<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yoboslayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you even checked piston to wall clearance before you put the bottom end together? Also when did the oil pressure light start coming on? From the beginning or after 50 miles when the knock started happening? What do you mean by "the oil light comes on only when it starts getting warmed up. when it's idling, the light stays on constant. when it's revved, the light blinks." So you mean the light is always on? The way you explained it doesnt make sense. Maybe you dont even have enough oil in the motor. How did you plug the squirters? You said you used the OEM bolts, I dont understand how you plugged them using the OEM bolts. In my opinion, it sounds like youve spun a bearing.
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when the motor gets warmed up, i.e. operating temperature, the oil light comes on. AFTER IT'S WARMED UP when it's idling, the light stays on, but when the motor is being revved, i.e. it is NOT idling, the light blinks but does not stay on constantly. i don't know how much more simply put that can be phrased.

 

You still havent answered my other questions.

 

I think the light comes on at around 7 PSI, So when its on you have less than that, if its flicking then you will have around that. Which i way to low to be driving or even raising the revs over idle.

 

metal in your oil is never a common or a good thing...what spec rings are you using on the pistons? if you had to force them in Ill bet they arent the right mil spec...also metal expands under heat so your rings swelling could be whats accumilating in your oil pan.

did you mess with the head at all? as for the knock is it consistant, is it coming from every cycle of each cylinder? get a auto stethoscope and probe the block to pin point where the noise is generated.

 

fresh hone blah blah look at it THIS way..

that metal your getting in your fingers, is getting sprayed at 80psi against your main bearings, rod bearings, all throughout your head, and your crank and cams are probably working as a grinder!

u have metal in your oil its bad. take it apart before you tear it up real bad. and have it hot tanked to remove all the extra metal.

your complaining about noise in the engine, but u are denying the fact that you might ahve spun a bearing... i dont see how you can come to conclusions about main alingment, crank straghtness, ect ect when you havent measured it, and assume its alright just becasue "i checked it"..

its not alright to have metal in your pan, thats all you need to know. u dont have to listen to me, or everyone else that says pull it out, but be sure when you start selling everything off becasue "im out of the game it costs too much" to hit me up becasue ill love to buy a 50 dollar GSR block that has a bad crank, spun bearings, and a bad oil pump

 

[QUOTE=lke2drvgsr]bearing clearances were to spec.. all within .015-.02 [QUOTE]

That bearing clearance are way tooo lose - they are generally about .0001-.0019 but in some cases .0021. but man .015-.02 are way to lose.

 

[QUOTE=500hpsi][QUOTE=lke2drvgsr]bearing clearances were to spec.. all within .015-.02 <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That bearing clearance are way tooo lose - they are generally about .0001-.0019 but in some cases .0021. but man .015-.02 are way to lose.
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lol well then thats what i meant, whatever the numbers were are what my clearances were.


well now there's another problem... there's a puddle of oil in all the cylinders, and we're not sure if it's from maybe my friend dunking everything in oil during assembly, or if the piston rings were all in align with each other, or if the pistons/walls were out of spec. this is probably the cause of the low oil pressure.

turns out timing was far off too, it was ridiculously advanced, so we retarded it and that helped get rid of the knocking sound.

 

sorry to say this but you need to get some help from someone that knows a thign or too. you dont have a clue on whats goin on

 

^- I agree.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lke2drvgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when the motor gets warmed up, i.e. operating temperature, the oil light comes on. AFTER IT'S WARMED UP when it's idling, the light stays on, but when the motor is being revved, i.e. it is NOT idling, the light blinks but does not stay on constantly. i don't know how much more simply put that can be phrased.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Use a little common sense here. When oil is cold, it is thicker. Thicker oil creates higher oil pressures. When the engine is warmed up, so is the oil. And the oil is thinned back out = lower oil pressures. Do you even know how a honda oil pump works? Its a gear, the faster you spin it (rpms) the more oil pressure it will create. You should've shut of the motor the first time you ever saw that oil light and investigated. Now you either got to pull the crank and have it turned down or get a new one, and hopefully your rods arent fucked. Oh well, expensive lesson to learn.

 

Wow, I'm surprised in 2 pages of posts every one has been really nice to you, the truth is that you fucked up your engine, and it's all your own fault. If you see the oil light come on you shut the engine off, if you understood anything about engines you would know why.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, I'm surprised in 2 pages of posts every one has been really nice to you, the truth is that you fucked up your engine, and it's all your own fault. If you see the oil light come on you shut the engine off, if you understood anything about engines you would know why.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL! I agree haha. he has no clue what he's doing.

My favorite quote of his:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, the oil light is coming on as well (that means low oil pressure right?) there's no oil leaks anywhere from what i can see..</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol!!! he got the low oil pressure part right but apparently doesn't know what causes it. Means your oil pump isn't working properly...not an oil leak. Now, some engines DO have low oil LEVEL indicators though but I dont recall one on the B18C engines.

though, to his own credit he does talk about oil being everywhere later on.


you need to pull that engine back out and tear it back down and find out what you fudged up when you built it in the first place. metal shavings, knocking noise, bad oil pressure, oil everywhere, and oil in the cylinders are not something you can simply fix by tightening a hose you forgot or retarding the ignition.

now follow everyone's ******* advice and pull that engine out and tear it back down.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">followed the helms like the torah. (im jewish ) </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn jews

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


damn jews
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no need for racial slurs... keep it civil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no need for racial slurs... keep it civil

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thats not a racial slur, it's an ethnic slur and I wasn't being mean spirited when I stated it either. just poking fun.

 

Yea, your motor is fucked...

The OEM Oil light comes on at 4-5psi...so if the motor was idling at low oil pressure...you should have killed it right then.

The Oil Pressure has NOTHING to do with oil level. That knocking is a bearing sound and the more you sit there and rev it...the more fucked up everything is.

This is a prime example of why DIY'ers sometimes shouldn't.

 

ok, 100 people VS your dad's opinion. who you gonna believe?

 

The "metal shaving you can barely feel" are the first layer of the bearing...

Once it gets into the 2nd Layer, your crank is going to be toasty.

I have a clean GSR Crank when yu need one...lemme know.

 

You guys are saying the same thing I said on the first page. I gave up awhile ago. This kid wont accept the facts.

 

i dont know why everyone's getting so offensive, sorry if i said something that offended anyone..

anyway, i guess it was the bearings. i used ACL race bearings (heat treated) but now the question is what could have caused this? bad clearances? (we checked all of them twice and they were all perfect) bad oil pump?

here's some pics of the main bearings:






those look fucked up, they're shaved/scraped, etc. the rod bearings look fine to me and there's no scratching from what i can feel on them.:




and here's the end of the inside of the rod, which still has a 60 degree honing job on it..




sorry i was so stubborn before, i just didn't want the motor to be this bad

im gonna go with oem bearings, but now the question is what do i do about the crank.. the part where it goes on the main has a lip on the center.

 

Those mains are MESSED up...never seen any that bad...

I've seen motors with zero oil pressure and your mains look worse.

You need to get your align-bore checked and a new crank if your's has a lip on it.

PM Sent.

 

dave ill get back to you on that crank. i still gotta figure out how it got that bad... everything was oiled when i pulled it, it's not like **** was dry.

i pulled another rod bearing and i think it was a little scraped up, but not sure. it looks like it is but feels smooth to me.

 

**** i really don't know what to do. obviously i can't drive the car, i don't have the money to have a shop do the work for me, my family's getting pissed cuz my car's been taking up the whole garage forever and they need to garage their cars for winter and we're leaving to go out of town in 2 days, and im a pizza delivery boy so i need a car to drive.

any real suggestions would be extremely helpful.

 

Buy a Beater...

 

Im with Dave on the beater. Its something you need when you get serious about your car. You should be able to find a winner for $500.

Dave Im surprised you say those bearings are the worse you've ever seen. I think mine were worse. His dont really look that bad to me.

lke2drvgsr - A couple questions I asked you earlier in this thread that never got answered: Did you replace the oil pump when you built your motor? Did you check the oil pickup? Did you check the oil pan for dents and clearance between the oil pickup?

And I wouldnt run out and buy OEM bearing just because of this. Its def not the bearings fault or a quality issue. I use ACL bearings in my motor.

On your next motor build - make sure you have an oil gauge from the moment you first start it. Thats something we all get after we learn our lesson.

 

same oil pump from old motor which worked perfect. the pan had the same dents it had on the previous setup as well. nothing changed from the old setup to the new setup besides bearings, pistons, and rods. i didnt feel the need to buy new stuff since it was working fine and was all replaced ~50k miles ago.


but i think ive decided to either sell the car as is or part it out and just start with something new..

 

check the gasket between your pump and your pickup. it looks dry to me...
next time, spin the crank to make sure it moves freely before u torque the rod caps down onto it..

lay out all the main bearings in order and take a pic of them.