AEM EMS warm idle problems.

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Old 05-11-2004, 06:03 AM
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Default AEM EMS warm idle problems.

I upgraded from v.94 to 1.03 last night and got my car to idle pretty good. But when the car warms up it just dies at idle. I never had this problem with my old basemap, the car used to run like stock. What parameters should I change???

Thanks!
Tim
Old 05-11-2004, 07:16 AM
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Default Re: AEM EMS warm idle problems. (MilanoRedLST)

Datalog your idle parameters as you warm your car up till it dies. Should tell you exactly what is happening. ie: your cool-idle table is too low, running too rich/lean ...etc...
Old 05-11-2004, 07:44 AM
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Default Re: AEM EMS warm idle problems. (legendboy)

OKay there is no easy way to explain this so I hope you can follow me. In the version 1.03 software at the top of the screen the little icons click the one for idle this will bring up your idle parameters. The two main ones you are going to be concerned with are Idle target base table and idle% vs target table. The rest of the parameters should be set-up correctly. Okay lets start this the easy way look at the idle target base table make it a flat line lets say 1500 to start. That is now the target idle of the car. The ECU will try to match that as much as possible, but it will need a little help. Now look at your idle. Now look at the other table go to 1500 RPM move the cell accordingly until idle learned value is about 0 or it holds a good idle at 1500. Now once that is set cahnge your target again to lets say 1000. Repest steps again. Do this in a few different RPMS and you should come out with a pretty linear curve. Calculate to make flat and you should be good. Remember to change the idle target table back to normal so you have a high idle at lower coolant temps.
Old 05-11-2004, 08:05 AM
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Default Re: AEM EMS warm idle problems. (Rtype16)

Thanks! I'll try this as soon as I get home from work, or on my lunch break.
Old 05-11-2004, 10:02 AM
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Default Re: AEM EMS warm idle problems. (MilanoRedLST)

Do you have a wideband ??? If so, it might help but is not necessary for idle.

The key is to take off your idle feedback and see what happens. This is on the options box on the idle page. Set Idle Off above and below to zero in both boxes.

You then need to see what happens when you change the values in the Idle % vs target table and the applicable cells in your fuel table. The wideband will tell you whether or not you need to add or subtract fuel. Think of the Idle % vs target table as the air and the fuel table as the fuel. Get these balanced properly and you should be good to go.

I also changed a couple of other things to get my car to idle properly. In the setup section I changed the breakpoints of the maps to be at 500, 750, 1000, 1250 and 1500. This gives the system more points to be tuned from and less for the computer to decide for you. I also never planned to run the car to 10,000 RPM so I dropped my top three boxes to 7700, 8200 and 9000. This freed up those boxes to be used for the idle area.

You also need to make sure that the ignition timing is nearly constant down in the idle area. This prevents hunting a little by keeping the timing the same.

Once I have this all done I go to the advanced idle page and make changes to the Ign vs Idle RPM and Fuel offset vs RPM table. Usually a +5% value at the left side and -5% value on the right side of those charts does the trick. Pull up the chart and press the "s" key and it will bring up the value page. Put in 5 in the leftmost cell and -5 in the rightmost cell and then highlight all of the cells. Right click and select "calculate" and you should have a straight line thru the whole chart. You can do this with any charts in the program.

Your goal is to get the car to idle on its own near the target RPM. I have RC440's in mine idling at 750 RPM like a baby. I also used to have problems with stalling as I took the car out of gear at low RPM. If you tune the car to idle on its own this way you can set the Idle FB at 1200 with a 3 second wait time and a 100 RPM offset and the car should never stall if tuned right.

Anyway, once you have gotten the car to idle on its own put the idle on above and below values back to like 1.5 or so in both boxes. The chart that the previous post mentioned is then valuable to get your target RPM value set. Play around with this and see what it needs to be. Most of the time in the cold regions it should be about 1500 RPM and the lower regions 750 to 1000 RPM. It depends on how well you get it tuned.

Good luck !!
Old 05-11-2004, 04:21 PM
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Default Re: AEM EMS warm idle problems. (brkrnu)

I got the car to idle when warm pretty good, but now I am having problems with starting it...It will stall a few times before it starts. And yes, I do have a wideband.
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