Ok guys.. So I have new B18c sleeved block that I want to start to break in. At this point I havent even moved the car due to a check engine light for code 6 ECT water temperature. I'm a bit stumped because my car is NOT over heating, my fan kicks on at normal operating temperature and my temp gauge is not going all the way to hot, its working normal. Ive even tried to clear the code on S300, but the check engine light pops right back up. Any ideas what else it could be ??

 

Air bubble in the cooling system
sensor wiring could be bad
sensor could be bad, etc.

if the ecu detects a wiring error, sensor resistance value error, or a missing sensor then it will throw a code. also if there's an air bubble in the system around the sensor it can cause issues as well.

 

Thanks, I'm pretty sure theres no air bubbles in the system as I did bleed the cooling system at initial start up. I will double check all the plugs and wiring. Just to make sure its the sensor below I need to be checking ??

 

That sensor sends info to the ecu.
One wiire from the sensor goes to sensor gnd from the ecu.
(I'm sorry I was wrong there is a sensor gnd and a feedback to the ecu. No 5v from the ecu. )

The motor could also be over heating and your temp sending unit is bad. Its the single pin connector right next to the ect sensor.

Check the wiring first. If you have a meter probe the ect sensor when the motors cold take a resistance reading then start the motor and watch the resistance go down I think. I honestly need to check the serrvice manual I forgot the values

 

Yea I think the resistance goes down as well...

Bleeding the system from it being totally empty can be a bitch, air bubbles will be in places you didn't know possible and will suck to purge.

just purging on level ground won't be enough, you need to elevate the front end of the car. anytime I do a fresh build startup I normally have to jack up the front end of the car a few feet so all of the trapped air has an easy path out.

 

I usually just take the top radiator hose off fill the block from there then fill the radiator and reconnect the hose. I've never ever had a problem wiith air bubbles.

 

I'll go ahead and flush out the entire cooling system. Its just distilled water anyways, so no biggie. I'll change out the sensor too, autozone has it in stock and then I'll start it up again with the front end elevated.

Dang, this means I'll have to start up my car again and see if the CEL goes away :/.. I'm a bit worried about this because from what I've been reading is that AFR's need to be in the 14's when the car is up to operational temperature. My AFR's are at 11.9 right now and some people say letting it warm up all the way could possibly cause issues with my rings sealing properly. How true is this ?

 

Wash out the cylinders with fuel? Yes possible. The rings could move because of all the fuel.

Idk why you would just swap parts out without finding the problem first. Good luck.

And this my friends is why I don't bother helping people anymore I Always waste my time giving a lot of info on trouble shooting and its always " ill just swap out this sensor and if not this sensor"

Good day, sir

 

pulling the upper hose would help.

before you flush the whole system, wasting coolant and starting over form 0, simply jack the front end up the car up about 2-3ft, put it on jackstands, pull the rad cap and let the motor come up to temp for 5-10 minutes. This should move enough coolant through the system where the bubble (if there is one) will come out