2001GSRSC

I agree, the transmissions break really easy. Even at 250WHP. A clutch that holds and LSD, be careful grabbing those gears.The case can crack. I know my trans guy real well. If I drop it, bring it in, 2-3 day turnaround. At usually under $4-500 to R it. It is not a $3000 automatic type bank hit.

You got to start somewhere if your doing it. It should be a journey to 350 WHP. You need some stories with it with lessons learned. Grow from it, build again. Its a vicious cycle.

The great thing about it is, there is a level of play for everybody. Once Laptop tuning is there, you can add a dry shot of nitrous, or water injection. If you think your not speedy enough. I got a NOS solenoid for $25. A 10lb Bottle and line can be had for less than $100. A fill is $45 local at Victory Lanes cascade. Probably last 80-100x 0-60's (not full 1/4 pulls) with the 10lb bottle and a #25 jet. That's like an extra 35 hp @ 0 PSI , 65hp at 15PSI. Fuel added by software. A 10lb tank lasts me all summer. Spools the turbo. $45 for a summer full of +65hp 0-60s, that math could make sense to somebody. I did it for the technical challenge.

Start with a great Honda product. Keep it well, tune it, maintain it to be tip-top. Honda will reward you in spades.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

OP, I would save up a little cash and swap a B-Series, a GSR if you can.

A. You will not have any transmission issues to 600whp/ I had a stock CTR that lasted until I sold it plenty of 10/11 second passes and street driven for years.
B. You can get 300-350whp out of the stock motor with more torque then you're going to get from a built D.
C. You have a platform that will allow you to grow way beyond a D. For example you can build a daily 500whp B-series that will be a lot more reliable than a 500whp D would be.

The only advantage of a D is if it comes in your car then there is no need to purchase a motor setup but to get it to 350whp the cost of building it will be close to the cost of just buying a B.

Either way good luck on whatever you choose, just thought I would give my 2.

2001GSRSC

Az Civic's thinking is sound. Go B engine. He mentions it as a daily use vehicle. Consider this build theory. A 350 Whp D or B with an oversized turbo, will not realize full boost until 3rd or 4th gear depending on final drive allocation. In a daily driver where are you ever pulling thru 4th gear WOT? Not often enough to make it the target range. If you were going to drive it I suggest a NOS dry shot and 1 bar of boost. Nitrous will work great for 1st 2nd and 3rd but its inherent ability to add power fades by 4-5th. The oversized turbo works just the opposite , its common to see only 6-7PSI thru 1st and 2nd on these types of builds. So they compensate each other, and cooperate as a bonus when used together. The levels are the safest possible with these power adders, nothing extreme but you'll near the 300 goal together. Full 1bar boost is spooled thru 2nd with a NOS bump. No lag! Safe as can be for every day of the week. Daily fun fun fun.

I do not use NOS in first gear, it is possible to do.

NVturbo

sorry but running a turbocharged car without an intercooler is just PLAIN STUPID. People do this for 2 reasons: 1. they are cheapasses 2. they are incompetent and think cutting corners is cool.

That setup looks like the typical "turbocharged Honda" being sold on Craigslist. Half-assed done and wanting 3x the value of all the useless parts on the car. Nice try though...

2001GSRSC

Nice try? It worked out really well. This is version .9 in the pic. the scribe line on the outlet hose was cut and resectioned. That left room for a cone filter element to be placed on the T3/4. It was less intercooler but fully functional.

You are under the impression that an intercooler is necessary then? No, they are not.

I'll call bullshit on your 325 whp D16 on only 12 PSI! You wont break 200 on my dyno I used.

NVturbo

Yeah, my bad. I just like to post up some made-up numbers. I won't break 200? haha...funny **** dude. On the first dyno run, it made 248 without any adjustment. Don't be mad your setup looks and runs like ****. You mad hoe?

Oh by the way, if you can't even spell ENKEI correctly, you surely are an IDIOT.

2001GSRSC

How you making 324hp with a D at only 12 psi?

NVturbo

it's built...duh. You think I just slapped on a turbo kit and cross my fingers hoping for miracles?

Txdragon

Depends on the turbo used, mods, tune. I made 347 on my first setup at 17 psi.. It's amazing what you can get out of a full build over just thrown together, half-assed stuff. I've said it before; yes, what you did was "working", it was in no way efficient. Sorry, man.

2001GSRSC

Anyways.

There are much better head designs making much less than any port job you could have accomplished at that boost.

i struggle to get double the power at 1 bar. Like most people. If I run 110 whp I/H/E stock , and end 200-220 I am happy. thats right.

What whp did you run 0 boost? 200? Bullshit.

Txdragon

200 on a D with Bolt-ons? Ha! That's a D-series wet dream. They just happen to respond well to a properly built forced induction setup with proper tuning.. As for head design/flow, nothing **needs** to be done on a P08 head below 500hp. What I did with mine was very simple, and because I was bored..

Txdragon

I'm willing to bet that if you add back all the corners you cut, you'd get better results.. Just sayin'...

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I thought everyone was all about cutting corners, going eBay and buying as cheap as possible LOL.

2001GSRSC

How much WHP are you thinking that an intercooler adds to that same 1bar package? 25-35?

Eventually I did add the intercooler. Don't expect another 100whp cause you put the intercooler on!



Version 3 with NOS and water injection...Tial and Precision Turbocharger was more, but the turbo is bigger.

Txdragon

No no no. "Cutting corners" and "going cheap" are 2 totally different approaches. Get that confusion out of your head!
I initially went cheap but did not cut any corners.

AllMtrRex

Are you trolling or using this brand of nitrous? You keep saying NOS lol.

Txdragon

Honestly.. I'm still wondering how you managed 15psi on a map sensor that can only see 11... Again; just sayin...

Look man.. We could go at it all day. I've given props that you've done some mad scientist **** here and it worked fair. You've gotten some weak results from the least amount of effort, but you got results.. Take that and run with it. I'll agree to disagree that a setup like this should be recommended for anyone looking for reliable.

2001GSRSC

Many solutions , use a GM MAP. Skunk2, ebay 4 bar,etc. with Laptop tuning , type in the MAP specs, and use it.

Double the power in a 5 speed Honda for less than $350. It is awesome. Best cars in the world.

Txdragon

Lemme see if I got this right... So you used the stock map, but programmed the voltage offsets of say, any other map sensor?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Well yes and no but both kind of translate to the same LOL. There are people who don't use intercoolers if they run alcohol because on alcohol you keep cool. My buddy never used a blow off valve on his race car and it worked just fine, ran 8.2's in the quarter mile.

To me if you are building a motor to handle 4 times the power it's meant for and decide to use cheap pistons, rods, because someone wants to be cheap that is the same as cutting corners to me, why? Because most know what is truly needed to be reliable and safe but opt to go cut corners thinking the cheap parts should work.

That's just me though, like I said I don't really care what approach someone wants to take honestly.

2001GSRSC

AZ Civic , correct the BOV is technically not needed either.

TX dragon, the software can except data from many different MAP sensors. You will need the data for the specific MAP its not universal. Advanced Boost Tools + in Crome pluggin.

At first I used a GM external MAP sensor that was Tee'd in, then a Skunk2 that installs at the original location on the TB.

Txdragon

The basic turbo kit consists of; manifold, turbo and plumbing, bov, wastegate, intercooler, piping.. Cheap is purchasing an Ebay kit or Ebay parts. Cutting corners is eliminating one or more of those items.. we're talking cutting quality vs eliminating items entirely.

I ran no BOV on my first turbo car.. Was an '89 Probe GT. Originally a recirc valve, I got an HKS SQV for it but while waiting for the adapter to arrive, just left it blocked off. The surge sounded mean lol. Given that your buddy was also in a track car, no bov would be less forgiving than on a DD street mobile.
I know that an intercooler isn't **necessary** IF appropriate measures are taken to keep those temps down. And that wasn't discovered by skippy here until a later version and STILL not making much progress in the **success** department. The greatest success so far is the thing not blowing to pieces by now. I'll be more than happy to test out the fact that turbo he's using on any REAL setup would push out twice what he's been able to see up til now..

Txdragon

I realize this, I use Neptune. I've tuned my own setups before. I can't say much about how a burned tune works but, I can tell you right now on a real time system, that a stock map sensor will not read properly, nor work properly, with another sensor's settings. Been there, done that.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Like I said each person has their own way of thinking and setups vary big time. As people work their way up the cheap to very expensive parts train you realize very quick why doing things certain ways are a must. I've learned this over time and I try to give advice to help those looking to make reliable power or extreme power LOL.

Txdragon

Another realization I have, brother.. I am ALL FOR outside the box thinking, saving money, being thrifty, etc but, do YOU realize the OP of the thread was looking for 300+ whp in a d16z6, don't ya? They also want to daily it.. What the spendthrift mad scientist F-series dude has done DOES NOT apply to d-series... Safe... Daily driver... Or 300+ whp...