I was wondering how much boost a b16 can handle with this setup
b16a block
b16 crank
b16 rods
gsr pistons
planning on cryo and shot peening the rods pistons and crank. I'm not really look for someone to say it not worth as I'm only 17 and don't have the money to build it how I want so for now I'm balling on a budget lol any help will be greatly appreciated
thanks

 

"How much boost" is the wrong question. 10PSI through a T3 is a lot different than 10PSI through a GT65. "How much power" is the right question.

 

Mid 350 would be nice. Id like to get a bigger turbo than needed so I don't Max the turbo Lol. I was looking at a 6262 twin scroll on low boost

 

Too much for stock internals... and the gsr pistons don't make any difference..

 

I've seen way to many b16 make over 300 on stock blocks that's it. And the gsr pistons do do something see have the b16 has high dome pistions and the gsr dosnt and I did a compression test at 9.6.1 and gsr ringlands are stronger lol

 

You can't guess compression from test numbers... gsr ring lands aren't that strong... its still a cast piston.

300 is about all you'll make on stock internals... anything above that and it's a time bomb

 

It wasn't a guess on the compression. Still aiming for 350 because I think it can be done and still be reliable. And if I blow the block up I can b16 and gsr blocks dirt cheap not to worried

 

You have to know stroke, bore, compression height and other things to accurately gauge static compression... but i forgot you've been a member for a few hours and have 4 posts, so you must know everything...

350 is dangerous on a b16 with stock internals (and no, having gsr pistons does not mean its safer)

If you want to waste time swapping motors every few months then be my guest

 

I had a gsr I was going to do but a friend spun rod bearing. Ended up getting a b16 block. This temporary till I get another gsr block then I won't worry about it blowing as it will an eagle. Crank CP pistons and eagle rods. And just because I'm new to honda tech doesn't mean anything to how much I know. Js

 

You don't need an eagle crank.... people have made 1000hp on stock Honda cranks

 

Yes people have done it on stock honda cranks but why do all this work to the motor and still have a weak link. And I don't care what you the eagle crank is way stronger that why they are for 1500 hp lol

 

For your goals its a total waste of money.

 

The b16 I'm aiming for 350 id be happy with 300 and the gsr I'm for 500 I would agree if I was aiming for 350 on the gsr. But I'm going for 500 as a car I could daily

 

Unfortunately, this information is...well, horrible.

1) Actually you've created a weak link using the Eagle crank. over the stock for extreme durability and use. Unless you plan on creating a custom application using it (which I don't recommend) you're going backwards using this as opposed to stock

2) Even worse. The ringlands between the two piston types make no difference at all. They are made from the same material in both the B16 and B18 and have the same level of usability..

3) 350whp on stock internals is about the limit reagardless of what you go with, to go with a divided housing (Not a "twin scroll" , sorry) in a T4 design will actually make your responsiveness even worse, not better. And then to use a 62mm inducer turbo is even more insane. My old aunt's Geo Tracker will out accelerate you before 60mph at that rate. Please think more reasonably for your turbo choice as this is WAY out of the box for any usefulness.

Perhaps looking through other's builds in the B16 forum or other sections may give you a better indication as to which parts one should and shouldn't use for your project. Lot of tried and true setups there that have gone through what you're planning and thought otherwise.

Next thing you'll tell me is you found an AWESOME deal on a BWR exhaust manifold. Another Not-so-safe choice...

 

500 still does not need a different crank... I've never seen a Honda crank snap under any power level... don't waste your money

 

Mac, this is going to be a fun thread lol

 

I do mean twin scroll dual ball bearing turbo as Im planning to use it in a build with a motor that will do just fine with how much boost a 6262 turbo can spin out

 

The housing isn't a true twin scroll housing. Its simply divided.

 

Ok. I'll make this quick..

True Twin Scroll Housing




Cross section of EFR Twin scroll:




Mitsubishi Twin scroll housing with a full channel exhaust separation is unique









Divided housing- mistaken for twin scroll due to marketing misnomer





This is simply a divided sectioning and is not a full divided channel which is what your Precision 6262 Ball bearing is.



Here's why for the output you are looking at why this is a bad idea for now unless top end only for your larger divided housing (which is why they are typically used on larger volutes)

 

Basically that

 

The twin scroll still.

 

Are not..... read his damn post

 

Umm.. my friend did you NOT read this? Your "twin scroll" naming convention doesn't apply to your PRECISION TURBO.

After this, i'm starting to think you're just trolling to cause a ruckus. Perhaps we should recommend that this thread not go anywhere if you're just not understanding here.

What's next? Nah nah, nah nah boo boo? What you say bounces off me and sticks to you like glue?

 

I have both divided and true twin scroll turbine housings...
There is a difference and precision does not use twin scrolls, only divided

 

When did I ever say Precision?? Lol