just wondering if i should dyno before i really put some miles on. I have about 50 miles on my new block so far but the car is running like **** and i really want to get it tuned. The block has je pistons, eagle rods, rs motorworks sleeves. Head is stock with just all new seals and fresh valve job.
Is there any other way to break a motor in without driving it, or does the motor need load to have everything set properly?

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

I second that.

 

got me convinced. who likes breaking in for 1k miles anyway I wonder if this applies to boosted engines as well???

 

damn that sounds crazy... id need to hear from someone i know and trust first before i tried that... damn...

can anyone vouch for this break in method?


Modified by bretx0r at 6:11 AM 5/18/2003

 

well, 1 customer said dyno his car immediately after it was brand new built by us before.

Only 1.

And that motor ran great, and still runs great with no blowby or problems thousands and thousands of miles later.

We use high tension rings, and they are very high quality, that might have had everything to do with it.

Jeff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.8T_EG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

Someone told me that once but I didn't want to believe, but with the good explaination... it's change everything

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=487002

 

i had about 100miles on mine when i hit the dyno

 

we broke my car in on the dyno. It was built and thrown on the dyno and taken home that night. THe car has run great since then. NO problems yet, knock on wood.

 

thanks for the replies guys, i think i am gonna just get it tuned then

 

I dyno'd my car with less than 50 miles on the motor and no problems yet. It doesnt burn a drop of oil either!

 

Broken in on the dyno.

 

This idea seems freakishly scary to me. Can you guys that said you broke your motors in on the dyno, post up your setups?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drjondurst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This idea seems freakishly scary to me. Can you guys that said you broke your motors in on the dyno, post up your setups?</TD></TR></TABLE>
GSRev's times:
best 1320: 10.88 sec
best mph: 132.5 mph

so you know they arent just *****-footing around...
Im totally convinced that this is the way to go. Its common sense actually. In the old days, there used to be worries about tight engine components. Now, those worries are gone, and about the only thing that it still "old" is ring seating. Get that out of the way ASAP while there is still hatching on the cylinder walls, and whoalah! Probably close to 0% leakdown...

 

gsr, GE sleeved, crower rods, arias pistons, T4 60-1, stock head, FMU fuel setup(back then). 10psi made 330whp.

 

Very interesting concept and great explanations. Anyone else use this method to break in their motor?

 

I babied the hell out of my motor until about 350mi then pulled it to v-tec, then @ 500mi or so took it to red line

 

this is totally against everything i was taught, WOW , can this really be true? i would love to hear fromt he big guy son here to see what they say , i wondered about race car motor break in , but i thougth they dide engine dyno and ran it softly for the miles to gbreak em in

 

My dad told me years ago break it how you plan to drive it. So basically forget you ever rebuilt the motor. Just drive it like its been driven a million times before.

 

Make sure the engine is warm, n' go. I vouch for this style breakin on two motors running strong so far.

 

I actually had 35 miles on this motor when I put it on the dyno. . If your car is driving like crap though, I don't see how a dyno is going to help you unless you mean that it drives like crap under boost or WOT. Drivability tune is a completely different animal as opposed to WOT. Alot harder imho.