Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

For starters, I just finished my car not long ago and it has been a long time coming.. I started this whole engine build with the goal of trying to make 500whp on pump gas safely. I'm realizing how hard that is to do

Benson sleeved 84mm Type R
9:7:1 cr CP Pistons, Eagle Rods
Supertech valvetrain
ARP Main studs
Go Autoworks 2.5 inch piping
Go Autoworks Turbonetics TGA 6157
BRMS Mini ram manifold (AC/PS comp)

Grams 1000cc fuel injectors
Walbro 255 w/stock FPR
NGK BKR7E11

Got my car on the dyno.. my tuner built the map and we did a couple baseline pulls

She made 302whp and 219 tq on 8psi and then we ran into issues..

I feel like an idiot for being under prepared and not having my car ''ready'' or to at least keep pushing it, so now I have to get some things situated and I am going to go back.

On to the issues

We eventually increased the boost in small increments and we ended up turning it up to 16psi and it started throwing spark and breaking up. 16 psi at 5800 rpms we were at 75% injector duty cycle and he said we probably would have been up to 85/90ish.. running out of fuel

Sadly I do not remember what I gapped my NGK BKR7E11 plugs at. The car has sat for so long in the garage, but the build only has 1100 miles on it.

I searched around and found a bunch of OLD threads with people making high HP on gas and I know stuff has changed.. I just wanted to see if I'm crazy for wanting to make 500whp. I don't necessarily have to keep it @ that for my weekend driving, but it's just a goal for me. I don't think this turbo is going to do it.

At this point I am contemplating switching to E85, but I know it's going to be expensive.

I guess I am going to replace plugs, get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator [aeromotive a1000] and try to stick with the walbro 255 or should I step up to a walbro 450 for future just in case?

IF i kept it on gas and I believe we have leaded race gas available around here. I guess i could turn it up on that and see what it makes?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For that turbo, for 500whp on 93 octane, yes, expectations are too high. On race fuel, you'll come close but will need a lot of boost pressure to do it, but will be easier to do it on race fuel than on e85.

LightningTeg

I dont see anything wrong here except plug gap is unknown. Need a fresh set of plugs and gap them down to 0.020 or so. If you're still on pump you may need a colder plug.

And your tuner sent you home without checking this stuff?

LightningTeg

A 61mm compressor rated for 600hp, you really think that?

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Higher boost pressure the more dangerous on pump, but race gas would it be ok to do it on the dyno without running a lot of risk?

Ironically he insisted on putting a brand new set of plugs in and gapping them at .20 but I only have 1k miles on them and i didn't want to put plugs in it because they were practically new. It's funny how later in the day my decision to not replace the plugs came back and bit me in the ***.

I have been asking TheShodan all kinds of questions and some of the local guys run the non resistor on their setup.. they are only a little bit more $. I am thinking about trying those.

LightningTeg

4644 (BKR7E [not bkr7e11]) is the part number I run in mine. On pump 93 I ran 8 heat range.

Schister66

BKR7e, NOT the BKR7e11's. The -11s have a .044 gap whereas the 7E's have a .030 gap IIRC. Dont bother with the -11's because you'll end up gapping them all down anyway

If you switch to E85, grab a Walbro 450 and some bigger injectors, you'll be fine (12-1600cc)

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

People gap them to what they need to anyway. What's 10 more minutes of work?

Dark_Teg

I have blown up enough things on pump gas. Straight E85 for me and I have the same goal as you. Well my goal is to run 10's....500whp should make that goal easy. I thought about running C16 but when you compare C16 to E85 dollar wise the choice is clear.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

$/gal sure. But you have to take into account all the hardware and equipment as the initial investment. (differing fuel pump, fuel lines, sensors, purging injectors, etc)
With my C16, I can concentrate on other aspects of the car for effective circuit racing. Which I don't do enough to worry about the fuel cost. Many of us in Michigan/Illinois pick it up in bulk from all of the domestic drag racers that still buy by the 55 gal drum.


I guess I'm still in the minority... Meth/water or C16 for me. I have E85 stations all over me.

BoostAndBoobs

Make sure you get BKR7E, not the 7E-11's. I just ran into this problem with it blowing spark out on my LS. I got BKR7E's and gapped them to .030". Fixed in a heartbeat. I tried running the 7E-11's and it kept blowing spark. Part number 4644 at Advanced Auto. With your boost pressure and power level I would gap them lower in the .020".

You think 1100 miles is low for plugs? Hell, I went through about 5 sets of plugs with like 50 miles on most of them, Trying to get them right.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Anyone recently ran the non resistor? I took a pic of them at the parts store yesterday:

4554 - R5671A-8

LightningTeg

https://www.hondata.com/tech-non-resistor-spark-plugs

boosted94gsr

I ran 4554 with no interference issues, but I used NGK plug wires that have resistance built into them I believe.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I've used them for years. Like I stated, no interference issues if using quality OEM wires.

2kdrift

My tuner recommended these as well, he had me gap them to .025, on my 7e's I was using .028-.03 I retune this weekend

@op I wouldnt bother replacing the fuel pump unless you go E85

sounds like your plugs were not gapped correctly. You can make alot more then 300HP with that turbo on pump, I tend to agree with lighting here I dont see any reason you cant meet your goal with what you have. FPR is always nice to have. Those injectors should do 500HP no problem

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Thank you all.

One other thing.. I just pulled the trigger on the aeromotive a1000 FPR and gauge. I checked the FAQ and searched on here and google and there isn't a solid install with pics.

I have a chasebays tucked fuel line kit with an inline filter going to my skunk 2 composite fuel rail... the factory FPR is bolted onto the rail and on the end of the fuel rail I am running a -8 [i believe] an o-ring cap blocking it off.

I am kinda confused on this FPR install because it has two ports up top. It looks like one will get blocked off? Does it come with the cap to block it off? How are the hoses routed? I would probably understand it better if someone could post some pics..

I appreciate it

2kdrift

Looks like it has a feed and a return to the fuel tank, I run the standard aem rail mounted unit so I cant help much here.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/...0109-0revH.pdf


so basically you put a plug where the factory FPR goes and follow one of the 2 images below

LightningTeg

This is how my aeromotive is setup:

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

If you have room you can actually put the gauge on the FPR, right?

Do you have any other pics or close up? Where you mounted it? I am pretty sure I grinded down the studs on the firewall when I had my bay painted. I was thinking about using some self tapping hardware or something..

Is that [1] 90 and then a straight?

2kdrift, yeah i seen that but also read to never put the FPR before the rail or whatever.. then i noticed in their instructions they mentioned it too.

LightningTeg

I used self tappers to mount it to firewall. But it would be easy to pop off the cowl and put bolt with nut.

Its -6an 45 off stock hardline feed using B&R adapter feed, to -6an 90 top of filter, -6an 90 off bottom filter to -6an 90 at fuel pressure gauge adapter, fuel pressure gauge adapter to -6an ORB fuel rail fitting, other side is -6an ORB fuel rail fitting to -6an 90 to -6an 45. Stock return line is only 1/4" so I had to step it down from 5/16 out of bottom of regulator.

2kdrift

nice setup, I got the same fuel filter.

did you need to use any type of thread sealant when you used the oem fpr block off plug?

2kdrift

yeaah some people do, but its not optimal as sstated in the image

when all else fails RTFM haha

LightningTeg

To be honest, my AEM rail came tapped in some unknown thread for that FPR port. I had to drill it out and tap it myself to 1/8th NPT. BUt I did use thread tape even though they say not too for fuel applications. It would leak otherwise.

More pics for Jimmy

2kdrift

Yea mine leaked from my fuel gauge port, I was just curious I ended up using this aviation sealer stuff since teflon is not meant for fuel