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Hey guys, I miss the forums and I've done a slightly better job of taking pics of things I do with this car, so I figured I'd share what I have and what I plan on doing. I bought the sedan a couple of years ago and thought it would be fun to do an h2b setup. H23 VTEC engine, S4C trans with Mfactory lsd, using the QSD h2b kit. Car was a blast with this setup. 12.7@107 was the best time if my memory serves me. Torque everywhere. Was ready to turbocharge it so I picked up an STC Hunter, GoAutoworks bottom mount, etc. I fought with the tuning for a few weeks. Just could not get enough fuel up top. Turns out the valve train on these engines was weaker than I thought and I floated the valves and touched some pistons. Ditched the h2b setup, bought a low compression b20, Crower 404 cams and valve train, and used the same turbo with an SPA cast top mount. This setup works amazing. I could def pick up some on the bottom and the top with a vtec head, but I'm enjoying the simplicity for the time being. Car went 11.3X @124 at the end of the season last year. I got tired of all the low speed spinning so I decided to switch to awd. Same engine/turbo setup still (minus a set back a few weeks ago with some cracked sleeves due to me sending it with the junk Innovate wideband not working). The awd setup is working well. Hoping to make it to the track this Friday, though I'm sure I've lost some mph. Picked up all the parts to do an ls block, Eagle rod, Nippon piston short block. Wanting to crank this turbo up and see what I end up with. This is all I have for now. I'll be back with updates. Enjoy! *I tried to add a few vids but I can't seem to get them to embed, and my upload file sizes are too large?
This one is all over the place as far as what was used. Components altogether were probably around $2500 or so though. I ended up having a totaled crv, and that's what led to me wanting to do this
Did you modify the rear trailing arms or source them from one of the companies in the AWD game? Have you re-weighed everything since the AWD conversion.
Did you modify the rear trailing arms or source them from one of the companies in the AWD game? Have you re-weighed everything since the AWD conversion.
I used a kit that S1Built sold a little earlier on that comes with all the components to modify your existing arms. I haven't weighed it yet actually. I need to do that. My guess is slightly above or below 2100 now
Yeah, I've seen the really fast guys with AWD knock out 1.3's but I just wonder how much it really helps the average Joe. The few average Joe's I've seen post up 1.6's which to me isn't really worth it. I'm trying to convince myself to do an AWD setup in the future but am stuck between a rock and a hard place on the idea.
If I do a regular AWD setup on my car I would only be going backwards on progress unless I go all out which would be an easy 12 to 14k.
Still curious to see if these AWD setups on street cars can bang out 1.3's.
I believe the AWD/stock crv trans/diff/transfer case conversion is more of a street car deal. To gain traction on the street. Instead of having a car that only works in 3rd gear on the street. One could then roll up to the track and keep the street tires on.
Like you mentioned to do the AWD bulletproof drag race setup, 12-14k.
Yeah, I've seen the really fast guys with AWD knock out 1.3's but I just wonder how much it really helps the average Joe. The few average Joe's I've seen post up 1.6's which to me isn't really worth it. I'm trying to convince myself to do an AWD setup in the future but am stuck between a rock and a hard place on the idea.
If I do a regular AWD setup on my car I would only be going backwards on progress unless I go all out which would be an easy 12 to 14k.
Still curious to see if these AWD setups on street cars can bang out 1.3's.
the best ive heard of when it comes to an AWD honda is 1.1 60fts, so your gaining 0.3sec there plus the ability to put all the power in 2/3 compared to a fwd setup
Yeah, I've seen the really fast guys with AWD knock out 1.3's but I just wonder how much it really helps the average Joe. The few average Joe's I've seen post up 1.6's which to me isn't really worth it. I'm trying to convince myself to do an AWD setup in the future but am stuck between a rock and a hard place on the idea.
If I do a regular AWD setup on my car I would only be going backwards on progress unless I go all out which would be an easy 12 to 14k.
Still curious to see if these AWD setups on street cars can bang out 1.3's.
Originally Posted by AllMtrRex
I believe the AWD/stock crv trans/diff/transfer case conversion is more of a street car deal. To gain traction on the street. Instead of having a car that only works in 3rd gear on the street. One could then roll up to the track and keep the street tires on.
Like you mentioned to do the AWD bulletproof drag race setup, 12-14k.
Allmtrrex pretty much nailed it. The car cut pretty consistent 1.6 when fwd at the track. It cuts (what feels like at least) the same on the street now. I can’t stand having to play catch up with rwd cars from low mph rolls, and from a dig it’s pretty much pointless. Especially since it’s always 1/8 on the street around here.
the best ive heard of when it comes to an AWD honda is 1.1 60fts, so your gaining 0.3sec there plus the ability to put all the power in 2/3 compared to a fwd setup
Wow, really. Last I saw was Section 8's AWD hatch did I think a best of 1.29, do you know who did a 1.1?
Ha thanks man. I do actually have a question. I do my own tuning (one of my favorite parts of all this actually), but I've never ran boost pressure into the upper 20's like I plan to. I'm aware it's hp not psi when it comes to limitations, but something my old tuner (David Blundell) said to me a long time ago has stuck with me. I had a 9:1 piston/rod B16 with a 60-1. Basically the worst, most inefficient setup I've ever had lol. We had it at 21 psi and I remember him saying he didn't want to push the boost any further on the stock sleeves. Now I'm not sure if that's cause the turbo was running out of steam and pushing a ton of heat or what? But when I think about pushing this Hunter to it's limit, I can't help but think about this. Is there a point where it's just too risky with enough pressure on stock sleeves, even if the turbo is still moving good air? Cause of this I questioned moving to a slightly bigger turbo just to get away with less pressure. But I REALLY like the characteristics of this turbo.
Wow, really. Last I saw was Section 8's AWD hatch did I think a best of 1.29, do you know who did a 1.1?
I haven't paid too much attention to 60' on these mega powered cars. I have to imagine the Prayoonto cars are in the front right now. They jumped in last year and are making some big strides.
Ha thanks man. I do actually have a question. I do my own tuning (one of my favorite parts of all this actually), but I've never ran boost pressure into the upper 20's like I plan to. I'm aware it's hp not psi when it comes to limitations, but something my old tuner (David Blundell) said to me a long time ago has stuck with me. I had a 9:1 piston/rod B16 with a 60-1. Basically the worst, most inefficient setup I've ever had lol. We had it at 21 psi and I remember him saying he didn't want to push the boost any further on the stock sleeves. Now I'm not sure if that's cause the turbo was running out of steam and pushing a ton of heat or what? But when I think about pushing this Hunter to it's limit, I can't help but think about this. Is there a point where it's just too risky with enough pressure on stock sleeves, even if the turbo is still moving good air? Cause of this I questioned moving to a slightly bigger turbo just to get away with less pressure. But I REALLY like the characteristics of this turbo.
21 psi doesnt mean much. That's not why Dave stopped. He stopped because it was 21 psi on the 60-1 which he believed to be power limit of stock sleeves. I wouldn't turn your setup up any higher on stock b20 sleeves, or rev it out any further if it's staying together. Go ahead and get CSS's to do your LS block and have it ready for backup.
21 psi doesnt mean much. That's not why Dave stopped. He stopped because it was 21 psi on the 60-1 which he believed to be power limit of stock sleeves. I wouldn't turn your setup up any higher on stock b20 sleeves, or rev it out any further if it's staying together. Go ahead and get CSS's to do your LS block and have it ready for backup.
Oh, I should have been more clear. I planned to turn it up with this ls setup I'm putting together. As far as that b16, yea I can only assume that it was the 60-1 running out of juice. Just the way he worded it threw me a bit I guess, and has always been in the back of my mind lol. I'd love to do the css, but I already have this stuff laying around and I can't see doing the block for a set of $200 pistons at this point. This turbo peaks in the 470ish range. Stock sleeves should hold that power. Hopefully in the next month or so I'll have that done. Maybe by that time Speefactory will have released their kit to swap fwd gear sets into the sbxm trans. Fingers crossed. Cause gearing sucks on this thing right now. lol
Oh, I should have been more clear. I planned to turn it up with this ls setup I'm putting together. As far as that b16, yea I can only assume that it was the 60-1 running out of juice. Just the way he worded it threw me a bit I guess, and has always been in the back of my mind lol. I'd love to do the css, but I already have this stuff laying around and I can't see doing the block for a set of $200 pistons at this point. This turbo peaks in the 470ish range. Stock sleeves should hold that power. Hopefully in the next month or so I'll have that done. Maybe by that time Speefactory will have released their kit to swap fwd gear sets into the sbxm trans. Fingers crossed. Cause gearing sucks on this thing right now. lol
What Speedfactory kit do you speak of? I would love to be able to swap over a B-Series PPG set into a sbxm trans.
What Speedfactory kit do you speak of? I would love to be able to swap over a B-Series PPG set into a sbxm trans.
They've made a kit that has a special bearing that allows the fwd 1st gear to be used on the sbxm counter shaft without any machine work. Comes with a billet 1/2 fork (that's a well known weak spot). Then they give billet spacers/washers to clearance a few things. If you look at their instagram or facebook page they have some vids. I know that they already have billet trans cases and transfer cases through PBE that are already being sold, and I wouldn't be surprised if those are based around the existing fwd dog gear sets and shafts. It's really amazing how fast the hardcore performance stuff is being developed.
They've made a kit that has a special bearing that allows the fwd 1st gear to be used on the sbxm counter shaft without any machine work. Comes with a billet 1/2 fork (that's a well known weak spot). Then they give billet spacers/washers to clearance a few things. If you look at their instagram or facebook page they have some vids. I know that they already have billet trans cases and transfer cases through PBE that are already being sold, and I wouldn't be surprised if those are based around the existing fwd dog gear sets and shafts. It's really amazing how fast the hardcore performance stuff is being developed.
Well if they come out with something that will allow me to take my existing PPG gearset and use that in either the sbxm or PBE bellhousing that would be great. The problem is I didn't want to have to sell a 10k trans setup I currently have to go out and have to spend another 14k to replace it.
Well I made it to the track. Not the greatest night. Best time was 11.7 @ 115. I really didn't think I would lose 6-7mph with the awd setup. The mph loss looks to all be in the 1/8. Same consistent 7.50's, but I used to run 98-99mph in the 1/8 for reference. I raised the launch up to 6200 from 5800 on the pass against the Evo, but it pushed through the clutch so I just rolled out. I had added a touch of timing and turned the duty cycle up on the solenoid also, but it ran 2 psi LOWER than the first run. I'm not sure if my solenoid is going out or if I have a short in the wiring. At KE/EO it's intermittently clicking, but not showing it's commanded in Neptune. Could also be the broken turbo mounting bolt I found too, but I didn't see any soot trails around the flange at all. I'm going to fix the broken bolt and then shove springs in the gate and run off of it until I get the new engine put together I think. Right now it will leave on 10 psi, hold 16 in all gears, so we'll see if I can get the power in a little quicker running off just springs. Hoping to tear into the new engine this week and get the block and pistons over to the machine shop. I decided to go back to vtec on this one. Stock gsr head/cams. As much as the 404's sound neat and help out with the b20 head, it just doesn't top end like I want it to. Plus with this ridiculous gearing I have now, I need all the rpm I can get. That's all I got for now!
06-26-2019, 09:12 AM
B20 w/ STC Hunter...AWD
