B16a2 basic setup
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B16a2 basic setup
Hi all new to this and looking to try something different
had a look through the faqs but wanted to post incase of out of date info
Looking for a small turbo setup on a budget
Wanted to know what turbo to go for& realistic power goal i could go for on a unbuilt motor
Looking to learn by getting hands on but need to be put in the right direction!
I am not looking for huge whp
Ek hatch B16a2 uk vti spec all stock current
Cheers
had a look through the faqs but wanted to post incase of out of date info
Looking for a small turbo setup on a budget
Wanted to know what turbo to go for& realistic power goal i could go for on a unbuilt motor
Looking to learn by getting hands on but need to be put in the right direction!
I am not looking for huge whp
Ek hatch B16a2 uk vti spec all stock current
Cheers
#2
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Re: B16a2 basic setup
Math doesn't become out-dated. The turbo selection information in the FAQs sticky is all math. If you really want to be hands-on in your learning process, you need to thoroughly read that sticky thread and make an effort to understand the math behind turbo selection, otherwise we'll just be telling you what turbo to use, and you'll have absolutely no clue why.
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Re: B16a2 basic setup
If you are staying stock internals and want a fun responsive setup then look for a straight t3 60trim or something like a gt2860r or 2860rs or a 2871r. I would only choose those last two if you want more power down the road.
the 2860r is a 60 trim t3 compressor wheel with a smaller turbine wheel and a ball bearing CHRA. either that or the 60 trim t3 will make for a very responsive 260-275hp street car.
I'd also stick with a quality tubular log mani or a good cast manifold. both of these will be t3 flanged and support a 2 bolt 35/38mm wastegate.
the 60 trim t3 will have a ford 5 bolt style turbine housing. the 2860r comes by default with a Garrett Nissan style t25 flanged 5 bolt outlet (different from the t3) but if you are buying one new from a vendor like ATP you can choose a t3 flanged turbine housing.
if you want to keep ac both of those style manifolds will allow it. you'll have to run a 2.5" downpipe to clear the compressor but if your fabricator is good he can cheat a bend and run a full 3" downpipe. a good 2.5"-3" exhaust is needed.
I would stay with 2.5" intercooler piping on the hot and cold side as these kits are readily available. I would suggest a quality intercooler like a Garrett, spearco, or PWR if the budget allows, of not a unit from treadstone will fit the bill and not break the wallet. also run a quality blow off valve like a Greddy unit or something similar.
as far as engine management I'd stick with a chipped p28 ecu using either Neptune or an S300. I'm assuming your Ek is a 99-00 so you'll need an obd2b-obd1 conversion harness (obd2a-obd1 if it's 96-98). boomslang is quality but they aren't cheap. I know people have had good results with the 25 dollar eBay conversion harnesses as well.
the stock map sensor will only read to 10-11psi so you will need a sensor that reads a larger range. the GM 3bar is tried and true but it won't replace the OEM directly. omni makes a 3bar that is a direct OEM replacement.
for fuel you'll need a walbro 255 and for your power level a set of dsm 450s will be perfect. if the ones you buy haven't been serviced I suggest you get them cleaned
Also ARP headstuds and a new OEM hg are a good idea.
you'll also need a stronger clutch.
but that should be all you need
the 2860r is a 60 trim t3 compressor wheel with a smaller turbine wheel and a ball bearing CHRA. either that or the 60 trim t3 will make for a very responsive 260-275hp street car.
I'd also stick with a quality tubular log mani or a good cast manifold. both of these will be t3 flanged and support a 2 bolt 35/38mm wastegate.
the 60 trim t3 will have a ford 5 bolt style turbine housing. the 2860r comes by default with a Garrett Nissan style t25 flanged 5 bolt outlet (different from the t3) but if you are buying one new from a vendor like ATP you can choose a t3 flanged turbine housing.
if you want to keep ac both of those style manifolds will allow it. you'll have to run a 2.5" downpipe to clear the compressor but if your fabricator is good he can cheat a bend and run a full 3" downpipe. a good 2.5"-3" exhaust is needed.
I would stay with 2.5" intercooler piping on the hot and cold side as these kits are readily available. I would suggest a quality intercooler like a Garrett, spearco, or PWR if the budget allows, of not a unit from treadstone will fit the bill and not break the wallet. also run a quality blow off valve like a Greddy unit or something similar.
as far as engine management I'd stick with a chipped p28 ecu using either Neptune or an S300. I'm assuming your Ek is a 99-00 so you'll need an obd2b-obd1 conversion harness (obd2a-obd1 if it's 96-98). boomslang is quality but they aren't cheap. I know people have had good results with the 25 dollar eBay conversion harnesses as well.
the stock map sensor will only read to 10-11psi so you will need a sensor that reads a larger range. the GM 3bar is tried and true but it won't replace the OEM directly. omni makes a 3bar that is a direct OEM replacement.
for fuel you'll need a walbro 255 and for your power level a set of dsm 450s will be perfect. if the ones you buy haven't been serviced I suggest you get them cleaned
Also ARP headstuds and a new OEM hg are a good idea.
you'll also need a stronger clutch.
but that should be all you need
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#8
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Re: B16a2 basic setup
If he doesn't want to read, then he doesn't want to learn. Life ain't all about simple short sentences and cliff notes all the time. When in doubt, read it again.
Last edited by TheShodan; 05-10-2014 at 06:59 AM. Reason: clarity. For OP not for "NotARacist"
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