PrecisionH23a

A while ago, my wire harness going to the altenator touched my manifold causing it to melt. The wires got so hot that the insulation melted causing them to touch one another and fray. I soldered in new wires and added heat shrink to fix the problem.

My question is, can this make an altenator go bad and lead to possible misfiring around 3500rpms on the way up?

I plan on testing the altenator tomorrow, just seeing if any of you guys have heard of similar related problems.

PrecisionH23a

up

PrecisionH23a

Well I replaced the rotor and cap... it cleared the misfire up a bit and I had to go back and tune a bit since it leaned out the fuel tables a bit. Tomorrow I'm going to try changing out the dizzy and alt to see if that fixes it. But like I said, I'm just curious if anyone else ran into this.

I'm still getting a faint misfire though. It seems to get more noticeable once the car is driven for around 20 minutes or more though. I'm guessing it is the distributor.

Any one else have any input? Like I said, it occurs around the 3-4k rpm range.

ngk 3330's gapped to .028 (only running 9psi)
msd digital 6
msd hvc coil
grounds all secured (2 additional 8 gauge grounds added as well)

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

If it gets worse after it heats up and misfires, then its likely the ignitor. When my distributor was going it would misfire in very weird places.

It started out misfiring only when very low rpm (<1k rpm) under high load (50%+ tps), then it moved up to misfire under 2k rpm at high load. And then it started misfiring at idle.

I would start the car and let it idle for 20 mins. When it was cold it was fine, and ss it warmed up it got worse. To the point where it would misfire so bad it would stall itself.

PrecisionH23a

This just in....

The altenator's stater was not working. Swapped out altenators and still a stutter, however the motor responded a lot nicer.

I removed the MSD digital 6al and HVC coil and replaced it with a good old OEM one and what do you know.... everything is back to normal