Also they are much stronger and therefore do not stretch after installation and 25 lbs of boost.

 

OOOPSSSSSS.....hehehhehe

I fingered tightened mine and torque them to specs...

well, lately I am seeing a lil oil residue around the head gasket area....could this be the torque was a lil off ?

I am just wondering....

 

What'd you torque to?

On my LS I torqued them to 65 ft-lb.

 

If b16 you should torque to 70 ft-lbs.

 

Look more to the valve cover or vtec selenoid.

 

65 ft-lb...I fingered tightened all of them until they are tight..I am just worry seeing oil residue...

 

Yeah, sure it's not your cam seal?

 

I used some Lok-Tite Red and the 2 nut method to about 15ft-lbs. Before I did this I used the hand tight method. This didn't work, one stud backed out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finger tight never works for me. I like to torque them to 20 lbs with the old double nut trick. It makes for a more consistent install without stressing them.</TD></TR></TABLE> old double nut trick ??

 

Good lord...this post is almost as old as my car.

Double nut = one nut upside down and the other one right-side up. You tighten them against each other to simulate a temporary bolt configuration so that you can use a wrench or socket/ratchet on it.

 

thread is old but i am glad it surfaced back up
good info in here to save

 

the last set i used from arp had the alen head in the top for tighting.

also one of my resent motors (built lsvtec turbo). a customer brought it to me. he wanted the head off. to make sure it had the forged pistons. the guy he bought it off of said it had. as i started to take the nuts off the head. 3 of them were loose. come to find out that those 3 holes had pulled the treads out of the holes.

any ideas as to why this could have happend. the only thing i can think of was that some one at some time had used ls head bolts in this motor,

 

How many people use ball bearings to prevent the threads from bottoming out before the stud does?

 

The ball bearing trick, I've done that! We are getting some studs made with dog points that do the same thing. Here are some extremely important things to remember:

1. If a manufacturer calls for a certain TQ with a certain lube, USE THE CORRECT LUBE!!!
2. The TQ limit is usually only 75% of the yield limit for that stud. This is so you do not over TQ the stud.
3. Once a stud has been stretched by over TQ, then it is now junk. Think of it like paper, once it is ripped, it will never be the same.
4. Always TQ in the correct sequence. This will allow the pressures to the stud to be properly distributed along the correct axis' without getting everything out of shape!

If you know these four things, then you should have no problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by filetofit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do use moly grease
Do get the right size studs, if you have an LS/Vtec you need the b18C studs
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a B18C head. I have a B16 Head LS/VTEC, and I used B16 ARP headstuds. Notice they are called headstuds?

It all depends on what head you use. And my installer never puts the moly lube on the block threads, makes it easier for them to back out.

Do like Earl said. 15-20 lbs on the block thread, then moly-lube the top threads and nuts, then torque to spec. Then re-check them after ~150 miles and re-torque if necessary.

 

Actually Earl told me he likes to use 5-10 ft/lbs when torquing them into the block. The figures he posted earlier in this thread were from 2 years ago.

Where do I get ball bearings anyways? I checked out 5 hardware and automotive stores and nobody carries them.

 

Check out McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ for the ball bearings. Type in " steel ***** " ( sounds like a porno ) and you should get a few pages of different sizes to choose from.

 

why not just use the AEBS ones isnt it the same concept as the ball bearings?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finger tight never works for me. I like to torque them to 20 lbs with the old double nut trick. It makes for a more consistent install without stressing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
bingo. but i did mine to 10 lbs. then final torqueing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turboteggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you have a B18C head. I have a B16 Head LS/VTEC, and I used B16 ARP headstuds. Notice they are called headstuds? </TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong, b18(b16b also) block with vtec, reguardless of head (b18c or b16), uses b18 VTEC studs

only use the b16a studs when u are working with a b16a block, reguardless of head

 

The thread of the three holes for my head studs appeared to be torn out when we took the head off my built gsr block. I did use ARPs and they were hand tightened in. Now I'm reluctant to use this brand again.

Has anyone know of any high HP motors that run on OEM head bolts?

 

i have been usig ARPs for a while now in many motors with no probs...and i have hand tightend and ive torqued..and never had a problem either way..im gonna try the AEBS ones this time..

 

Anyone 100% positive on what the final torque spec is on the ARP head stud??


My method is:

double nut method putting studs into block... finger tight, then torque to 10ft-lbs... slap head on, and torque in sequence 22ft-lbs first time around, then the final (??????)..

Chiltons manual says 96+ OEM B18C5 head studs are torqued to 63ft-lbs, is this the same with the ARP's?

 

u can torque them to 63 but i would to at least 70..arp recomends 78-80 ft lbs are u using moly lube or oil..?

 

Dont use the ball bearing trick! I thought it was a clever idea. I attempted it and the first one I dropped in stopped at the top thread bc it was too big. I didnt realize it and dropped the stud on top of the BB, lodging it in the hole. Needless to say it was a very shocking experience. Tipping the block upside down did not remove it. We tried magnets, picks, suction, we eventually got it after an hour by gluing a nail head to it with some epoxy. It was real funny almost ruining a freshly sleeved and built GSR block worth nearly 2 grand. lol

5/16" BB is the right size, 3/8" is not

I said fug it, and I just made them all hand tight with an allen wrench. No problems so far.