SpeedRacerEX-R

I have a Greddy 18g kit on a civic with a gsr motor with fmic. My radiator is the skunk2 aluminum dual core that bolts in and uses the oe fan. Running 50/50 coolant and distilled water. 170 degree thermostat. Granted it is Northern California so the temps are ~108 outside. Is it throwing this code just because of how hot it is outside? Should I change my coolant setup to "water wetter?" I would really like to not get rid of the front mount or the radiator or a/c condensor.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

OE fan isn't cutting it for sure.

Water wetter will help to a point but you have to remember the heated air from the intercooler is now passing through the radiator.

Look into making some ducting between the intercooler and radiator to increase airflow through the radiator

2kdrift

Code 11 is triggered by ECT (engine Coolant Temp Sensor) the point at which it comes on is set within the hondata software, you should probally be logging the temps for a bit so you know what you up against. As stated get a better fan, possibly do some type of duct work and water wetter might help a tiny bit.

SpeedRacerEX-R

Can anyone recommend a replacement fan?

KevinEF7

The biggest SPAL fan you can fit. Well worth the $100, the motors on some of the models are very large so be sure to check what youre buying and measure first to make sure you have the clearance. Anything over 1500cfm should cure your woes

This is all ofcourse assuming your overheating only while moving slow or idle. If you are overheating while driving/highway the issue is a little harder to remedy but not a huge deal, you didnt specify so I wont go into detail on fixing that just yet

2kdrift

x2 and that would be a 12" spal when using a half size radiator, I have found it helps at both low and higher speeds

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You can get a 13" SPAL in there depending on the radiator used

SpeedRacerEX-R

It seems to doing this primarily at highway speeds. So fabbing up some ductwork should be what I try first?

Fishy_hondaman

On hondata you can increase the warning temp from the oem 220 F CEL. But I wouldent. I've read some DSM's were going to 240 degrees.

Get that 2 cans water wetter and water for the summer. My fan fuse blew once too its in the engine bay fusebox.

SpeedRacerEX-R

Well... the water wetter didn't work and there is no room for ducting. Has anyone successfully converted to Integra radiator and condenser? Do you think replacing the cast Greddy manifold would help? What about cutting slots in the cowl the air has a place to exit?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This is not a surprise. The issue was already stated. You need a better fan
Not in your case, because your Skunk2 Radiator is more than sufficient over a stock one. The condensor size makes no difference in you ECTs.
Again, no. this is because the ambient engine bay temperatures have nothing to do with your engine coolant temperatures rising. I've lived in the Bay area in the summer with the same GReddy kit over 16 years ago. It ran perfectly fine. But I also had better cooling fans.

Last time. This has nothing to do with your Engine Coolant Temperatures within the engine itself, only the ambient temperatures outside of it. You need a better/higher efficienty CFM Fan to assist with this, and not worry about the cowl induction or other engine bay temperature mitigators.

Hopefully you haven't compromised the headgasket yet, in which nothing will keep them down. Please follow the other suggestions that were noted earlier in the year of this thread. You need a better fan, sir..

Get back to us when you've actually performed that task first.

Good luck to you.

SpeedRacerEX-R

It's overheating at highway speeds. Why would the fan have anything to do with that?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You failed to mention this particular symptom. In addition to the better fan that is used to cool the car before you get to the proper highway speeds, that generally means that the radiator itself is not getting enough access to the air. If the intercooler is too close to the radiator (like a "tucked" system) that can cause the intercoole to rob the radiator of getting good air access and therefore can cause an overheating condition. (using ducting and cowls as you mentioned wouldn't help you either, as I stated those deal with engine bay ambient temperatures, not what you're doing.

Perhaps you need to start logging your temperatures, (at what period the ECT reaches its highest temp, and when it goes down to normal), what temperatures your ECT is actually reading, and some photos of your engine bay layout.. This will really help us on H-T narrow down a proper diagnosis.

SpeedRacerEX-R

I can do that. The intercooler IS pretty close. A couple of inches in front I would say. I mention the condenser because I REALLY don't want to be rid of a/c. :-/ It usually only does that when the outside air temp is over 100. When it's below that I haven't had the problem. The engine bay ambient temp is 180 via my temp gun. Exhaust manifold is 750. ECT I would have to log though.

SpeedRacerEX-R

SpeedRacerEX-R

SpeedRacerEX-R

SpeedRacerEX-R

SpeedRacerEX-R

So just replace the fan and come back here when it doesn't work?

SpeedRacerEX-R

Here's some data log files. IAT == 180. ECT == 210. Outside Air Temp == 98
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...m8?usp=sharing

SpeedRacerEX-R

Another side note. Manifold temp was ~800 degrees at freeway speed. ~350 around town. I assume this is because the rpms were lower and not constant.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Exhaust Gas Temperatures are the reason. Perfectly normal