve with a used one from another head and do a quick valve job on it. it doesn't cost much either. I would never replace a burnt valve with a good one without having a machine shop look at it at least.

JDM B20 EH2

K. If it is that ill have them check it out. Either way the head will be coming off and the new pistons and rods are goin in. If i do have a bad valve ill take care of it while the head is off.

E85B18

Sounds like you know what you're doing. You'll be fine

JDM B20 EH2

Yeah my grandfather Used to build NHRA drag motors when I was about 8 he started teaching me how to build motors. I just haven't ever pulled a valve in a Honda. Figured it was the same as any other motor was just wanting to clarify.