my build thread....http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188931

people say the block has to be line honed for arp main studs.
the engine ran great when it was stock, i dont understand why this has to be done.
im shooting for 400-450 hp goal.
i did not think the stock main bolts would hold that.

 

Stock mainbolts will be fine for that power level.

You have to line hone the block if you put ARP's in it because of the higher torque required by the ARP's vs OEM bolts.

Line honing a Honda block is not the easiest thing in the world, you're better off just using stock stuff and skipping the line hone.

 

thanks any other chime in's?
or build threads that will show stock main bolts will hold that much and how long it will last?

 

I am sure there are dozens of people at 800+hp and 10000+ rpm on OEM Main Bolts, I know I have them and every other person I know uses OEM.

 

my "race" motor is using a stock gsr main girdle and oem main bolts. ~800-850hp

 

my engine uses arp mains, 2 or 3 years now and they are perfectly fine never line honed a thing.

 

Same here, at 900+.

DO NOT use studs w/o a proper line hone.

 

oh well.

don't they line hone a block when they sleeve them at GE?

Ive never had abnormal wear at all.

 

No they do not...

The threads where the nuts go on arp main studs are more narrow than the oem threads. Therfore they will clamp with much more force on the main caps when tourqed down to oem spec.

That is why you need a line bore/hone if you go with aftermarket mainstuds.

 

is this suppose to make the main cap bow in or something? Just doesnt make sense to me that it would sense all you are doing is putting more clamping force on the outside of the cap.

All i know is i havn't seen anything or had any problems.

 

My B16 ran fine on stock main studs at 400+ WHP, but when we pulled it apart after I melted the pistons we saw where the mains had been moving a little, the bottom of the main caps had blackened the block. I had it reassembled with the ARP studs and it was fine after that. It was recommended to get a line bore/hone, so I had that done. It is critical to find someone with the right equipment to line bore/hone a Honda block, as most machines are not appropriate for aluminum blocks with steel caps (I think the bore/hone has to be positively located, and most are floating), but I had RLZ take care of that and it came out fine. The motor is still running last I heard, and I sold it years ago.

 

I did tourque the arp ones according to ARP.. I think it was 115NM.. That along with the finer threads makes the force to the maincaps ALOT higher. I had less than 0 clearance at the A messurment. That is from the point closest to the piston to the point the furtherst from the piston. Then I did tourque to factory spec but the clearance was nearly unchanged.. The maincaps did distort. I tourqued the ARP studs to 100NM and did a linebore and the engine runs strong sence that.

I think the stock tourque is 78 or 85 NM if I remember correctly.

 

What about the golden eagle main studs..Don't they just use stock torque specs? If you used the ge main studs then would you still need to line hone the block?

 

What about the golden eagle main studs..Don't they just use stock torque specs? If you used the ge main studs then would you still need to line hone the block?

 

If they use the sampe type of threads in both ends of the stud they will work fine with stock spec without a line bore but I do not think they do. If so they are putting more force to the mains anyway so you still need a linebore/hone.

 

Looking at the installation instructions, the ARP studs say to line hone the mains, and the GE studs don't say anything about it and say to use OEM torque values, so maybe the GE studs don't require a line hone. You could always try them and have a machinist check the main journals with a good micrometer.

 

i dont know what to do i just got it back from the machine shop and dont want to send it off again.
but i guess ill have too, i dont want to take the chance with stock LS bolts on all that power.

 

they will hold 600 no problem, even more than that. Just USE STOCK!!

 

im using arp mains with stock tq. spec. been running for a year now and bearing look good.. just check bearings a month ago.

 

oem ftw ... just wasting money going with aftermarket main studs

 

y is that? iosn't arp the best quality bolts in the industry ? so y would it be better than oem. cuz those honda engines arn't ment to have a highorsepower engine so how would oem be better?

 

oem are better in the fact that
1) they hold up to some of the highest hp honda's there are
2) no need for a line hone (or better yet finding someone good enough to do it on a B series
3) if it is not broke, do not fix it

arp are better because:
1) you can tell your friends your motor has arp main studs

 

o, im in my way to start my first turbo/nitrous build, i was just asking u sound more experienced i'll take ur word for iit...