Another B18B vs B16A
KEEP THIS IN MIND:
1) FOR STREET RACES
2) I WANT TO BE ABLE TO SMOKE MUSTANG COBRA'S (SVT)
3) IM NOT THE RICHEST GUY IN THE WORLD
Everyone says B18B is better for street and all that, but then B16 people
say that they got more room to stay in boost...and all that other good stuff.
What do yall think will be better for boost keeping the things above i mentioned
in mind. AND PLEASE TELL ME WHY EACH ENGINE IS BETTER FOR BOOST
AND RACING ON THE STREET AND WHY YOU PREFER IT OVER THE OTHER.
THANKS
1) FOR STREET RACES
2) I WANT TO BE ABLE TO SMOKE MUSTANG COBRA'S (SVT)
3) IM NOT THE RICHEST GUY IN THE WORLD
Everyone says B18B is better for street and all that, but then B16 people
say that they got more room to stay in boost...and all that other good stuff.
What do yall think will be better for boost keeping the things above i mentioned
in mind. AND PLEASE TELL ME WHY EACH ENGINE IS BETTER FOR BOOST
AND RACING ON THE STREET AND WHY YOU PREFER IT OVER THE OTHER.
THANKS
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It's all relative. Depending on what you like. This has been gone over a few times, but it's always good to get fresh perspective on the issues every once in a while.
Personally I like the B18A/B the added toque of the 1.8L, and the lower r/s ratio makes the engine pull around town better, no need to spool it up inorder move about with any amount of quickness. Just make regular 3000~4000 shifting and you'll be zipping right along. Put your foot into it and hang on for dear life. B18A/B have a lower C/R stock, that is a bit more forgiving where tuning comes in to play. All tuning/aspects being the same you won't be as likely to detonate/ping on an LS engine over a B16. Tho it's all in the tuning......LS have been run with 16~20 PSI on stock internals. Daily driving @ 10~12 psi is not at all uncommon for these engines. My car runs 10PSI everywhere I go. I'd turn it up higher, but i'd need a 3bar MAP sensor to read the boost right......and i'm lazy. Most LS engines can be turned into monsters with just 10 PSI of F/I. The biggest flaw when it comes to LS engine and F/I is the flow of the head, the VE(volumetric effiecentcy) of LS engines is a good biut lower than their VTEC counterparts.....However, usually all then is required to fix this is a nice port job. A set of decent breathing cams wouldn't hurt either.
Downside being that, the LS has a short rev-limt when compared to most of it's B-series brethern. This is a downfall when it comes to turbo b/c most "kits" use the same turbo for the LS and GS-R platforms. These kits usually will hit full boost around 4K. This isn't a porblem on a VTEC engine that has an 8K+ rev-limit. On an LS however this only leaves 3K worth of useable power band.
B16's tho I do not like them, do have thier advatages. A few points: One B16's have an extremely favorable R/S ratio, both for N/A of F/I. The high r/s ratio allows the B16 to rev high and hard without putting undue stresses on the sidewalls one the cylinders and on the rods. Next, the increased compression. Tho the higher compression limits the amount of overall boost that can be run, it does produce better power and helps to spool the turbo faster than a lower compression engine would. Finally VTEC. Some people knock VTEC for being prone to "blown by". Where as the valve over lap(good for N/A, bad for F/I), allows some boost to escape the cylinders. However this can be tuned out with a set of cam gears, and the more agressive VTEC cams profile allows for more air to forced into the engine, than would be possible on a non-VTEC engine.....but in the end it's still a B16, with no torque. My mini-me D16 puts out the same or more torque than a B16 does.
HTH
~steven
[Modified by Speed PHreak, 5:54 PM 6/13/2002]
Personally I like the B18A/B the added toque of the 1.8L, and the lower r/s ratio makes the engine pull around town better, no need to spool it up inorder move about with any amount of quickness. Just make regular 3000~4000 shifting and you'll be zipping right along. Put your foot into it and hang on for dear life. B18A/B have a lower C/R stock, that is a bit more forgiving where tuning comes in to play. All tuning/aspects being the same you won't be as likely to detonate/ping on an LS engine over a B16. Tho it's all in the tuning......LS have been run with 16~20 PSI on stock internals. Daily driving @ 10~12 psi is not at all uncommon for these engines. My car runs 10PSI everywhere I go. I'd turn it up higher, but i'd need a 3bar MAP sensor to read the boost right......and i'm lazy. Most LS engines can be turned into monsters with just 10 PSI of F/I. The biggest flaw when it comes to LS engine and F/I is the flow of the head, the VE(volumetric effiecentcy) of LS engines is a good biut lower than their VTEC counterparts.....However, usually all then is required to fix this is a nice port job. A set of decent breathing cams wouldn't hurt either.
Downside being that, the LS has a short rev-limt when compared to most of it's B-series brethern. This is a downfall when it comes to turbo b/c most "kits" use the same turbo for the LS and GS-R platforms. These kits usually will hit full boost around 4K. This isn't a porblem on a VTEC engine that has an 8K+ rev-limit. On an LS however this only leaves 3K worth of useable power band.
B16's tho I do not like them, do have thier advatages. A few points: One B16's have an extremely favorable R/S ratio, both for N/A of F/I. The high r/s ratio allows the B16 to rev high and hard without putting undue stresses on the sidewalls one the cylinders and on the rods. Next, the increased compression. Tho the higher compression limits the amount of overall boost that can be run, it does produce better power and helps to spool the turbo faster than a lower compression engine would. Finally VTEC. Some people knock VTEC for being prone to "blown by". Where as the valve over lap(good for N/A, bad for F/I), allows some boost to escape the cylinders. However this can be tuned out with a set of cam gears, and the more agressive VTEC cams profile allows for more air to forced into the engine, than would be possible on a non-VTEC engine.....but in the end it's still a B16, with no torque. My mini-me D16 puts out the same or more torque than a B16 does.
HTH
~steven
[Modified by Speed PHreak, 5:54 PM 6/13/2002]
but with the right B16 tranny, the b16 can reach it's strongest torque and HP range quicker and stay there longer than with a GSR or LS tranny...this can help negate the absence of low-end torque...with the B16 tranny, u hardly ever (other than coming off idle) drop lower than about 3,000 RPM...at freeway speeds ur at about 4,000-4,500 RPM...and the engine was built by the factory to handle these RPMS...
just something to think about...
just something to think about...
Agreed. But i'm not talking about just off idle torque. I'm talking about the torque curve as a whole. The LS engine has a different torque curve as opposed to the B16. Where the LS pulls effortlessly in te lower RPMs an B16 is still it's daily commuter/gas saver primary lobes. LS's make peak torque at 5400, B16's make it 1000 RPM's higher. The very design and nature of the B16 requires that you rev it up to make power. Take away VTEC from a B16 and what do you have? Basically a befeed up ZC(bad comparisoin, I know) The short-*** B16 gears do help tho. The B16 has to stay at 4000-4500+ on higway cruising(just on the edge of VTEC), otherwise climbing hills/acceleration would require a downshift, or just plain lugging the engine until it crawls into it's power band.
<---- Who has had the unpleasant experience of putting a B16 tranny on an LS engine.
<---- Who has had the unpleasant experience of putting a B16 tranny on an LS engine.
speed phreak, good info.
but the b18a/b would have a higher r/s ratio and the b16 would have a lower r/s ratio.
to solve the problem, a turbo can easily be custom ordered so the redline isn't a factor. most people believe bigger is always better, but for street applications that's not the case.
also, since you're on a budget, b18a/b longblocks can be had for dirt cheap. it's not uncommon to pick these puppies up for $500. this solves the problem of down time. if you blow the motor, you can easily drop in a new b18 motor.
the cost of replacement parts are much, much cheaper with a non-vtec motor then say a b16.
but the b18a/b would have a higher r/s ratio and the b16 would have a lower r/s ratio.
to solve the problem, a turbo can easily be custom ordered so the redline isn't a factor. most people believe bigger is always better, but for street applications that's not the case.
also, since you're on a budget, b18a/b longblocks can be had for dirt cheap. it's not uncommon to pick these puppies up for $500. this solves the problem of down time. if you blow the motor, you can easily drop in a new b18 motor.
the cost of replacement parts are much, much cheaper with a non-vtec motor then say a b16.
If you are just planning on boosting the stock motor you can usually find a "35,000 or under" JDM B16 but I never see low mileage LS's. The LS trans will probably reduce wheelspin a little and has longer gears for the turbo but other than that they are both good engines for boost.
By the way, a 1st gen B16 longblock runs $475 and a B20 or 2nd gen B16 longblock runs around $900 from jdmhondaparts.com.
By the way, a 1st gen B16 longblock runs $475 and a B20 or 2nd gen B16 longblock runs around $900 from jdmhondaparts.com.
My friend and i are both boosting our cars this summer. His happens to be a 94 LS integra and mine happens to be a 99 Civic Si. B18b and B16a. We both fight about this all the time and we are sick of it. He bought a drag kit and i did my own custom kit. We will see soon who's car/motor makes more power, on the street, track and dyno. Even if there is a clear winner all it takes is a little more boost to overcome the other. We will post info when our cars are done.
Even if there is a clear winner all it takes is a little more boost to overcome the other. We will post info when our cars are done.

Remember that old addage; "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races!"
[Modified by Speed PHreak, 12:14 AM 6/15/2002]
you will most likely make MORE power but..he will have more torque...but in the end...your car will be faster!
Smarter than you
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Too much Torque sucks when your trying to launch. Then you have to baby 1st and 2nd gear hoping it doesn't break loose on ya
street racing is mad tite, yo.
killing little kids =
killing little kids =
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