b16 or gsr block?
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b16 or gsr block?
Im going to be boosting my 99 si, i am gonna just put the kit on the stock b16 for now but i want to build the bottom end, should i pull out the stock block and build it or pick up a gsr block and build that and put it in when its ready to go? I will be using the peakboost ftw kit and my goal is around 350whp. Parts im going to use so far is a chipped p28 ecu to get tuned on crome, exhaust, 650cc injectors, gsr cams, and the rest im still unsure about, any advice would be great, thanks.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
either block can support 350whp when it is built. The difference is the amount of torque used. Though our honda engines are not torque happy at all under 2.5 litres, The more the stroke, the more the torque (in addition to appropriate bore). If its your first turbo car and you have a B-series engine, just use that to start off with, and don't over work yourself with the rest.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
if I was in your situation, I would go ahead and boost the stock motor in the car and have fun with it for a while, in the meantime id build a simple cp piston and eagle rod gsr block on the side, that way u can still drive and enjoy the car and when u get boost hungry u can throw in the gsr block and crank up the boost
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
i am in exactly the same boat. I purchased a gsr block from a guy on craigslist for about 200 bucks. i was planning on running an N/A setup, but after calculating it out, the difference in price between ~200whp and ~450 was about $1000. so i talked to my tuner, and he said the gsr block was better because of the girdle about the mains, not to mention the extra 200cc's.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
thanks for the replies, im gonna just boost the motor for now and build a block on the side. Is there any other block that i could benefit from or just a gsr block built? And anything to reccomend to go with my turbo set-up that would be useful. thanks
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
Boost the stock motor for now. Throw it away if you are interested in building one, there is a big difference in powerband when you get away from the no stroke B16.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
i am in exactly the same boat. I purchased a gsr block from a guy on craigslist for about 200 bucks. i was planning on running an N/A setup, but after calculating it out, the difference in price between ~200whp and ~450 was about $1000. so i talked to my tuner, and he said the gsr block was better because of the girdle about the mains, not to mention the extra 200cc's.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
Exactly. and its cheaper in the long run to use the GSR block.
You can pickup a OBD1 GSR shortblock, sell the crank, pistons, rods, and oil cooler for 350, and assuming you got the shortblock for around 400 dollars, that means 50 into the block.
Buy a LS shortblock for 100 bucks, pull the crank, and sell the rods for 50, and block for 50.
50 dollar for your bottom end (of course you need rods/ pistons/ oil pump/ gaskets/ bearings ect) and now you dont have to worry about oil feed lines or any of that junk. When your ready, just bolt the B16 head on and have fun.
#13
Re: b16 or gsr block?
Exactly. and its cheaper in the long run to use the GSR block.
You can pickup a OBD1 GSR shortblock, sell the crank, pistons, rods, and oil cooler for 350, and assuming you got the shortblock for around 400 dollars, that means 50 into the block.
Buy a LS shortblock for 100 bucks, pull the crank, and sell the rods for 50, and block for 50.
50 dollar for your bottom end (of course you need rods/ pistons/ oil pump/ gaskets/ bearings ect) and now you dont have to worry about oil feed lines or any of that junk. When your ready, just bolt the B16 head on and have fun.
You can pickup a OBD1 GSR shortblock, sell the crank, pistons, rods, and oil cooler for 350, and assuming you got the shortblock for around 400 dollars, that means 50 into the block.
Buy a LS shortblock for 100 bucks, pull the crank, and sell the rods for 50, and block for 50.
50 dollar for your bottom end (of course you need rods/ pistons/ oil pump/ gaskets/ bearings ect) and now you dont have to worry about oil feed lines or any of that junk. When your ready, just bolt the B16 head on and have fun.
#14
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
Exactly. and its cheaper in the long run to use the GSR block.
You can pickup a OBD1 GSR shortblock, sell the crank, pistons, rods, and oil cooler for 350, and assuming you got the shortblock for around 400 dollars, that means 50 into the block.
Buy a LS shortblock for 100 bucks, pull the crank, and sell the rods for 50, and block for 50.
50 dollar for your bottom end (of course you need rods/ pistons/ oil pump/ gaskets/ bearings ect) and now you dont have to worry about oil feed lines or any of that junk. When your ready, just bolt the B16 head on and have fun.
You can pickup a OBD1 GSR shortblock, sell the crank, pistons, rods, and oil cooler for 350, and assuming you got the shortblock for around 400 dollars, that means 50 into the block.
Buy a LS shortblock for 100 bucks, pull the crank, and sell the rods for 50, and block for 50.
50 dollar for your bottom end (of course you need rods/ pistons/ oil pump/ gaskets/ bearings ect) and now you dont have to worry about oil feed lines or any of that junk. When your ready, just bolt the B16 head on and have fun.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
I'd rather have a girdle for the long haul than not have a girdle. In the 400-600whp range the GSR bottom ends (or LS, sleeved B20, etc) statistically last longer.
It's cheaper to get an LS block and fit a GSR girdle to it than to buy a GSR engine and fit an LS crank to it. That being said, if you already have a GSR bottom end I wouldn't go to the ends of the earth to stuff an LS crank into it... 3mm bore gets you a lot more than a little over a mm of stroke.
It's cheaper to get an LS block and fit a GSR girdle to it than to buy a GSR engine and fit an LS crank to it. That being said, if you already have a GSR bottom end I wouldn't go to the ends of the earth to stuff an LS crank into it... 3mm bore gets you a lot more than a little over a mm of stroke.
#16
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
OP-If you have a GSR block already, use it. If not, you can buy an LS cheap, build it and push 350 with ease all day. You can push more if you want. I think as long as it is built correctly and you have a solid tune, it shouldnt be a problem . That's up to your tuner though. Buying 2 blocks and selling stuff etc. Just seems like more of a hassle than what its worth IMO. Just use what you have whether LS or GSR. Either will do the trick. Good luck.
Last edited by Death_to_Thieves; 02-16-2009 at 12:14 PM.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
Exactly. and its cheaper in the long run to use the GSR block.
You can pickup a OBD1 GSR shortblock, sell the crank, pistons, rods, and oil cooler for 350, and assuming you got the shortblock for around 400 dollars, that means 50 into the block.
Buy a LS shortblock for 100 bucks, pull the crank, and sell the rods for 50, and block for 50.
50 dollar for your bottom end (of course you need rods/ pistons/ oil pump/ gaskets/ bearings ect) and now you dont have to worry about oil feed lines or any of that junk. When your ready, just bolt the B16 head on and have fun.
You can pickup a OBD1 GSR shortblock, sell the crank, pistons, rods, and oil cooler for 350, and assuming you got the shortblock for around 400 dollars, that means 50 into the block.
Buy a LS shortblock for 100 bucks, pull the crank, and sell the rods for 50, and block for 50.
50 dollar for your bottom end (of course you need rods/ pistons/ oil pump/ gaskets/ bearings ect) and now you dont have to worry about oil feed lines or any of that junk. When your ready, just bolt the B16 head on and have fun.
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
Who is a manufacturer that has reliable parts and etc. for the block (pistons, rods, etc...)? And once i get the b16 head on the gsr block with the ls crank, will that be just a gsr with a b16 head, or will that be considered a ls vtec sicne im using the ls crank?
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
go with cp pistons and eagle rods, (just make sure to match your rods to your crank) and oem headgasket and bearings
as far as what to call it? its a gsr block with ls crank and b16 head so its not really a gsr any more, and its deff not a lsvtec cause it has a gsr block with oil passage for vtec cast into it so idk?
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Re: b16 or gsr block?
go with cp pistons and eagle rods, (just make sure to match your rods to your crank) and oem headgasket and bearings
as far as what to call it? its a gsr block with ls crank and b16 head so its not really a gsr any more, and its deff not a lsvtec cause it has a gsr block with oil passage for vtec cast into it so idk?
as far as what to call it? its a gsr block with ls crank and b16 head so its not really a gsr any more, and its deff not a lsvtec cause it has a gsr block with oil passage for vtec cast into it so idk?
#23
Re: b16 or gsr block?
go with cp pistons and eagle rods, (just make sure to match your rods to your crank) and oem headgasket and bearings
as far as what to call it? its a gsr block with ls crank and b16 head so its not really a gsr any more, and its deff not a lsvtec cause it has a gsr block with oil passage for vtec cast into it so idk?
as far as what to call it? its a gsr block with ls crank and b16 head so its not really a gsr any more, and its deff not a lsvtec cause it has a gsr block with oil passage for vtec cast into it so idk?