Which end goes in the block? the one with the lump on the end of the threads? I can't seem to finger tighten them, can I held it out with a whrench?

 

Use 2 nuts to tighten it. The longer end goes to the block

 

Put two nuts on the end and tighten the two nuts together till they are kinda locked together. Then take a socket and torque wrench and put them on the outter nut and torque them down.

 

I would of checked here first. Know what you are buying.
There are such things as stud installers too. They <ball bearings> grip the outside of the stud allowing you to turn it. The two nut thing works but sometimes the nuts get stuck together. Happened to me on my turbo manifold head stud. Luckly I was able to unfree the nuts and still use the stud.



[Modified by PressurizedSi, 5:21 AM 7/30/2002]

 

so I don't HAVE to hand tightne them? It says so in the instructions. I also used ARP moly lube on bith ends instead of ARP thread sealer

 

i hand tightend mine, at first i tried the two nut idea and it took me a half hour to get them apart, i just made sure i hand-tightened the hell out of them.

 

Only one end will actually thread into the block -- the threading is different...

And I put mine in hand tight like the instructions said... torqued to 65 ft-lb.

 

If you hand tighten you MUST make sure you cannot tighten it anymore. Mine backed out on me the first time I hand tightened.

The second time I used Loc-Tite Red no ARP lube and two-nut torqued to 15ft. lbs. This held up fine. Good luck.

 

when i spoke with al nichols out at ARP, he gave me a list of installation instructions for the h23a bolts:

Lube threads on studs
Moly lube bottom of nuts and washer
when installing bolts, put one washer in upside down, and the other one regular, then this is how you screw them in
1/2->3/4 torque then back off then torque again to 77ft/lbs

 

by the way, ill have the h23a measurements a little later tonight.

 

Thanks man...I'm waiting for those measurements so I can get some for my h23a1