sup guys...
i need to know how is the B18C1 for boost project.
is it better then the B16A2?
thanks

roy

 

b18c1

 

c1 by far the displacement ads torque and power it revs just as well as the b16 but if you want the best get a c1 swap and a b16 head

 

C1 bro...you can't go wrong with the C1 mang...most people build the C1 for turbo setups...

 

b18c1

 

b18c1, alot of ppl i know have bought b16's, and almost always end up wishin they would have went C1. they both cool though.

 

b16a has a better rod/stroke ratio, and if you boost it the extra .2 litres is sort of a moot point. But then you could always do ls/vtec...

 

I agree with the c1 block and b16 head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 20civic00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c1 </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

if they are gonna both be stock motors on boost....go with which ever one has less mileage.....if ur gonna build it...go with the gsr

BTW....i've never seen a stock motor on boost last much longer than a few thousand miles...well anything over 8 psi....my advice...get the GSR and clean up the cylinder walls...get some fresh rings and pistons in there and don't get boost happy

 

b18b turbo nice power for not that much money

 

if u wanna boost and u dont mind waiting a little, i would recomend doing crv vtec. buy a b20 bottom end or long block, w/e, and put a gsr head on it. the stock b20 bottom end has MASSES of torque and will basically take anything you throw at it. alls u gotta do is search for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsp b20vteCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c1 </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 all day long............

 

b18c1

 

I would probably go with the c1 however i do remember reading article from some guy were his theory whas that the b16 was the best for boost because of the fact that it had less torque and would have better traction and that even though the c1 made more power it was useless because it would have a harder time putting it on the ground anyone happen to read this i dont even remember where i read it....

 

That would be on the importbuilders website. I had to make the same choice and went with the C1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reactone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b16a has a better rod/stroke ratio, and if you boost it the extra .2 litres is sort of a moot point. But then you could always do ls/vtec...</TD></TR></TABLE>

See my sig on the rod/stroke bullshit argument that you don't even understand.

.2 litres isn't a moot point when it means quicker spool, a better powerband, and more power at any given boost level.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tokes1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
.2 litres isn't a moot point when it means quicker spool, a better powerband, and more power at any given boost level.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is a moot point because if the turbo is properly sized it will spool as fast, and have the best powerband. if dyno sheets are you fancy then spool times doesnt matter and in that case you can make more power than is possible to put down on either motor.

 

thanks for commets

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WhiteNess &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW....i've never seen a stock motor on boost last much longer than a few thousand miles...well anything over 8 psi....my advice..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please dont go by PSI go by engine power. And i have seen Stock engines last two to three years on 350 horsepower not a problem......And yes don't be boost happy like he said ^^

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hatchvx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u wanna boost and u dont mind waiting a little, i would recomend doing crv vtec. buy a b20 bottom end or long block, w/e, and put a gsr head on it. the stock b20 bottom end has MASSES of torque and will basically take anything you throw at it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct me if i'm wrong but doesn't the B20 have weak sleeves ? I've just been told that by numerous people "Shrugs"
but then again people have made 600 on stock sleeves on B18s so lol B20's couldnt be too bad


There is nothing wrong with getting a B16 you'll be able to make almost the same amount of power as the B18c except for having the torque and the spool up advantage


Modified by SOHC FURY!!! at 9:21 AM 3/15/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It is a moot point because if the turbo is properly sized it will spool as fast, and have the best powerband. if dyno sheets are you fancy then spool times doesnt matter and in that case you can make more power than is possible to put down on either motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lets say you want to make 650 WHP. A GT35R .82 A/R is perfectly sized to make 650 WHP, doesn't matter the motor. It's not too big to give you more lag than you need to put up with, and not too small that you're going to be overspinning it and potentially causing damage to the turbo. It's still going to spool faster on the bigger motor, and put down more area under the curve for a faster car. Sizing the turbo properly has everything to do with it, but it's NOT a moot point. There's a guy on here with a T3/T67 HO on an 81.5mm B16, that's not too bad on an 84mm GSR but he said his car bogs down and it's hard to launch because boost comes on so late and so violently. He can't go to a smaller turbo because he needs the power potential of the T67, so how in this case is displacement a moot point?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tokes1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lets say you want to make 650 WHP. A GT35R .82 A/R is perfectly sized to make 650 WHP, doesn't matter the motor. It's not too big to give you more lag than you need to put up with, and not too small that you're going to be overspinning it and potentially causing damage to the turbo. It's still going to spool faster on the bigger motor, and put down more area under the curve for a faster car. Sizing the turbo properly has everything to do with it, but it's NOT a moot point. There's a guy on here with a T3/T67 HO on an 81.5mm B16, that's not too bad on an 84mm GSR but he said his car bogs down and it's hard to launch because boost comes on so late and so violently. He can't go to a smaller turbo because he needs the power potential of the T67, so how in this case is displacement a moot point?</TD></TR></TABLE>

In that case shouldnt we all run H22's? I mean think about it. if we base decisions on what motor to get simply from what is theroretically possible from a displacement standpoint(yeah you know, because tuning and proper turbo size has nothing to do with it) then why not an H22? I mean it should make way more tq and have far more area under the curve and cheaper than a b18c.

But being serious now. I am going to Humour you. since you mentioned 650hp,honda 4 cylinder, and area under the curve all in the same sentence.. if the flow properties of the GT35R .82 a/r versus your size motor doesnt give you the area under the curve you want at 650 hp then whats the solution? a better sized a/r or turbo. Your example was like saying a T88 .96 a/r can make 650 hp on any motor but lags to infinity and doesnt provide the area under the curve your looking for on you b18c. gee how do you remedy that problem?

 

Sorry but I got to be the one to go with a b16. And its not because I have 1 in use and have like 2 more sitting in my garage or anything but yes there is no replacement for displacement(b18c1) but with the b16, its been proven on paper/magazine, that there's less stress on the pistons at I believe around 11-12000 rpm than the b18c1 at 10,000 rpms. Hope fully by late may, I will have my moderetly bottom end built b16 with a Garrett gt35r mated to a nice top mount manifold, and posibly add in a 50 shot to help out with the launch. Hoping to make around 550-600? Also get what you can afford too. Good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeper98civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry but I got to be the one to go with a b16. And its not because I have 1 in use and have like 2 more sitting in my garage or anything but yes there is no replacement for displacement(b18c1) but with the b16, its been proven on paper/magazine, that there's less stress on the pistons at I believe around 11-12000 rpm than the b18c1 at 10,000 rpms. Hope fully by late may, I will have my moderetly bottom end built b16 with a Garrett gt35r mated to a nice top mount manifold, and posibly add in a 50 shot to help out with the launch. Hoping to make around 550-600? Also get what you can afford too. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, r u serious?? Who spins their engines to these rpms besides those who drive straight drag cars? Not such a good comparison imho.

OT: Go with the c1, if you build it right it is a very good platform to run. Not that the b16 is horrible, but hp and torque can be made a bit easier with the extra .2 liters and you can spin it almost as high as a b16. GL.

Though your hp goals and what you are using the car for (i.e. street, strip or both) would help out if you want more specific suggestions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In that case shouldnt we all run H22's? I mean think about it. if we base decisions on what motor to get simply from what is theroretically possible from a displacement standpoint(yeah you know, because tuning and proper turbo size has nothing to do with it) then why not an H22? I mean it should make way more tq and have far more area under the curve and cheaper than a b18c.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Extra weight, the need to sleeve it to run aftermarket pistons, and transmissions that shift poorly are a few reasons I could think of to chose a B-series over an H-series.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But being serious now. I am going to Humour you. since you mentioned 650hp,honda 4 cylinder, and area under the curve all in the same sentence.. if the flow properties of the GT35R .82 a/r versus your size motor doesnt give you the area under the curve you want at 650 hp then whats the solution? a better sized a/r or turbo. Your example was like saying a T88 .96 a/r can make 650 hp on any motor but lags to infinity and doesnt provide the area under the curve your looking for on you b18c. gee how do you remedy that problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>

No, my example isn't anything like talking about putting a T88 on a 650 HP motor. A GT35R is as properly sized as you can get for a 650 WHP, and on a larger motor it's going to produce a better powerband with quicker spool and make for a faster car at any given power level. Jeff Evans said they're shifting their car at 9500 RPM's with the GT35R, and based on the dyno sheets he posted it's making full boost and good power starting at 5500. If you don't think 4000 RPM's of power is a broad powerband, you're on crack.