HT members, does this diagram look correct to install?? If not, how would you reroute or edit this diagram picture. I have a golden eagle vaccum source, so probably wouldn't need to spice all that hoses. If any of you HT members had a previous AVCR install before, confirm this with me to see if it's correct.

 

"Why are you using Apexi anything on a turbo'd engine?" is my question.

 

probably cuz the avcr is one of the best electronic boost controllers out there....why wouldn't he use a apexi product? boost by gear FTW!!


i installed my avcr many years ago so i have no idea about the wiring but it looks like you have allot of "t's" and splices in the vacuum lines which is just asking for trouble...

 

Because that AVC-R is one of the best pieces of equipment to use. If one is man enough to take the time to know how to use it.

Apex'i is still a great company, contrary to young people's belief.

 

Here's the PDF on the AVC-R
http://www.fd3s.net/avc-r_manual.pdf


Some older instructions I had.

STEP 1) Install the Solenoid

The solenoid controls the air pressure provided to the precontrol and wastegate actuators, thus allowing user control of boost. If you blow through the solenoid (NO or COM port) you will feel a little resistance, but air will flow. If air doesn't flow there is probably a problem. (So loss of power to the solenoid will result in low boost, not max boost...)

Remove air box and intake piping so that you can access the precontrol and WG actuators (look almost straight down).
Remove both of the hoses going from the manifold to Precontrol & WG actuators - hoses are held on by expandable metal clips
Following the directions, use the supplied plastic 'T's and hoses, and 'T' the manifold ports to the NO port on solenoid.
'T' the Precontrol & WG actuator ports to the COM port on solenoid.
Mount the solenoid - use the rubber pad. Mine is mounted on the fender wall near the ABS unit.




STEP 2) Disconnect factory solenoids

This MUST be done, otherwise boost cannot be controlled.

There are two ports each on the wastegate & precontrol actuators. The top port from each is running to the solenoid (step above), the second port is at the bottom and to the right... you cant see it, but it's easy to feel.
Disconnect bottom ports on each
Plug both these ports (i.e. rubber stopper and tie wrap)
Plug both hoses that were connected to the ports




STEP 3) Install pressure sensor

Pressure sensor monitors manifold pressure to provide 'closed-loop' boost control.

Find a hose on intake manifold and 'T' it to the pressure sensor.
Use the supplied air filter and mount the sensor so the hose connector points downward.
On my car there were two threaded holes on the fender-wall, close to the firewall, next to the ABS. The pressure sensor mounted there PERFECTLY (supply your own machine screws).




STEP 4) Wiring harness

Start with harness inside the car and run the solenoid and pressure sensor wires into the engine compartment.
You do not need to cut the wires, the wire 'ends' can be removed from the plastic connector using a small screwdriver (pop out plastic insert.)
Hole in firewall behind/under ABS and behind glove-box works well.
Follow the supplied FD ECU wiring diagram (Z3-b) and spice into required ECU wires. I used 'RPM' wiring, not 'injector duty' wiring.
Attach all sensor and head-unit connectors




STEP 5) Sensor Check

Put everything back together (at least enough to turn ignition on).
Turn ignition on (don't need to start the car yet)
AVC-R logo will scroll across the screen
Go to 'Etc.' section, 'Sensor chk'
My values:

Boost: 1.513V
Throttle: 0.634V (no throttle) / 4.218V (full throttle)
SCSW: OFF

If your values are close, the unit and sensors are working.
Put everything back together - enough to drive car. Complete system checkout is in next section.




TUNING:

Basic tuning will take a few hours, but fine tuning all the parameter will take a while. The tuning instructions in the manual leave a lot to be desired... the translation is fairly poor. Read and re-read this section, about the third time you read it, it does start making sense. And if it seems that a word is missing in a sentence... it IS! I guess the translator didnt know the English word. So I attempt to explain what each of the parameters does along with how to set it.

Also, the boost is displayed in Kg/cm^2... the conversion to PSI is 14.22:1 NOT 14.5 or 14.7 or anything else.

STEP 1) System parameter setup - All in 'Etc.' menu

Car Select:

Cyl=4 (# of rotors * 2)
Spd=4
Thr=Arrow pointing up

Sensor Sel:

Relative1 (leave as default)

 

Noted.

 

Do you think it be okay to run the AVCR pressure sensor to my golden eagle vacuum source?

 

Should be ok

 

Thanks Shodan

 

While I love Apex'i can you explain how the AVC-R is so great, or great on a a FI motor?

 

Um. an FI motor uses boost. An AVC-R is a gear-based boost controller that has secondary "scramble" to time for several seconds for a higher rate of boost (for circuit racing) in a very nice integrated package.

When you say for an FI motor, I hope you're not confusing this with a V-AFC.. that's a VTEC controller, not a boost controller. Just want you to be sure you're clear.

Apex'i electronics go WAY beyond their VTEC controllers and timers. They have a wonderful array of products. Just not cheap ones.

 

Sorry didn't mean to put the word FI in there, but when I hear of Apex'i my mind thinks about their VTEC controller. Its like Kleenex and tissue :-)

I would assume that if you are going to go with an AVCR it should be on a built motor correct? In most cases those with D and B motors turbo charge them in stock form for the max output before the rods break, or other engine damage occurs. It seems like this would push the motor to or beyond that point, no?

 

Hehe. its like any other boost controller, my friend. Whether it is "built" or not has nothing to do with its ability for someone to control boost with it. I mean, it all depends upon the setup and what's used. There's no more criteria to use it than any other boost controller on the market.

Some want the ability to control it from the car without everything else tied into the ECU and such. It's not that "crazy" of a phenomenon.. hehe.

 

Shodan, thats what I wanted to know, and that is if it is like all other inside cabin boost controllers. I personally do not run one, but always interested in reading about them.

 

actually it has its own features over being in-cabin. The best benefit that I like from it is the fact that 1) its brain actually "learns' the pattern of boost that you're making to prevent spiking. 2) It has a "gain" feature like the Profec B solenoid, in which it can actually increase boost response. That alone made it more worthwhile than the AEM "truboost" that is offered that goes strictly off of duty cycle.

 

I prefer to run a 3-4 port solenoid like the hondata boost solenoid and control it with my ecu. It's actually cheaper then buying a AVCR and most racers are running the boost solenoids

 

Again. these modules were designed for on-the-fly control for different circuits and tracks involving the street and road racing, not some drag strip. The solenoids used with these systems don't need multiple ports to make adjustments or multiple settings. These solenoids were ahead of any 3-4 port solenoids 10 years ago; and have the boost by gear (and can go based on RPM) all included in one little box. I still have yet to see a 3-4 port solenoid actuate well enough to allow enough "gain" to control how the turbo actually will "spool", and not just based on duty cycle.

Again, to each his own, but for one that doesn't want to worry about some ECU or laptop interface, this is a great way to go..

 

Shodan I get what your saying, in my opinion though at the $500 cost I would probably recommend this for certain setups over other devices or a manual controller.

 

You should know me by now. Though cost is relevant, I rarely go by "bang for the buck" in my opinions of some of these items, especially for a controller like this that can do all it does.. This sport is expensive, and if you want it a certain way, you pay to play, either way... this controller isn't for everyone, that's why we have the choices we do.

I'm not trying to sound snobish or as though I'm rich by any means, but to those that race, its all expensive. so you suck it up and get over it.. Too expensive? find another hobby, ya know?

 

I understand what your saying as far as being easier. I understand to some pulling out a laptop and making changes is a pain. But in my opinion I like all the things you can do with a 60-80 dollar solenoid. Like fast spool, being able to run 4-5x wastegate spring pressure, boost by gear, boost by rpm, boost by mph (depending on tuning program). It's great. I personally wouldn't waste the money in a AVCR but I guess it's preference

 

Yes. its preference, considering AVC-R can do those same things, (and did it 10 years ago). But you can't flip a laptop up or change things on the fly in between sessions in circuit racing. That's what some people need, so they'll be glad to pay it.. (as would I) That's what it was originally designed for.

 

The AVCR is very convenient to use.. The display allows you to monitor a few vitals, and a basic graph feature lets you know how your curve looks like on the road.

The closed loop function compensates well for weather changes, and probably better than any Hondata/Neptune/ECTune/AEM EMS/Standalones out there.

On a drag car, you are always accelerating under one specific condition, so the AVCR won't make much economical sense. Any boost solenoid setup would do the job.

For a daily driven street car, time attack or circuit car, the 3-boost modes that can be changed on the fly + scramble boost makes up well for the price.

I have multiple AVCR's on my own cars, and there is a reason for that

 

I love mine, once you get to know it, it becomes your best friend.