Hey i was wondering if anyone on the broad was running a air to water intercooler on the turbo car? I was looking at the idea because i can get hot around here and plus having a air-water i dont need a FMIC. I like the air-water intercooler made by Laminova. the one Hytech was using for a turbo kit they made.

 

Ok, then why don't you buy it?

 

yeah what is your question?

 

Running a water to air , for the street you still need some way of cooling the water. Either you would run a resevoir with ice water ( good for the track) or you run a heat exchanger ( Small radiater) to cool the water in the system.
Go with an air to air , it will be easier.


Modified by CRVRX at 2:00 PM 5/30/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRVRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> it will be easyier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

awwww c'ommon. If we did things because they were easier, we wouldve kept our cars stock
WAIC's rock..period. I am running one. Mine doubles as water injection too. I will have a 3 way valve that,when open, will circulate water through the condenser in the front. When I close it, it bypasses the condenser, and water comes straight from the resevior through the IC and back. The closed position would be for track only, and with ice. You bypass the condenser, because that will effectively HEAT the ice water, and the IC already does that
So yes, if you have the gall to run WAIC, DO IT!

 

Agree... what fun is "easier"? I'm going to be running water to air as well on my boosted f22. Personally, I think it'll be easier than trying to route intercooler plumbing all through the front of the car.

 

ya, prolly cheaper too...hehe
mandrels are $$$

 

Hey, I'm not about easy. Eveything I do custom stuff that doesn't want to go together.
Just trying to save someone hassle if they don't have resourses to do custom projects.

 

Currently, I am running a Vortech aftercooler along with Revhard turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I will have a 3 way valve that,when open, will circulate water through the condenser in the front. When I close it, it bypasses the condenser, and water comes straight from the resevior through the IC and back. The closed position would be for track only, and with ice. You bypass the condenser, because that will effectively HEAT the ice water, and the IC already does that
!</TD></TR></TABLE> Cool idea and original thinking

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Cool idea and original thinking </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanx, I know you saw my resevior Earl, Im not sure out the others, so here we go:



Golf cart gas tank. Has empty/full guage, since I will be using some water in my future water injection setup. I dont have the 3-way valve yet, either, Im just trying to get the damn car running...

 

Im gonna be running a HUGE heat exchange

 

I just used a nice 4 pass oil cooller for my heat exhanger... even on the dyno with just the big fan, 31 runs in 2 hours with the water never getting over luke warm. I was impressed.

 

luke warm = what degree, intake temp..

how much horsepower are you running?

 

I was looking at Tinker's water cooling setup. I was thinking, can you put refrigerant coils inside the water reservoir and run it offa the cars 12V power? I know that Coleman makes a ice chest that run offa the cigarette lighter outlet on a car. Maybe tear one of these apart and adapt it to the water tank/reservoir.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jordo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">luke warm = what degree, intake temp..

how much horsepower are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Luke warm = less than 90 degrees on a 80 degree day, so JUST over outside weather temps. I dunno intake temps, but the difference from inlet to outlet on the intercooler was staggering. Burning hot from a touch of more than a second or two inlet, to warm to the touch (100ish) piping on the outlet temps. Wish I'd have had the digital Thermometer gun to see exactly how it was doing.

We were able to crank 232 hp at the wheels, 180ft lbs (179.9 ), in a stock bore b16a, 9:1 Endyne slugs with a 46 trim 50 a/r housing t3/4 hybrid at 15 psi blowing out throuw a 2.25" cheated bend VERY NOT PRETTY custom closed loop downpipe. It wasn't a big turbo at all, basically blowing out a straw.

There is something wrong in the setup, either turbo, rings, or valve seals, I suspect turbo seals, the car was blowing smoke BADLY as soon as boost came on, and smokes VERY VERY VERY badly once the run was over, enough to confuse the ECU enough to nearly stall the car.

The new turbo/downpipe/manifold setup should net some nice numbers. (SC34/Inline Pro/Full 3") If it still smokes, the head will be coming off for valve seals, and inspection of the cylinder walls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LiLOtaku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was looking at Tinker's water cooling setup. I was thinking, can you put refrigerant coils inside the water reservoir and run it offa the cars 12V power? I know that Coleman makes a ice chest that run offa the cigarette lighter outlet on a car. Maybe tear one of these apart and adapt it to the water tank/reservoir. </TD></TR></TABLE>

how convenient, my father is an appliance repairman. I will ask him and see what he thinks about it.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tinker219 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how convenient, my father is an appliance repairman. I will ask him and see what he thinks about it.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, if you use the idea, can i get a discount for a Bseries turbo manifold .

 

man you guys cars are gonna weight like 3000lbs, by the time yall are done

 

thn you will be fat like me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jordo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man you guys cars are gonna weight like 3000lbs, by the time yall are done</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tinkers car already looks gutted. If he literally uses the refirgerant coils/pump from a coleman ice chest, it'll only make the car way another 15 lbs. The power gain alone from the refrigerant will easily out weigh the weight gain.

 

ya, but my S.S. intake and exhaust manifolds will make my car pretty piggish Prolly around 2500lbs w/driver.
Its a daily driver, not a race car, so a lil weight aint gonna hurt much.
My next project however, will add ALOT of weight, but will be Very beneficial. Think "RealTime AWD"

 

My car with all the water supply, full interior, stereo, and everything is 2350 without me, with the B series, Turbo, and all.



It's not TOOO bad. And that's with a heavy *** Optima battery in the trunk.

 

to my knowledge, charge coolers can produce bigger power figures than intercoolers, due to the increased heat conductivity of a liquid over air, cooling the charge more efficiently. also they are easier to install when u take into account the size of a decent intercooler, and will probably weigh less! additionally, and more importantly, they reduce charge size(when compared with a typical intercooled setup), therefore reducing lag. just because everyone does it, it doesent mean its the best way!!! it can cost more tho...

 

Actually, water to air intercoolers are very rarely more efficient than a good air/air unless some form of ice water or something is used. The intercooler, weather it be water or air, can only cool to the temperature of the cooling media. Water is more effective than air in cooling, but if the water you have to cool with is 120deg., then you'll never get cooler air than that. The heat from the air will be transferred to the water, so now you have to worry about the efficiency of the heat exchanger as well. You may find a very good heat exchanger which will be quite big and still only be about 80% efficient. Now you end up with warm water and warmer air. On the other hand, with an air to air intercooler you have an unlimited supply of ambient air. I've seen good air to air intercoolers keep air temps very near ambient at high boost levels. I dynoed a car the other day that had a 20x11x3 xs engineering air/air ic. The air temp INSIDE the intake manifold (sensor was in the intake which means the air is actually cooler before the throttle body) was 104 deg. on a 90 deg. day at 24psi. This was on the dyno too, which means that on the street it will be even cooler because of more air flow across the core. Now, with all that being said, water to air is better for a race car where ice water will be used...

Oh, and lag from an air to air will be unnoticable, almost unmeasureable. If you realized how fast the air flowed and how much air an engine in boost uses, then you would understand that the length of the pipes won't make a difference unless they are 25 feet long.