Tippyman

I installed some ARP headstuds today.

1) They came with washers and nuts. I assume I put the washer over the stud, then the nut, then torque it down?

2) Also, Do I torque themall down to 22 ft lbs first, then 65? I've never torqued anything down before, so I need help.

Doing all of this tomorrow. Thanx for your help!
-Tippyman.

bb_one

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1) They came with washers and nuts. I assume I put the washer over the stud, then the nut, then torque it down?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2) Also, Do I torque themall down to 22 ft lbs first, then 65? I've never torqued anything down before, so I need help.

Doing all of this tomorrow. Thanx for your help!
-Tippyman.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also yes, follow the torque process specified on the spec sheet with your head studs, they will tell you what your final troue value would be as well. I prefer a 3 step torque process rather then 2 (22, 50, 70). Also remember to tighten it down in the crisscross pattern.

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

Weird, I did my ARP's today as well.

I used the molylube, tightened the studs into the block a hair under 10 ft/lbs. Copper sprayed the new OEM gasket, put the head back on, washers and molylubed the inside of the nuts, then torqued.

I did a 2-step torquing, first was 25 ft/lb, followed by 70 ft/lb in the sequence in the Hayne's. After reseraching a lot regarding the torque process for the studs, it seems all that is needed is a 2-step process, as more smaller steps put more stress on the threads. Also, OEM calls for only a 2-step process.

mike93eh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1) They came with washers and nuts. I assume I put the washer over the stud, then the nut, then torque it down?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i could be wrong but i think the nut goes on first and then the washer ont op of the nut..

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i could be wrong but i think the nut goes on first and then the washer ont op of the nut.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

nope

mike93eh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope </TD></TR></TABLE>

really?

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

think of what you're saying, how could that physically work?

mike93eh2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">think of what you're saying, how could that physically work? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i was making fun of the op's question lol. you should be asking him to think of whast he was saying

quik sol

i stepped mine up 4 times...20-35-55-70

HamiltonRex

with the supplied lube i tq 78ft/lbs.

DragWerks

^^ correct... use generous amounts of lube on the washers, nuts and threads. I always do steps of 20 (20-40-60-78-78). don't forget to start from the middle studs and work your way out...

Attoir

Oh yeah? Well I always do steps of .5 ft/lbs when I'm installing my head studs.

.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, etc.

Takes a while, but it works, so my way is the only right way! Just FYI. :-P

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

lmfao