Which headstud would you recommend? (ARP or AEBS). Tell me about yours

 

ARP's have proven themselves time and time agian.

 

I THINK ARP MAKES THEM FOR AEBS NOT SURE
ITS JUST NADE TO AEBS SPEC
i USED THEM ALL THE TIME

 

i would say it about the same except the aebs have that dimple on the end so it would pull the head to the block or something like that. There is a thread about this. And the AEBS one has the hex slot on top for easier install.

 

MY AEBS head studs stretched resulting in lifting the head on the dyno. Going ARP. Just my first hand experience

OH, and for all those out there wondering, Yes, I followed the installation instruction provided by AEBS to the t.

 

ARP like no other

 

arp here

 

arp here

 

I'm going to stick with ARP for the simple reason they are proven. Not to mention they are not expensive and have a set for almost every application.

 

ARP all the way.

http://www.importparts.com/sho...id=67

 

Anyone know where I can find them for an H23?

 

The ARP's have to be re-torqued after about 10 heat cycles (starts) where as the AEBS studs say they do not need re-torqued.

A friend of mine Mikes01GSR is makin over 500hp on his AEBS studs and hasn't had a problem yet.

 

I have AEBS and they've worked great.

 

600+whp on AEBS never had a problem.

 

I used arp before, but got the AEBS for my new motor. I hope they work out ok...

 

I had ARP, but when we removed them most of them bent and were unusable. I replaced them with AEBS, the car isn't done yet so I don't know how they'll work. Larry

 

aebs all day

sold tons, used many and both my blocks will run aebs..


better then arp bar none

 

price?

 

I payed $116 Dynamic Autosports.

 

AEBS here. dont have to retorque these things after 1000 miles like ARP studs. my head has never lifted once and i have beatin on it so far. AEBS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aebs all day

sold tons, used many and both my blocks will run aebs..


better then arp bar none</TD></TR></TABLE>

why do you think AEBS is better then ARP? This thread could be 50 pages long of people saying "i use this or that" but nobody has said why one is better then the other.

liam

 

ARP here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why do you think AEBS is better then ARP? This thread could be 50 pages long of people saying "i use this or that" but nobody has said why one is better then the other.

liam</TD></TR></TABLE>

i personalyl liek the dimples on the AEBS studs so the threads dotn bottom out when you tighten them where as teh ARP studs teh threads go all teh way to the bottom of the stud and if you accidently over tighten them could possibly forsee a little problem. but then again it all comes down to installer and how it was done.

also i liek how u dont have to retighten AEBS studs after 1000 miles. i mean cmoe on removing teh cams to retighten on a b series is a pain and with ARPs u have to do that. i dunno just my opinion thats all

 

i never needed to retighten my ARP's. never had a prob yet. and my car is strong as hell

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LostSolVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ARP's have to be re-torqued after about 10 heat cycles (starts) where as the AEBS studs say they do not need re-torqued.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This retorque only occurs on new studs so incase you have to remove the head, this retorque doesn't need to happen again.

Gotta love a SOHC. Retorque takes 30 minutes.