B16 rods in a6 block ??
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B16 rods in a6 block ??
i havent been able to find anything in the search about this..... i recently took apart my a6 block which im rebuilding........ and i had some b16 rods laying around they look the same length.... the only thing i need to do is bore out the whole for the wrist pin and remove some material from the end of the rod to make it fit.......im sure its alot more complicated than im making it sound.....has anyone done this before or have any experience doing this ??
#3
Re: (The Stance)
A 30 second google search for "D16A6 rod length" reveals that the A6 rod length is 5.394" and the B16A is 5.290", so no they will not work. They are the same length as LS rods though, and I believe some people have ran LS rods with them.
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ls rods can be used in a d-block this i know....and sure the b16 rod is slightly shorter....so how does it make it non useable ? i would think that even with the shorter length the rod could still be used
#6
Re: (The Stance)
It's not going to work because using those rods will put the pistons a full tenth of an inch down in the hole which is going to kill your quench and squish and make the motor much more likely to detonate. I don't know a whole lot about d-series motors, but the rod could also be short enough to pull the piston out of the cylinder bore at BDC, causing excessive wear on the skirts from the piston rocking in the bore.
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ohhh wow ok see that i didnt know thank you for explaining it but what if the set up was turbocharged would the shorter rod not lower compression ?? i have to check just how low it goes down im actually going to attempt this
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Re: (The Stance)
im not fully positive so im not going to comment, but this site will show you the specs...
http://www.raceseek.com/honda_specs.htm
http://www.raceseek.com/honda_specs.htm
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the b16 rods are .104" shorter will it really make that much of a difference to the point that piston skirts will come out at the bottom
#11
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Re: (The Stance)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B16A Rods matched with non-US Supra 1G-GTE pistons:
I calculated the following #'s for this combo
Piston volume = -7cc dish
Compression height = 33mm
Rod length = 134mm
Pro's of this setup = Strong B16 rods and forged Supra pistons
This is information has been gathered from Turbopanda ( username on https://honda-tech.com ). He sells this set-up for about $400.
The shorter B16 rods with a D16 stroke will result in a 1.49 rod/stroke ratio, down from the stock D16 1.52 R/S ratio.
The Toyota pistons' height make up for the length of the rod, that's why it’s still usable in a D series engine.
1G-GTE Supra pistons are 75mm. B16A rods are a lot stronger than D16 rods, and can handle boost way better. The rods are modified in order to accept the Toyota pistons. Installation is as simple as replacing your pistons and rods. The Crankshaft needs no modification, although the bottom of the short block will need to be notched a little so that there is enough clearance for the B16A rods
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I calculated the following #'s for this combo
Piston volume = -7cc dish
Compression height = 33mm
Rod length = 134mm
Pro's of this setup = Strong B16 rods and forged Supra pistons
This is information has been gathered from Turbopanda ( username on https://honda-tech.com ). He sells this set-up for about $400.
The shorter B16 rods with a D16 stroke will result in a 1.49 rod/stroke ratio, down from the stock D16 1.52 R/S ratio.
The Toyota pistons' height make up for the length of the rod, that's why it’s still usable in a D series engine.
1G-GTE Supra pistons are 75mm. B16A rods are a lot stronger than D16 rods, and can handle boost way better. The rods are modified in order to accept the Toyota pistons. Installation is as simple as replacing your pistons and rods. The Crankshaft needs no modification, although the bottom of the short block will need to be notched a little so that there is enough clearance for the B16A rods
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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the rod also needs to be slightly shaved on the crank end to fit on the crank...the issue im having is that i cant even get the rod onto the crank cause the crank end of the rod is slightly thicker by like a hair..
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Re: (jsw_1986)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsw_1986 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I read somewhere that you could use LS rods in d series motors... you just have to take the rods to a machine shop and have them beveled. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep.. You need shave a little on the sides of the big end and then have the small end rebushed.. Crower used to do this but I dont think they do anymore..
Yep.. You need shave a little on the sides of the big end and then have the small end rebushed.. Crower used to do this but I dont think they do anymore..
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Re: (tgreaves)
I've read on d-series.org that you can use b16 rods and 1jzgte pistons.
rods have to be shaved and bushed to fit piston pin and rods also shaved to fit crank. It will work and you will have forged pistons with larger valve relief
rods have to be shaved and bushed to fit piston pin and rods also shaved to fit crank. It will work and you will have forged pistons with larger valve relief
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when u guys say rebushed me mean drilling out the hole to make it larger enough for the b16 wrist pin to fit right ??....the thing is i wont be using any aftermarket pistons i simply plan on using the a6 pistons as thats all that my budget can afford......
on a side note i managed to use the a6 wrist pin and connected the b16 rod to the a6 piston but it was a little sloppy but not enough to make the pin come out will this be safe enough ? or should i just enlarge to hole to accept the b16 wrist pin ??
on a side note i managed to use the a6 wrist pin and connected the b16 rod to the a6 piston but it was a little sloppy but not enough to make the pin come out will this be safe enough ? or should i just enlarge to hole to accept the b16 wrist pin ??
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Re: B16 rods in a6 block ?? (gotboostedvr6)
ive been a memeber for some time....and that site is basically dead......when u guys say rebushing the small end im assuming some sort of brass spacer ? so that when the pin is inserted it fills in the gap ??
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