..........

 

With this set up what should my fuel pressure be?

 

Fuel pressure should be set to stock, no higher or lower for most cases. Your car is DEFINATLY being overfueled.

Generally speaking if you have a b series 1.8 you should have your hi and lo throttle fuel map settings at around -38% across the board before you get tuned, and do not boost because you don't REALLY know what kinda fuel your running (and no the cheap a/f gauges tell you squat unless its full red during WOT).

Secondly you do not need an inline fuel pump at all, stock fuel pump is ok for 7psi or less. After that I highly recommend you get a Walbro and AEM fpr (set to stock fuel pressure but using the middle sized orifice (I had misfires randomly until I changed the orifice from small to middle).

If you have any kind of missing link or map limiter, remove it, you don't need those with the afc hack.

This is all assuming you have the afc itself wired right.

Things you will have to live with: Throwing a code 13 for BARO sensor (refer to other afc hack threads about this). Its harmless but annoying.

 

I took out the inline pump and Fmu. I have the stock FP now untill I get a new one. I am running about 7psi. I also have a AEM fpr, I think I have the smaller plug in it. I will try to change like you said. I set the fuel pressure at 30psi with the hose on ( I removed the vacume regulator on the firewall, so it has straight vacume from the manifold) (will that matter?) and it runs fins, but an hour latter its bogging and bucking at wot.....

 

At this point you might want to run a compression test, and leakdown and post your numbers here.

 

I have had my kit on for about a year, it sat all winter then I installed the stock manifold, 68mm Tb , 440's and the map hack. Everything was fine before I did all of this. It is really bothering me, I cant take it............

 

would removing the computer controlled vacume regulator to the fpr mess anything up?


[Modified by nitroice40, 4:01 AM 3/17/2003]

 

Yes

 

I have heard of people running straight vacume, directally from manifold to fpr. They have not had any problems. Is anyone else doing this?

 

I got it running good (I thought). For instance: I was on my way to my friends house for his going away party (ARMY) on friday. I stoped at the gas station, pumped my gas and when I went to start the thing up it would not. After adjusting the Idle controler clockwise a few turns it would start. The hole time I was getting a code 43. So I go on my trip, driving the car everyday with somewhat no problem ( it was running a bit rich with a code 43) and then today again I shut if off and it will not start back up again...... I adjusted the Idle and it started. Runs a bit ruff but I cant figure out whats going on!

This thing is really kicking my as...........

 

did this work?



I am right in pittsburgh and can get you tuned on hondata! get rid of that stuff!

 

MY god man.. REALLY?!?! almost 9 years ago?

 

What is even worse is he is a 2002 member himself... pathetic. Mods need to lock this.

 

Wow zombie thread. Why on earth would anyone be asking if this AFC setup worked out. They where junk when they came out, a step about the FMU. Lets just say in the earlier years we/people used what was around at the time. Fast forward 10 years and we have very good tuning support for pretty much and Honda out there Hondata, Neptune, Crome, AEM are just a few

 

lol

 

Wheres the mods when u need them..??


Mac.. when you going to be mod status?

 

I was just kidding. I know the op, just goes to show how far we came in 9 years!

 

Haha.. I'm sure I'm not worthy enough for that...



Nice try...

I want my 5 minutes back for a bad attempt at internet humor from a time capsule..