I just got around to installing some 440's and the 15$ afc hack. My question is: The job of the hack is to be able to adjust the 5 volt to the ecu. (right?) But when the ecu sees less than 5 it throws a map code, and I am getting a Oxygen content code too.

I am running about 27psi of fuel pressure, with an inline pump that comes with the drag kit. My A/F ratio is between lean and stoch. But It blows black smoke like a mother.

Has anyone had this problem? What shouid I do to fix?
There is two screws on there to adjust, I am not sure which is which...........help.......

 

what two screws to adjust ?

27psi of fuel ? hmm, I dunno about that..since you have 440cc, but still..it's a bit lower than I expected, considering stock 240cc injector idles at 45psi ish

 

1. AFC's cost a bit more than $15 so what are you using instead of the AFC?
2. The AFC adjusts the map voltage the ECU sees, the purpose of the hack is that the ECU will never see MORE voltage that it should, i.e. over 0 PSI, but you should not get a code if you are seeing less than 0 PSI (vacuum)
3. 27 PSI is too low, inline pump should be removed.
4. A/F ratio is being read by what?

 

I got the ghetto afc that some made.
What kinda voltage should I be seeing going to the ecu, I can adjust the afc with a digital meter. Will that work? Or does it go up and down? What about idel?
If I remove the inline, will the stock pump be able to keep up?
A/F ratio is metered with an autometer.

 

I don't know anything about the voltages, never paid attention. You're better off going with an AFC, SMC, etc so you can adjust via %.

Yes, stock will keep up fine at low boost levels. Pretty much after you surpass the ability of the fuel pump, you need to get rid of the rigged up method of fuel management and go with a more accurate method.

The gauge you're using is useless for tuning - it's not going to give any kind of accurate information (obviously, you are serisously rich but you think you're a little lean).

 

how much boost can I get out of the stock pump with the 440's

 

nitroice40,

I think you're talking about the map limiter that you wire inline with the map sensor. The 2 screws are for WOT and idle settings. You use a voltmeter to adjust the two. To adjust the WOT, you turn the ignition to IGN II, and then set the voltage on the yellow wire to about 1.8. Then to tune the idle, you turn the idle screw clockwise until it starts to click. Then you start the car...and if it idles weird, then you turn the screw 2 times counterclockwise, and then use the voltmeter to get the voltage at about .80-.75. Oh yeah, the idle screw is the one closest to the wires.

Hope that helps.

 

Thank you soooooooo much. I just got my car on the road yesterday after all winter of doing body work and my car is running like sheet. Thanks I will try this.
question: I am not sure why they put two adjs on it. I know one if for Idle and the other is wot. But there is only one wire going out to the ecu. Does it know when to switch over to the other setting? and is the yellow wire at 1.8 idle or wot?

 

Yes, there should be one wire coming into the circuit, the orange one...and then the yellow one going to the ecu. The orange wire carries the actual current...while the yellow wire carries the adjusted current. So the ecu doesn't throw a cel and add's fuel according to boost. It know's when to switch between the two. The yellow wire should read 1.8 at WOT. The 1.8 reading is about a -35% of the 2.8 reading that a normal reading would be. But when the car is idling, the reading is out of 1.0 volts....so you want the reading to be about .80. Which is -20% of the 1.0 volts....which is about what the afc hack takes out to idle the larger injectors. You only take out 20% of fuel because the injectors take longer to open up....so they need to stay open longer to get the right amount of fuel.

Hope that helps.

 

Well, I did what you said. It kinda worked better, but when I set the WOT at 1.8 and turned the idle in till it clicked the car would start but at wot it boged really bad and I would have to turn the idle scres out alot to get it to idle. then it still idles ruff but it idles......... Then when the car is running I adjust the WOT (I think to increase voltage)it would be better at wot but still real ruff and then it will not start untill I put it to original settings.

Would I gain anything by putting in 10 ohm resister to make these peak and hold instead of saturated? What kinda fuel pressure should I be looking at? Any other info would be greatly appreciated..Thanks for hooking me up!

 

..................

 

You got RC 440s??

 

No, I got DSM. But I figured they were the same .......NO?

 

Well, this could be your problem....If you got RC 440cc then you do not need resistors as they're saturated injectors.

As you got DSMs you WILL need resistor pack if you want you ECU to live...

 

Cool so what actual one do I need? Will this help my idle and wot problem? Or just to save the ecu? I put them inline with the pulse wire on the injectors, what color is the wire, and if I meter it, it is not the one that reads rms right?

 

I think as u have not wired up your resistors inline with the dsm, you are overfuelling your motor. 1st thing I would do now would be to hook up those resistors individually or with a resistor pack. DO NOT drive the car to prevent any damage to the ecu and motor (if u haven't done so already), until you get those resistors in!! I think this is likely to fix some if not all of your problem...

Good luck.

 

You can put individual resistors on either wire, but most people use the resistor box out of the older hondas. Where you would have to put it on the yellow wire. I'm not sure if the resistors will hel your idle or not, and if you use individual resistors you need 10 watt 10 ohm resistors.

 

what ones do I need? can I get them at raido shack?

 

I already have the older resistor box in my 91 integra (stock one). I thought that was all I needed?
Sorry about that last post you must have posted that while I was writing.

 

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech%5F...sm%5Finjectors/
I found out that I do not need the resistors because I already have a 90-91 box.
But I am wandering if my injectors are sitting a tat to low. I used the stock O rings and they fit flush. Would this cause my problems?

 

Are you sure that all your injectors are working? One of my injectors were a little dirty and it took a little while to get them clean. But that caused my car to run really rough, mainly because it was running on only 3 cylinders. Hold one end of a screwdriver to the injector and the handle end to your ear, and listen to make sure that they're clicking.

I don't think that you're injectors would fit too low. I know my DSM's can't go any deeper and they're working just fine.

Could you tell me something though....With the key to IGN II, what is the voltage that you get on the orange wire?

 

At ING 2 the orange wire is 3.50V and the Yellow is 2.66

 

I think that you might have the map limiter wired up wrong. The orange wire, which is the sensor wire coming from the map sensor...should read between 2.5 - 2.9 volts. If it goes above 3.0 the ecu should throw a cel. The yellow wire, which is the altered sensor wire going to the ecu, should read about 1.8 volts. This is because 1 - (1.8/2.8) = .357. Which is leaning out the injectors about -36%...which is about what people with the afc hack do.

So something is wrong with your wiring.

 

I will recheck it.....What should my fuel pressure be at?

 

ok. all the wires are hooked up right.
black-Green/white
Red-Yellow/red
Yellow-White/Brown to ecu
Orange-White/Brown to map

Now I have Orange at 2.83, and Yellow at 1.8 and fuel press at 39psi with the hose off.

It start, Idles a tad ruff and when I start going the hole car starts bucking and dont want to go. And at Wot it bogs. My A/F ratio reads lean and a almost half stoch. But it sounds rich to me? I am also throwing a code 1 oxygen content and a code 14 IAC.

Please dont give up on me, were almost there..........